Replacement of an upper control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance. The Model 3 rear suspension uses multiple upper links (camber and toe); identify which link is being replaced before ordering parts. Final torque must be set with the suspension loaded at ride height.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper control arm assembly (specify camber link or toe link as applicable) × 1 — Tesla OEM Model 3 rear upper link — confirm by VIN
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin matching ball joint stud

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically accessed behind the right rear seat back panel or under the floor depending on build — refer to architecture notes and confirm by VIN before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode if available, or at minimum disable Sentry Mode and any motion-triggered features before lifting.
7. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified lift points only and support on jack stands. Never place a jack under the HV battery case.
9. Remove the road wheel on the affected corner.
10. Confirm visually which upper link is being replaced and inspect adjacent bushings, ball joints, and the strut for collateral wear.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the knuckle/upright
   Place a secondary jack with a soft pad under the lower control arm or knuckle to support the suspension. This prevents the assembly from dropping when the upper arm is disconnected and avoids stressing the brake hose, ABS line, and any wiring.
2. 2

   Document factory alignment marks
   Before loosening anything, mark the position of any eccentric/cam bolts and inboard bracket position with a paint pen. This preserves a baseline alignment for the drive to the alignment shop.
3. 3

   Remove the ball joint cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — a new one is required on reassembly.
   ⚠Never reuse a cotter pin on a critical chassis fastener.
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint from the knuckle
   Use the manufacturer-specified ball joint separator or a pickle fork as appropriate. Avoid striking aluminum knuckle features directly. Once free, swing the arm clear of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS sensor wiring.
5. 5

   Remove the inboard control arm bolt
   Support the arm by hand, then remove the inboard pivot bolt securing the upper control arm to the chassis/subframe bracket. Note bolt orientation and any washers or eccentric hardware. Withdraw the bolt and remove the arm from the vehicle.
6. 6

   Inspect mounting points and hardware
   Inspect the inboard bracket, bushing bore, and ball joint taper in the knuckle for elongation, corrosion, or cracking. Inspect the bolt for stretching or thread damage. Replace hardware per OEM guidance if any doubt exists.
7. 7

   Install the new upper control arm
   Position the new arm into the inboard bracket and install the pivot bolt finger-tight in the original orientation. Seat the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper and install the castle nut finger-tight. Do not final-torque yet.
8. 8

   Snug the ball joint and install new cotter pin
   Torque the ball joint castle nut to specification, then advance (never back off) to align the next slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to retain.
   ⚠If the slot is past spec, advance — do not loosen — to align the cotter pin hole.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reload suspension to ride height
   Lower the vehicle until the wheel/tire is supporting the vehicle weight at normal ride height (or use a suspension loading jack under the hub to simulate ride height with stands still in place). The bushing must be at neutral position before final torque.
   ⚠Torquing the inboard bolt with the suspension drooping will pre-twist the bushing and shorten its life dramatically.
10. 10

    Final-torque the inboard control arm bolt
    With the suspension at ride height, torque the inboard pivot bolt to specification.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the road wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification (Wheel Lug Nuts).
4. Reconnect the low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim removed for access.
5. Allow the vehicle to wake fully; clear any chassis/ABS faults that may have set during the LV disconnect.

Verification

• Visually confirm the new cotter pin is installed and bent on the ball joint stud.
• Confirm no brake hose, ABS sensor lead, or wiring harness is twisted or contacting the new arm through full steering and suspension travel.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps and confirm the steering wheel is centered and tracks straight.
• Drive the vehicle directly to a four-wheel alignment — Model 3 alignment is critical to tire life given instant torque and curb weight; do not skip.
• Recheck lug nut torque after the first 50–100 miles per Tesla guidance.
• While the vehicle is in the air, take advantage of the access to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years), inspect rear drive unit gear oil service status (initial 12,500 mi service is recommended by Tesla, contrary to early 'lifetime' claims), and verify tire rotation interval (every ~6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle