Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. This is a chassis-only job — no HV systems involved — but a four-wheel alignment is mandatory afterward.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (Model 3 2024, side-specific if applicable) × 1 — Tesla OEM or equivalent — verify left/right per vehicle
• Cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — Per Tesla service spec

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V on 2024+ if equipped) low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V/Li-ion battery is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the floor — refer to architecture notes.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode via the touchscreen (or Jack Mode for lifting) before raising the vehicle to disable air-suspension/leveling logic — note: Model 3 uses coil springs only, but Service Mode still prevents alarms during wheel-off work.
7. Loosen the front lug nuts a half turn while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support securely on jack stands. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document existing tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, mark the inner tie rod threads at the lock nut with a paint marker, OR measure the exposed thread length with calipers. This gives a starting toe reference and minimizes alignment correction. Photograph the assembly for reference.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut (jam nut)
   Hold the outer tie rod end stationary with a wrench on its flats and break loose the lock nut on the inner tie rod shaft. Do not fully remove it yet — back it off just enough so the outer end can be unthreaded later. Apply penetrating oil if seized.
   ⚠Do not twist the inner tie rod / rack boot — holding the outer flats while loosening prevents damage to the rack bellows.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud, then unscrew the castle nut from the tapered stud where it passes through the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin.
4. 4

   Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Use a screw-type ball joint separator (preferred) to press the tapered stud out of the knuckle. A pickle fork can be used but may damage the boot — only acceptable if the part is being discarded. Do NOT hammer the aluminum knuckle directly.
   ⚠The Model 3 front knuckle is aluminum. Striking it directly can crack it — a knuckle replacement is far more expensive than the tie rod end.
5. 5

   Count turns and unthread the outer tie rod end
   Counting and recording the exact number of revolutions, unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. This count is your best chance at preserving toe before the alignment.
6. 6

   Inspect the inner tie rod and boot
   With the outer removed, inspect the inner tie rod ball socket for play (grasp and shake — there should be no detectable movement) and inspect the rack boot for tears or grease leakage. Address any issues now.
7. 7

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft the same number of turns recorded in Step 5. Snug the lock nut by hand against the new tie rod end (final torque after alignment).
8. 8

   Insert stud into knuckle and torque castle nut
   Seat the tapered stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. If the cotter pin slot does not align, tighten further (never loosen) until the next slot aligns. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs.
   ⚠️Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin slot — only tighten further. A loose castle nut can cause loss of steering.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Preliminary lock nut snug
   Snug the inner tie rod lock nut against the outer tie rod end, but do NOT apply final torque yet — final torque is applied only after the alignment shop sets toe.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V/Li-ion low-voltage battery.
5. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
6. Power the vehicle on and verify no chassis or steering faults are displayed.
7. Drive SLOWLY and directly to an alignment shop — do not drive at highway speed with un-aligned steering.
8. After the alignment is set, torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to specification while holding the outer tie rod end flats stationary.

Verification

• After alignment, confirm the steering wheel is centered when driving straight on a flat road.
• Listen for clunks over bumps or during slow parking-lot turns — indicates loose castle nut or improperly seated taper.
• Re-inspect the cotter pin is fully bent and captive in the castle nut slot.
• Verify the dust boot on the new tie rod end is intact and seated.
• Confirm no Vehicle Dynamics or steering-related alerts on the touchscreen.
• After 100-200 miles, re-check the lock nut torque — refer to torque spec: Tie Rod Lock Nut.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 mi — Performance models with staggered/non-staggered setups wear front tires quickly, especially after any toe change.

More procedures for this vehicle