suspension
Upper Control Arm - Front
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
10
Steps
11
Replacement of a front upper control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance AWD. The upper arm bolts to the strut tower area and connects to the steering knuckle via a tapered ball joint stud.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a Tesla supported only by a jack. The vehicle's ~4,000 lb curb weight will crush you. Always use rated jack stands at OEM lift points.
⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. The HV battery is floor-mounted on the Model 3 — keep all jacks and stands at the manufacturer-specified pinch-weld lift points only.
⚠The Model 3 uses a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike suspension brackets or body structure with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift if persuasion is needed.
⚠Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts must be done with the suspension loaded at ride height. Torquing while drooping will pre-load the bushings and shorten their life.
ℹ️An alignment is required after replacing any front control arm. Do not return the vehicle to road use without a four-wheel alignment.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (including deep sockets)Essential
Metric combination wrenchesEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shaft, if disturbed)
Ball joint separator (pickle fork or tie-rod style press)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / diagonal cuttersEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad (puck) for lift pointsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Breaker bar
Parts
- Front upper control arm assembly (Model 3 Performance, 2024) × 1 — Tesla OEM front upper control arm — refer to VIN-specific catalog
- Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — OEM-specified cotter pin (do not reuse)
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model 3, the 12V (lithium) is located per the architecture notes — typically accessed under the rear seat / floor area; follow the manufacturer-specified disconnect procedure.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting to disable suspension self-leveling logic and prevent the car from attempting to power down drive systems unexpectedly.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle at the OEM-specified pinch-weld lift points using a jack pad/puck, and support on rated jack stands.
- Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and documentVisually inspect the upper control arm, ball joint boot, bushings, and surrounding bracket. Note the orientation and routing of any wheel-speed sensor or brake hose retainers attached to or near the arm. Photograph for reference.
- 2Relieve any auxiliary attachmentsIf the upper arm has any clip-on wiring or hose retainers, gently release them. Do not stretch ABS sensor wiring or brake hoses.
- 3Remove the ball joint cotter pinStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut at the steering knuckle. Discard — a new cotter pin is required on reassembly.⚠Never reuse a cotter pin on a critical fastener like a ball joint.
- 4Loosen the ball joint nutLoosen but do not fully remove the upper ball joint castle nut. Leave it threaded on a few turns to capture the knuckle when the taper breaks free.
- 5Separate the ball joint from the knuckleUse a proper ball joint separator tool to break the tapered stud free from the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork tools if you intend to reuse the boot on any related component. Once free, support the knuckle so it does not fall outward and stress the brake hose, ABS sensor wiring, or CV axle.⚠Do not let the knuckle/hub assembly hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
- 6Remove the ball joint nutWith the taper broken free, fully remove the castle nut and lift the ball joint stud out of the knuckle.
- 7Remove the upper control arm pivot boltsSupport the control arm by hand. Remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) securing the upper control arm to the chassis bracket. Note bolt orientation and any alignment cams or markings before removal.ℹ️If the bracket uses eccentric/cam alignment hardware, mark its position before disassembly so the alignment is in the ballpark for drive-on to the alignment rack.
- 8Remove the upper control armWithdraw the upper control arm from the vehicle. Compare the new arm side-by-side with the old to confirm correct part, bushing orientation, and ball joint stud taper.
- 9Install the new upper control arm (loose-fit)Position the new upper control arm at the chassis bracket and start the pivot bolt(s) by hand. Do not torque yet — bushing fasteners must be final-torqued at ride height.
- 10Reconnect the ball joint to the knuckleInsert the upper ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification, then continue tightening only as needed to align the castellation with the cotter pin hole — never back off to align. Install a new cotter pin and bend it per OEM practice.⚠Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin slot — never loosen below spec.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 11Reattach auxiliary clipsReseat any wiring or hose retainers that were released. Confirm the ABS sensor wire and brake hose route without strain through full steering and suspension travel.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle so the full weight rests on the wheels at normal ride height.
- With the suspension loaded, final-torque the upper control arm pivot bolt(s) to the Control Arm Bolts specification (165 Nm / 122 lb-ft).
- Torque the wheel lug nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim removed for access.
- Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
- Drive the vehicle a short distance to a four-wheel alignment rack — alignment is mandatory after upper control arm replacement.
Verification
- Confirm new cotter pin is fully seated and bent — pull-test the ball joint nut visually.
- With wheel back on the ground, bounce the front corner — listen for clunks or knocking that would indicate a loose pivot bolt or unseated ball joint.
- Steer lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary on the ground — there should be no binding, popping, or contact between the new arm and the strut/spring.
- Verify on the alignment rack: caster, camber, and toe within Tesla Model 3 Performance spec. Save the printout.
- Test drive at low speed first, then highway: check for pulling, steering wheel off-center, and any new noise over bumps.
- Recheck pivot bolt and ball joint nut torque after the first 100–200 miles as a best practice on safety-critical fasteners.
- While the front end is apart, this is a good opportunity to verify brake fluid service interval (Tesla recommends every 2 years) and tire rotation interval (every ~6,250 mi).