Replace a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance. The front hub assembly must be removed from the knuckle and the bearing pressed out and replaced — this requires a hydraulic press or in-vehicle bearing puller kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (press-in type, OEM or OEM-equivalent for Model 3 Performance) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front wheel bearing for 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD
• Axle nut (single-use) and/or new cotter pin or stake nut × 1 — OEM-specified axle retention hardware
• ABS sensor (replace if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM front ABS/wheel speed sensor

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the LV battery may be located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the floor depending on build — confirm location before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport/Jack mode via the touchscreen before disconnecting the LV battery, so the air suspension (N/A on Model 3 — coil only) and self-leveling routines do not fight you. (Model 3 is coil-sprung; this step is informational.)
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Loosen the front axle nut while the wheel is on the ground and the brakes are applied (it is torqued to 250 Nm and will not break free easily off the ground).
9. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-designated jack points and support on rated jack stands. Never place a jack under the HV pack.
10. Remove the front wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS sensor on the front knuckle. Disconnect its electrical connector and release the harness from any retaining clips on the strut and knuckle. Remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor from the knuckle. If the sensor is seized, work it free gently — do not pry against the tip or you will destroy it.
   ⚠ABS sensors commonly seize in the knuckle bore. If the sensor breaks during removal, plan to install a new one.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts and lift the caliper and bracket off as an assembly. Hang it from the coil spring or strut with a hanger or bungee — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip/screw if present and pull the rotor off the hub.
   ⚠Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
3. 3

   Remove the front axle nut
   With the axle nut already loosened from prep, remove it fully. Discard the nut and any cotter pin or staking — these are single-use. Note the orientation of any washer behind the nut.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate steering and suspension links from the knuckle (as required by tool method)
   Depending on whether you are using an in-vehicle bearing press or removing the knuckle for shop-press service, separate the outer tie rod end from the knuckle and, if removing the knuckle, the upper ball joint or strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt. Mark camber bolt position before loosening to preserve alignment. Torque all reused fasteners to OEM specification on reassembly — refer to Tesla Service Manual for values not listed here.
   ⚠Mark camber/eccentric bolt orientation before loosening so alignment can be approximately restored. A four-wheel alignment is still required after this job.
5. 5

   Push the half-shaft out of the hub
   Using a soft-faced hammer or, preferably, a hub puller, push the splined end of the front half-shaft out of the hub bore. If it is seized in the hub splines, apply penetrating oil and use the puller — do not strike the threaded end of the axle directly without a thread protector. Once free, support the half-shaft horizontally with wire so the inner CV joint is not stressed.
   ⚠Never let the half-shaft hang. Inner CV joint plunge limits are short and the joint will separate or be damaged.
6. 6

   Remove the hub assembly from the knuckle
   Remove the hub flange retaining bolts from the back of the knuckle. With the bolts out, the hub flange can be drawn out of the bearing inner race. The bearing outer race remains pressed in the knuckle. If the inner race stays on the hub flange (common), it must be cut off with a bearing splitter — do not reuse.
   ⚠If the inner race remains on the hub, use a bearing splitter — do not heat the hub flange with a torch as this can affect the steel temper.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Press out the old bearing
   Using either an in-vehicle bearing press tool with the correct cups for this knuckle bore, or a hydraulic shop press with the knuckle removed, press the old bearing out of the knuckle. Apply press force only on the bearing outer race during removal. Note any retaining clip or shoulder direction so the new bearing is installed in the same orientation.
   ⚠Tesla front knuckles are aluminum on many trims — confirm material before applying heat. Excessive press force on misaligned tooling will crack the knuckle bore.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the knuckle bore
   Wire-brush the knuckle bore clean. Inspect for scoring, ovality, or cracks. A damaged bore means the knuckle must be replaced — the bore is not separately serviceable. Apply a light film of clean oil (not grease) to the bore before pressing in the new bearing.
9. 9

   Press in the new bearing
   Install the new bearing squared to the bore. Press only on the OUTER race during installation — pressing on the inner race will destroy the new bearing immediately. Press until the bearing is fully seated against the shoulder or until the retaining clip groove is exposed; install the retaining clip if equipped.
   ⚠️Pressing on the inner race ruins the new bearing. Always use a press cup that contacts only the outer race for installation.
10. 10

    Install the hub flange into the new bearing
    Support the bearing inner race from the back side with the proper press cup, and press the hub flange through the inner race. Do NOT press the hub in by tightening the axle nut — this loads the bearing incorrectly and can damage it.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the hub assembly to the knuckle (if knuckle was removed from the vehicle) and torque the hub flange bolts to the Hub Bolts spec (102 Nm / 75 lb-ft).
2. Reattach the knuckle to the strut and/or upper control arm, restoring the camber bolt to its marked position. Torque suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
3. Reconnect the outer tie rod end to the knuckle and torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Install a new cotter pin if the design uses one.
4. Slide the half-shaft splines through the hub. Install a NEW axle nut (and new cotter pin or fresh staking, per design). Snug only at this stage.
5. Reinstall the brake rotor and the caliper bracket/caliper assembly. Torque caliper bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
6. Reinstall the ABS sensor into the knuckle and torque the ABS Sensor Bolt to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Reconnect the connector and re-clip the harness to its original retainers.
7. Reinstall the wheel. Torque Wheel Lug Nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
8. Lower the vehicle. With the wheel on the ground and the brakes applied, torque the Axle Nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin or stake the nut per the OEM design.
9. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery. Close all doors and allow the vehicle's systems to wake and self-check.
10. Clear any ABS / stability control fault codes that latched while the sensor was disconnected (typically self-clear after a short drive at low speed; otherwise a scan tool is required).

Verification

• Cycle the ignition (driver door, brake pedal) and confirm there are no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings on the touchscreen.
• Roll the vehicle slowly and confirm the wheel speed sensor is reading on that corner (the ABS warning should self-clear after the wheel turns above ~5 mph).
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for grinding or humming from the repaired corner. Then test at 30–60 mph; bearing noise typically presents as a speed-dependent hum that changes with light steering input.
• Check for any play at the hub by rocking the wheel at 12-and-6 o'clock — there should be none.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment. Any time camber bolts or strut-to-knuckle bolts are loosened on a Model 3, alignment must be re-verified.
• Reminder of unrelated Tesla service intervals while the vehicle is up: brake fluid is due every 2 years (DOT 4), cabin air filter every 2 years, tire rotation every ~6,250 mi, and front drive unit gear oil is NOT lifetime — Tesla now specifies periodic service. Confirm intervals against current Tesla service guidance.

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