Replacement of the front sway (anti-roll) bar on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance AWD. The front subframe area is tight on Model 3; the sway bar is removed by detaching both end links and the two center bushing brackets, then maneuvering the bar out through the side.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar (anti-roll bar), Model 3 Performance-spec × 1 — OEM Tesla front stabilizer bar — Performance variant (verify by VIN)
• Sway bar center bushings × 2 — OEM bushings sized to bar diameter (replace whenever bar is removed)
• Sway bar end links (recommended replacement) × 2 — OEM front stabilizer links

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key kept away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3 Performance, the low-voltage battery is typically a Li-ion unit located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the rear floor — verify location for your specific build before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the vehicle using Tesla-specified lift points with proper pucks; support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight (~4,050 lb).
8. Remove both front wheels.
9. Remove the front aero/under-tray fasteners and lower the under-tray to access the sway bar and brackets.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and pre-soak fasteners
   Visually inspect both sway bar end links, the two center bushing brackets, and the bar itself for damage. Apply penetrating oil to the end link nuts and the four bracket bolts. Allow it to soak while continuing prep.
2. 2

   Disconnect left sway bar end link from sway bar
   Locate the upper nut where the end link attaches to the sway bar. Hold the link's stud with an Allen/hex key inserted into the end of the shaft to prevent it from spinning, then loosen and remove the nut with a wrench. Separate the link from the sway bar eye.
   ⚠Do not use an impact gun on the end link nut without holding the shaft — the internal ball stud will spin and the nut will not come off; you will need to cut the link.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disconnect right sway bar end link from sway bar
   Repeat the previous step on the passenger side. Once both ends are free, the sway bar will hang on its center bushings only.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the sway bar
   Place a transmission jack or sturdy support under the center of the sway bar before removing the bracket bolts so the bar does not drop.
5. 5

   Remove the two center bushing brackets
   Locate the two D-shaped bushing brackets that clamp the sway bar to the front subframe. Remove the bolts (typically two per bracket). Retain hardware. Lower the brackets and bushings off the bar.
   ℹ️Note the orientation of the bushings (split line direction) and any alignment marks before removal — they must be reinstalled in the same orientation.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Maneuver the sway bar out of the vehicle
   Carefully rotate and pull the sway bar out to one side, working it past the steering rack, lower control arms, and any harness routing. The bar may need to come out at an angle. Do not force it past wiring harnesses or coolant lines.
   ⚠Avoid contact with steering rack boots, ABS wiring, and any coolant lines routed near the front subframe.
7. 7

   Inspect related components
   With the bar out, inspect the bushing pockets on the subframe, the end link mounting eyes for elongation, ball joint boots on the lower control arms, and the steering rack boots. Replace any damaged components before reassembly.
8. 8

   Install new center bushings on the new bar
   Slide the new bushings onto the new sway bar in the correct orientation (split line facing the manufacturer-specified direction — typically toward the front or top, per the OEM bushing). Position them at the factory-marked locations on the bar so they sit centered in the brackets.
   ℹ️Do NOT lubricate the bushing-to-bar surface with petroleum-based grease — use only the manufacturer-specified rubber-safe lubricant if any is required.
9. 9

   Position the sway bar and install center brackets
   Maneuver the new bar into position. Install both bushing brackets and start all bolts by hand. Once all four bolts are threaded, snug them down evenly, then torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect end links to the sway bar
    Reattach both end links to the sway bar eyes. Hold the link shaft with an Allen/hex key and torque the nut to specification on each side. If you removed end links from the strut, torque those connections as well.
    ⚠Replace end links if the boots are torn or the ball studs have any play — they are a common failure point and inexpensive to replace while the area is open.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front under-tray with all original fasteners and clips; missing aero panels reduce range and can cause panel flutter at highway speed.
2. Reinstall both front wheels and snug the lug nuts by hand.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative terminal last).
6. Open the driver's door and allow the vehicle to wake; verify no suspension or stability control faults on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Confirm no Vehicle Hold, Stability Control, or suspension warning messages on the center display after first power-up.
• With the vehicle on the ground, push down firmly on each front corner — the suspension should compress and rebound smoothly with no clunks from the sway bar area.
• Test drive at low speed over a speed bump and through a tight turn; listen for end-link rattles or bushing knock — a clunk over bumps usually indicates an under-torqued bracket bolt or a spinning end link nut.
• Re-check sway bar bracket bolt torque and end link nut torque after the first 100–200 miles, as bushings will settle.
• While the vehicle is on the lift and wheels are off, this is a good opportunity to verify Tesla service intervals: brake fluid (every 2 years on DOT 4), tire rotation (every 6,250 mi), and visually inspect the front drive unit area for any coolant or gear oil seepage — but do NOT open any battery thermal loop or octovalve components.

More procedures for this vehicle