Replacement of an inner tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance. The inner tie rod threads into the steering rack and requires removing the outer tie rod end and steering boot to access; a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after installation.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod assembly (driver or passenger side as applicable) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 inner tie rod, 2024 Performance AWD
• Steering rack boot × 1 — OEM-equivalent rack boot for Model 3
• Steering rack boot clamps (inner and outer) × 1 — OEM-equivalent boot clamp set
• Cotter pin for outer tie rod castle nut × 1 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model 3 Performance the 12V (lithium) battery is typically located under the rear cargo floor or behind the right rear seat back panel — verify location before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the wheel is still on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved jack points and support securely on jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Center the steering wheel and, if possible, lock the steering by reconnecting briefly only to confirm centered position, then re-disconnect 12V. Alternatively, mark the steering wheel and rack centered position before lifting.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document outer tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, measure and record the exposed thread length between the outer tie rod end and the inner tie rod jam (lock) nut. Mark the lock nut position on the inner tie rod shaft with a paint marker. This preserves a baseline toe setting so the vehicle is drivable to an alignment shop.
2. 2

   Separate outer tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut and discard it. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Using a tie rod puller (preferred over a pickle fork to preserve the boot for reuse), separate the outer tie rod taper from the steering knuckle.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a steel hammer. Use a puller.
3. 3

   Loosen the jam nut and remove the outer tie rod end
   Loosen the inner tie rod jam (lock) nut and count turns as you unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record the number of turns to aid in re-installation at approximately the same toe setting.
4. 4

   Remove the steering rack boot
   Cut or release the inner and outer boot clamps and slide the rack boot off the inner tie rod. Inspect the boot — replacement is recommended any time it is disturbed.
   ⚠Inspect the rack housing and inner tie rod for grease contamination, water intrusion, or rust. Any such finding warrants further inspection of the rack itself before reassembly.
5. 5

   Remove the inner tie rod from the steering rack
   Hold the steering rack stationary (do not let it rotate or extend further) and unthread the inner tie rod from the rack using an inner tie rod removal tool sized to the assembly. The inner tie rod typically has flats or a hex near its base — use the correct crowfoot or dedicated inner tie rod socket to avoid deforming the rack end.
   ⚠️Do not allow the steering rack shaft to rotate or pull outward forcefully. Damaging the rack end means rack replacement, which can affect the electric power steering assembly and require Tesla Toolbox calibration.
6. 6

   Install the new inner tie rod
   Apply thread-locker only if specified by the new inner tie rod manufacturer. Thread the new inner tie rod into the rack by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. (The verified torque list does not contain a specific value for the inner tie rod-to-rack joint; do not guess.)
   ⚠The inner tie rod-to-rack torque is critical for steering integrity. If you do not have the verified spec, stop and obtain it before proceeding.
7. 7

   Install new rack boot and clamps
   Slide the new steering rack boot over the inner tie rod and seat it into the grooves on both the rack housing and the inner tie rod. Install new clamps (crimp or band style as supplied) ensuring the boot is not twisted and can flex freely with steering travel.
8. 8

   Install the jam nut and outer tie rod end
   Thread the jam (lock) nut onto the new inner tie rod, then thread the outer tie rod end on by the same number of turns recorded in Step 3, returning the jam nut to the marked position. Do not final-torque the lock nut yet — it is torqued only after alignment.
9. 9

   Reattach outer tie rod end to steering knuckle
   Insert the outer tie rod taper into the steering knuckle. Install a new castle nut and torque it, then install a new cotter pin. If the cotter pin slot does not align, tighten further (never back off) to the next slot.
   ⚠Always use a new cotter pin. Reusing a cotter pin can lead to nut backoff and steering separation.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel.
2. Lower the vehicle until the wheels just contact the ground, then torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) — see torque ref Wheel Lug Nuts.
3. Lower the vehicle fully.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Close all doors and allow the vehicle to fully wake. Check for steering or stability-related warnings on the center display.
6. Drive carefully and at low speed only to an alignment rack — toe is unset and tire wear will accumulate quickly.
7. Have a four-wheel alignment performed.
8. After alignment, hold the outer tie rod stationary and torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut (jam nut) to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).

Verification

• Confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight on a flat road; if off-center, the alignment was not finalized correctly.
• Verify no clunking, looseness, or play when rocking the steering at standstill — tie rod ends should have zero radial play.
• Inspect the new rack boot at full lock both directions to confirm it is not pinched, twisted, or contacting suspension components.
• Confirm no steering, EPS, or stability control fault messages on the Model 3 center display after a short test drive.
• Re-check wheel lug nut torque (136 Nm / 100 lb-ft) after approximately 50 miles, per Tesla guidance.
• Note: This job does not affect Tesla's brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin filter (every 2 years), or drive unit fluid intervals, but it is a good opportunity to inspect the front suspension bushings, ball joints, and front brake pads while the wheel is off.

More procedures for this vehicle