Replace both front sway bar end links on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. Straightforward suspension job; the lowered Performance ride height and stiffer front bar make link wear more common than on standard Model 3s.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar end link (Model 3 Performance front, left) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front sway bar link for 2024 Model 3 Performance — Performance-spec links differ from standard/LR Model 3
• Front sway bar end link (Model 3 Performance front, right) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front sway bar link for 2024 Model 3 Performance

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place vehicle in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3 Performance the low-voltage battery is typically located under the rear seat or under the floor — refer to architecture notes and confirm location before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels.
7. Loosen front lug nuts slightly while wheels are still on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using rubber pucks, and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.
9. Remove both front wheels.
10. Apply penetrating oil to the upper and lower link nuts and let it soak for several minutes if there is any sign of corrosion.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect both sway bar links
   With the wheels off, inspect each front sway bar end link for torn boots, play in the ball joints, or bent shafts. Confirm replacement is needed and that the new links match the old ones in length and stud orientation. Note the orientation of each link before removal.
2. 2

   Loosen the upper link nut (strut side)
   Place a hex/Allen key into the internal drive on the end of the link stud to hold it from spinning. Using an open-end wrench on the nut, break the upper nut loose. If the stud spins freely and the boot is destroyed, you may need to grip the stud with locking pliers on a non-threaded section as a last resort.
   ⚠Do not damage the threads — a new link is supplied with new nuts, but cross-threading the strut bracket is costly to repair.
3. 3

   Loosen the lower link nut (sway bar side)
   Repeat the same hold-and-loosen technique on the lower stud where the link attaches to the front sway bar. Support the link by hand as the second nut comes free.
4. 4

   Remove the link
   Withdraw the link from the strut bracket and sway bar eye. If the studs are stuck, tap the bracket (not the stud) lightly with a dead-blow or use a ball joint separator sized for the stud. Do not strike aluminum suspension components with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum body and suspension components — avoid steel-hammer impacts.
5. 5

   Repeat for the opposite side
   Perform steps 2–4 on the other front sway bar link. Lay both old links next to the new ones and confirm length, stud size, and boot orientation match before installing.
6. 6

   Install the new links — hand tight
   Insert each new link into the strut bracket and sway bar eye with the orientation matching the original. Thread both nuts on by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Do not fully tighten yet.
7. 7

   Torque the link nuts
   Using a hex key on the internal stud drive to prevent rotation, torque each link nut to specification. The verified spec for the link nut is 55 Nm (41 lb-ft); the verified spec for the sway bar link fastener body is 61 Nm (45 lb-ft). Apply the value that matches the fastener you are tightening per the manufacturer's torque chart. Repeat on the opposite side.
   ⚠Hold the stud with a hex key while torquing — torquing against a spinning stud will give a false reading and an under-tightened joint.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reinstall wheels
   Mount the front wheels and start all lug nuts by hand. Snug them down in a star pattern before lowering.
9. 9

   Lower vehicle and final torque lug nuts
   Lower the vehicle to the ground. Final-torque the lug nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the low-voltage battery.
2. Close the frunk/hood and reinstall any trim removed for battery access.
3. Wake the vehicle and confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen.
4. Allow the vehicle a few minutes to re-initialize systems (TPMS, stability control, etc.) before driving.
5. Remove wheel chocks.

Verification

• Bounce the front of the vehicle and listen for clunks — a properly installed link should be silent.
• Take a short low-speed test drive over uneven pavement and through a parking lot turn; listen for any clunking or rattling from the front suspension.
• Re-check both link nuts for proper torque after the first 100–200 miles, since new ball joint links can settle slightly.
• Confirm no stability control, ABS, or chassis warnings appear on the touchscreen after the test drive.
• If the vehicle pulls or steering feels off-center, an alignment may be warranted — sway bar link replacement does not normally require alignment, but combine with control arm or strut work it would.
• While the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good opportunity to inspect items on Tesla's actual (not marketing) service intervals: brake fluid (replace every 2 years on DOT-spec fluid), cabin air filter (every 2 years), tire wear/rotation (every ~6,250 mi), and front drive unit gear oil if mileage is approaching the 12,500 mi initial / 25,000–50,000 mi interval.

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