steering

Tie Rod Assembly

for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

1.5 h

Tools

Steps

Replacement of an outer tie rod end on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. This job affects steering geometry and requires a four-wheel alignment afterward.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under the vehicle supported only by a jack. Use rated jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points.

⚠️If you see ANY orange cabling near your work area, stop immediately. The HV pack runs along the floor of the Model 3.

⚠Model 3 uses a hybrid steel/aluminum body. Do not strike suspension components or the subframe with a steel hammer — use a brass/dead-blow hammer or a proper puller.

⚠Steering geometry will change after this repair. A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED before returning the vehicle to service. Driving without alignment will rapidly destroy tires and may affect Autopilot calibration.

ℹ️Autopilot/FSD cameras may require recalibration after alignment changes. Monitor the touchscreen for calibration prompts after the first drive.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands (rated for EV weight)Essential

Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential

Tie rod end puller / pickle forkEssential

Metric socket setEssential

Metric open-end/flare wrench setEssential

Hex/Torx bit setEssential

Wire brush and penetrating oil

Calipers or tape measure (to record old tie rod length)Essential

Tesla-approved jack pad pucksEssential

Needle-nose pliers (for cotter pin)Essential

Parts

Outer tie rod end assembly (left or right as applicable) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 (2024) outer tie rod end — refer to VIN-specific catalog
New castle nut cotter pin × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin for tie rod castle nut

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V (or 16V on 2024+ if equipped) low-voltage battery. On Model 3, the 12V is accessed under the front trunk (frunk) frunk liner; some 2024+ builds use a Li-ion 12V/16V — refer to architecture notes.
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Enable Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service > Jack Mode) to disable air-related controls and prevent vehicle wake-up movement during service. Note: Model 3 has coil suspension only, but Jack Mode also disables drive engagement.
Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
Lift the front of the vehicle at the Tesla-specified front jack points using approved pucks. Support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
Before disassembly: turn the steering wheel to expose the tie rod, then count and record the number of exposed threads on the inner tie rod, OR measure the overall tie rod length from a fixed reference. This preserves a 'get-home' toe setting until proper alignment.

Procedure

1
Mark and measure existing tie rod position
With the wheels straight, mark the inner tie rod threads at the lock nut with paint or a thread-count reference. Measure from the tie rod lock nut to a fixed feature on the outer tie rod end body. Record this measurement — you will set the new tie rod end to the same position to allow safe driving to the alignment shop.
2
Loosen the tie rod lock nut
Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench on its flats and loosen the lock nut that secures the outer tie rod end. Do not yet unthread it fully — back it off only enough to free the outer tie rod end when ready.
⚠Apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak if the lock nut is corroded. Forcing a seized nut can twist or damage the inner tie rod / steering rack boot.
3
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut at the steering knuckle
Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud where it passes through the steering knuckle. Remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with a new one on reassembly.
4
Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
Use a proper tie rod end puller to press the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. A pickle fork may be used as a last resort but will destroy the boot — only acceptable if replacing the tie rod end. Do not strike the knuckle directly with a hammer.
⚠Aluminum/steel hybrid suspension components — avoid hammer impact. Use a puller.
5
Count rotations and remove the outer tie rod end
While counting full rotations, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record the rotation count — the new tie rod end must be installed using the same number of turns to preserve approximate toe.
6
Inspect inner tie rod and rack boot
Inspect the inner tie rod ball socket for play and the steering rack boot for tears, cracks, or trapped grease leakage. If the inner tie rod has any radial play or the boot is compromised, replacement is required and is beyond the scope of this procedure.
7
Install the new outer tie rod end
Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod using the exact same rotation count recorded in Step 5. Verify the measurement from Step 1 matches. This is a temporary setting only — final toe must be set during alignment.
8
Insert tie rod stud into steering knuckle
Seat the tapered tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle. Hand-thread the castle nut onto the stud.
9
Torque the castle nut and install new cotter pin
Torque the castle nut to specification, then continue to advance (never back off) the nut to the next slot that aligns with the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.
⚠️If the cotter pin hole does not align before reaching torque, advance the nut — do not loosen it. A loose castle nut can allow steering separation.
Torque spec
Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10
Snug the tie rod lock nut (final torque after alignment)
Snug the inner tie rod lock nut against the new outer tie rod end so the assembly cannot rotate during the drive to the alignment shop. Final torque must be applied AFTER alignment.
⚠Do NOT apply final lock nut torque now — the alignment technician will adjust toe and then torque the lock nut.

Reassembly

Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-start all lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle so the wheel just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Torque wheel lug nuts to specification.
Lower fully and remove jack stands.
Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery.
Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
Drive SLOWLY and DIRECTLY to an alignment shop — do not drive at highway speed until alignment is complete.
After alignment, have the technician torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to specification.

Verification

After alignment: confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight on a level road.
Check that the touchscreen shows no steering, EPAS, or stability control faults.
If Autopilot/FSD is equipped, the vehicle may prompt for camera recalibration on the touchscreen — allow it to complete (this requires driving for a period on well-marked roads).
Verify the new cotter pin is installed and legs are bent — visually inspect from below.
Verify Tie Rod Lock Nut was torqued AFTER alignment (alignment shop should confirm in writing).
Recheck wheel lug nut torque after the first 50–100 miles of driving — Tesla recommends a re-torque after wheel service.
Note: Tesla's 'no scheduled maintenance' claim is marketing — log this repair in your service record. Inspect tie rod ends, ball joints, and control arm bushings annually given the high curb weight and instant-torque wear characteristics of the Model 3 Performance.