Replacement of a rear sway bar end link on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance AWD. The rear link connects the sway bar to the lower control arm and is accessible from underneath once the rear wheel is removed.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear sway bar end link (manufacturer-specified for Model 3 Performance) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear sway bar link assembly — verify by VIN

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3 Performance the LV battery is typically accessed behind the right rear seat back panel or under the rear floor depending on build — confirm location before starting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to prevent the air/active systems and self-leveling from fighting the lift. (Model 3 has coil springs, but Jack Mode also disables certain alerts.)
7. Loosen the rear lug nuts a quarter turn while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the rear of the vehicle at the factory-marked lift points using approved Tesla puck adapters and support on jack stands. Never lift on the battery case or pinch welds without pucks.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove rear wheel
   Fully remove the rear lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Set it aside on its sidewall, not on the alloy face.
2. 2

   Locate the rear sway bar link
   Identify the end link connecting the rear sway bar to the lower control arm/knuckle. It is a short rod with a ball stud at each end and protective rubber boots. Inspect both boots for tearing and the link for play — replace if damaged.
3. 3

   Clean and pre-soak the fasteners
   Wire-brush road grime off both end nuts. Apply penetrating oil to both threaded studs and let it dwell for several minutes. This reduces the chance of the stud spinning inside the ball joint.
   ⚠Do not use heat near the underbody — the HV battery and harnessing run close by.
4. 4

   Remove the upper sway bar link nut
   Insert an Allen/hex key into the center of the link's ball stud to hold it stationary, then loosen and remove the nut at the sway bar end with a wrench. If the stud spins despite the hex key, grip the stud flats with locking pliers as a last resort (this will destroy the boot — only acceptable if replacing).
5. 5

   Remove the lower sway bar link nut
   Repeat at the lower end where the link attaches to the control arm. Hold the stud with the hex key and back the nut off completely.
6. 6

   Remove the link
   Withdraw the old link from both mounting holes. Inspect the sway bar bushings and bracket while access is open — note any cracked or weeping bushings for future service.
7. 7

   Compare new link to old
   Lay the new link beside the old one. Confirm matching length, stud orientation, and thread size. Tesla has used multiple revisions — installing the wrong link will cause sway bar preload and clunking.
8. 8

   Install new link
   Position the new link with the boots oriented per the old part's installed orientation. Thread the new nuts on both ends by hand to verify clean engagement — never cross-thread into a ball stud.
9. 9

   Torque the sway bar link nuts
   Hold each ball stud with an Allen/hex key and torque the nut to the verified specification. Do this on both ends. If the supplied hardware is a single-piece bolt-style link rather than stud-and-nut, use the single Sway Bar Link torque value instead.
   ⚠Over-torquing will deform the boot and pre-load the joint, causing premature failure.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall wheel
    Mount the rear wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts. Snug them in a star pattern before lowering.

Reassembly

1. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
2. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification.
3. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery.
4. Close all doors, allow the vehicle to wake, and clear any chassis alerts on the touchscreen.
5. Disable Jack Mode if it did not auto-clear.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, push down on the rear corner several times — there should be no clunk or knock from the sway bar area.
• Test drive at low speed over a speed bump or rough pavement, listening for end-link clunk; then at 30-45 mph through a gentle slalom to confirm the sway bar engages without noise.
• Re-inspect the link nuts visually after the test drive to confirm nothing has loosened and the boots are intact.
• Check the touchscreen for any new chassis or stability-control faults — Model 3 will report ABS/ESC sensor issues if a wheel speed harness was disturbed.
• Note: while the vehicle is on stands, this is a good opportunity to verify Tesla's recommended service intervals — brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years, rear drive unit gear oil per Tesla's revised guidance (initial ~12,500 mi, then 25,000-50,000 mi), and tire rotation every 6,250 mi.

More procedures for this vehicle