steering
Tie Rods - Both Sides
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
10
Steps
10
Replacement of both outer tie rod ends on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. This is a wear-item job on the steering rack outer joints; inner tie rods are not addressed here. A four-wheel alignment is mandatory afterward.
Warnings
⚠️This is a 2024 Model 3 Performance — high-voltage battery is floor-mounted directly under the cabin. Use ONLY Tesla-designated jack points / pucks. Lifting on the battery case or pinch welds will damage the HV pack and can cause thermal events.
⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. If you encounter an orange cable while working under the vehicle, STOP.
⚠Steering and suspension are safety-critical. A loose tie rod end or missing cotter pin can cause sudden loss of steering. Torque values must be verified, not estimated.
⚠A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after this job. Driving extended distances without alignment will destroy front tires quickly — Model 3 Performance already wears tires aggressively.
ℹ️The 2024 Model 3 (Highland refresh) has revised front suspension geometry vs. earlier Model 3. Confirm replacement tie rod ends are spec'd for 2024 by VIN, not generic 'Model 3 2017–2023'.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for EV curb weight (~4,000+ lb)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (to protect battery case / pinch welds)Essential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end puller / pickle fork (puller preferred to preserve boot)Essential
Open-end wrench set (metric) for tie rod flats and lock nutEssential
Calipers or tape measure (to record tie rod thread length before removal)Essential
Needle-nose pliers / cotter pin toolEssential
Penetrating oil
Paint pen or marker (to mark thread reference)
Parts
- Outer tie rod end assembly (Model 3 Performance, 2024) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified outer tie rod end for 2024 Model 3 Performance — match by VIN
- Cotter pin for tie rod castle nut × 2 — OEM-spec cotter pin (do not reuse)
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (lithium) is typically located under the front trunk floor area or behind the rear seat depending on build — refer to architecture notes and verify before disconnecting.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen if available so the air ride / self-leveling logic is disabled (note: 2024 Model 3 is coil-sprung but jack mode still disables certain alerts).
- Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle on Tesla-approved lift points and support on jack stands. Remove both front wheels.
- Turn the steering wheel to expose each tie rod end as needed during the job.
Procedure
- 1Document existing tie rod positionBefore loosening anything, count and record the number of exposed threads between the inner tie rod jam (lock) nut and the outer tie rod end on each side. Optionally mark the threads with a paint pen. This preserves a near-baseline toe setting until the alignment shop dials it in, and prevents driving with grossly misaligned toe.
- 2Loosen the inner tie rod jam (lock) nutHold the inner tie rod shaft with an open-end wrench on its flats. Loosen the jam nut against the outer tie rod end. Do NOT spin the inner tie rod itself — rotating the inner shaft can damage the inner ball joint or its boot.⚠Always counter-hold the inner tie rod flats. Never let the inner shaft rotate freely.
- 3Remove cotter pin and castle nut at the steering knuckleStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — it must not be reused. Remove the castle nut.
- 4Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckleUse a proper tie rod end puller to press the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle fork unless the boot is already being replaced — pickle forks tear boots. Do NOT strike the aluminum knuckle with a hammer.⚠Front knuckle / suspension components on Model 3 are aluminum. Do not hammer on them — use a puller.
- 5Unthread the outer tie rod endCounting and recording the exact number of turns it takes to unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Record this number; you will use it to install the new tie rod end at the same starting position.
- 6Install the new outer tie rod endThread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft using the same number of turns recorded in Step 5. The jam nut should be approximately at the recorded thread count from Step 1. Snug the jam nut by hand for now — final torque happens after alignment.
- 7Insert the tie rod stud into the steering knuckleSeat the tapered stud of the new tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Ensure the taper is fully seated and not cocked.
- 8Install and torque the castle nutInstall the castle nut on the tie rod end stud. Torque to specification, then advance (do not back off) to the next slot that aligns with the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.⚠️Always tighten further to align the cotter pin slot — never loosen. Never reuse a cotter pin.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 9Repeat for the opposite sidePerform Steps 1–8 on the other front tie rod end. Match the recorded thread count so initial toe is symmetric and the vehicle is drivable to the alignment rack.
- 10Preliminary jam nut snugWith both tie rod ends installed and stud nuts torqued, lightly snug the inner-to-outer jam nuts. Final torque on the lock nut is performed AFTER the alignment is set, not now.ℹ️Final lock nut torque (Tie Rod Lock Nut) is applied after alignment — not at this step.
Reassembly
- Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Final-torque the front wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- Close all doors, allow the vehicle to wake, and clear any chassis / steering alerts on the touchscreen.
- Drive carefully and at low speed directly to an alignment shop — do not drive long distances on an unaligned car.
Verification
- Visually confirm both new cotter pins are installed and bent over, and both castle nuts are fully seated.
- Confirm both jam nuts are present (final torque happens after alignment).
- Confirm steering wheel rotates smoothly lock-to-lock with no binding or grinding (vehicle off the ground, ignition awake).
- Perform a four-wheel alignment on a Tesla-capable rack using current Tesla alignment specs for 2024 Model 3 Performance. After alignment is set, torque the inner tie rod jam (lock) nut to the Tie Rod Lock Nut spec while counter-holding the inner shaft flats.
- After alignment, test drive: confirm the steering wheel is centered when driving straight, no pulling, no clunks over bumps, and no unusual tire scrub.
- Re-check lug nut torque after ~50 miles.
- Note: This is a wear/repair job, not a Tesla service-interval item. However, while the front end is apart, it is a good time to inspect outer CV boots, lower control arm ball joints, and brake pad thickness, and to verify cabin air filter and brake fluid intervals (Tesla recommends brake fluid every 2 years and cabin filter every 2 years).