Replacement of the rear trailing arm (fore link) bushing on a 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD. The bushing is pressed into the chassis-side mount of the trailing arm and requires removal of the arm from the vehicle for proper press service.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear trailing arm bushing (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 rear trailing arm bushing — refer to current Tesla parts catalog
• Trailing arm-to-chassis bolt (replace if single-use) × 1 — OEM specification — inspect for stretch/TTY designation

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind the right rear seat back panel on most 2024 Model 3 — some 2024+ units use a lithium 12V under the floor; consult the in-vehicle service mode or owner documentation to confirm).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport/Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting (Service > Jack Mode) to disable auto-leveling and parking brake auto-engagement.
7. Chock the front wheels.
8. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
9. Lift the rear of the vehicle ONLY at the manufacturer-specified jack points using approved pucks. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's curb weight (Model 3 Performance is approximately 1,840 kg / 4,054 lb).
10. Remove the affected rear wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document factory alignment reference
   Use a paint marker to mark the position of any eccentric/cam bolts on the rear suspension before disturbing fasteners. While a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job, factory marks help during reassembly to get the vehicle drivable to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle/hub assembly
   Place a floor jack with a rubber pad under the rear knuckle to support its weight. This prevents the knuckle from dropping and stressing the brake line, parking brake cable, ABS sensor wiring, and other links when the trailing arm is disconnected.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or ABS wiring — damage will result.
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS sensor and parking brake harness clips (if routed through trailing arm)
   Inspect the trailing arm for any wiring harness clips or brake/parking brake cable routing brackets. Release these clips carefully to free the wiring before removing the arm. Note the routing path for reassembly.
4. 4

   Remove trailing arm-to-knuckle fastener
   Remove the bolt and nut securing the outboard end of the trailing arm to the rear knuckle. Counter-hold the bolt head with a wrench while removing the nut. Penetrating oil may help if the fastener is corroded.
5. 5

   Remove trailing arm-to-chassis (front) fastener
   Locate the forward (chassis-side) mount of the trailing arm where it bolts to the body bracket. Support the trailing arm, then remove the through-bolt and nut. This bolt is the primary load-bearing fastener for the bushing being serviced.
   ⚠Note the orientation of any washers, spacers, or eccentric hardware before removal.
6. 6

   Remove the trailing arm from the vehicle
   With both ends disconnected, maneuver the trailing arm down and out from under the vehicle. Inspect the arm itself for cracks, corrosion, or deformation — if present, replace the arm rather than just the bushing.
7. 7

   Press out the old bushing
   Secure the trailing arm in a hydraulic press with appropriate receiver cups supporting the arm housing (NOT the flange). Using a driver sized to the bushing outer shell, press the old bushing out in the correct direction. Do not press on the rubber center — press only on the steel outer shell.
   ⚠Aluminum components can crack under uneven press loads. Ensure cups fully support the arm body before applying pressure.
8. 8

   Inspect and clean bushing bore
   Clean the bushing bore in the trailing arm with a wire brush and solvent. Inspect for ovaling, corrosion pitting, or cracks. If the bore is damaged, the arm must be replaced.
9. 9

   Press in new bushing
   Align the new bushing per any indexing marks on the bushing flange (if present — many suspension bushings are voided/indexed for proper load orientation). Use a driver that contacts only the outer steel shell. Press in straight and square until fully seated to the manufacturer-specified depth or until the flange contacts the arm.
   ⚠Many trailing arm bushings are directional. Installing one rotated incorrectly will cause premature failure and altered ride dynamics. Verify correct orientation before pressing.
10. 10

    Reinstall trailing arm to vehicle
    Lift the trailing arm into position. Hand-thread the chassis-side bolt and the knuckle-side bolt with new hardware where required. Do NOT final-torque yet — leave both fasteners snug only.
11. 11

    Reconnect harness and reinstall wheel
    Re-clip any ABS or parking brake wiring to the trailing arm in its original routing. Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts.
12. 12

    Lower vehicle to ride height before final torque
    Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at curb (ride) height with full vehicle weight on the wheels. This is critical — torquing the bushing fastener while the suspension is drooping pre-loads the bushing in twist and will cause it to fail in months. Use drive-on ramps or set the vehicle on the ground.
    ⚠Final torque MUST be applied with suspension at ride height. This is non-negotiable for bushing longevity.
13. 13

    Final torque trailing arm fasteners
    With the vehicle at ride height, final torque the trailing arm chassis-side and knuckle-side fasteners to the verified Control Arm Bolt specification. For any fastener not listed in the verified torque table, torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final torque wheel lug nuts
    Torque the rear wheel lug nuts in a star (cross) pattern to the verified specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm all wiring harness clips, brake hose, and parking brake cable are properly routed and secured — not pinched or stretched.
2. Reconnect the 12V battery (negative terminal last).
3. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
4. Allow vehicle to power up and check for any chassis or stability control fault messages on the touchscreen.
5. Re-pair tire pressure sensors if any TPMS warning appears (drive cycle usually sufficient on Model 3).

Verification

• Perform a four-wheel alignment — mandatory after any rear suspension link service. Rear toe and camber on Model 3 Performance are alignment-sensitive.
• Test drive at low speed in a safe area: listen for clunks over bumps, which would indicate a loose fastener or improperly seated bushing.
• Test drive at highway speed: confirm no vibration, no pull, and no rear-end wandering.
• After 100-200 miles, re-inspect the bushing fastener to confirm it has not loosened and re-check torque.
• Note: Tesla does not include trailing arm bushings in any scheduled service interval, but rear suspension components should be inspected anytime tires are rotated (every 6,250 mi per Tesla recommendation) for premature wear caused by the vehicle's heavy curb weight and instant torque.

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