Replace the press-in rear wheel bearing on a 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD. The rear bearing is a pressed unit in the rear knuckle (not a bolt-in hub assembly), so the knuckle must be removed and the bearing pressed out and a new one pressed in.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing (press-in type, OEM-spec for Model 3 Performance) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear bearing assembly
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM single-use axle nut or new cotter pin per OEM
• Internal hub snap ring (if equipped) × 1 — OEM-spec retaining ring

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (2024 Model 3 Performance: low-voltage battery is the lithium unit — refer to Tesla Service Manual for exact location and disconnect sequence on this build).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Service Mode via the touchscreen if available before disconnecting 12V, to disable air suspension features (N/A on Model 3 — coil only) and put the vehicle in a known state.
7. Loosen rear axle nut and rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle on the manufacturer-specified lift points and support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the rear wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove axle nut
   With the wheel removed, fully remove the (already-loosened) rear axle nut and discard it. If a cotter pin retains the nut, remove and discard. The halfshaft splines should now be free of the hub flange.
2. 2

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Unbolt the rear brake caliper bracket from the knuckle and suspend the caliper with a wire hook from the suspension — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip if present and slide the rotor off the hub. Torque values for caliper and bracket bolts: refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   ⚠Do not depress the brake pedal with the caliper off — pistons can pop out.
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Unbolt the ABS wheel speed sensor from the knuckle and unclip its harness from the suspension routing clips. Set the sensor aside where it will not be damaged during knuckle removal.
   ⚠Do not pull on the sensor wire to remove the sensor — twist gently and lift to avoid breaking the tip in the bore.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate halfshaft from hub
   Push the outer halfshaft (CV) stub inboard through the hub flange. If seized, use a hub puller or carefully tap with a brass drift on the threaded end protected with the old axle nut threaded on flush. Support the halfshaft — do not let it hang by the inner CV.
   ⚠Allowing the halfshaft to dangle can damage the inner CV joint.
5. 5

   Disconnect suspension links from knuckle
   Disconnect the upper control arm, toe link, and any sway bar end link as required to free the knuckle. Mark adjustable cam bolts (toe/camber) with paint before loosening so alignment can be approximated on reassembly. Support the lower arm with a jack. Torque values: refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   ℹ️An alignment will be required after reassembly regardless of how carefully cam bolts are marked.
6. 6

   Remove the rear knuckle
   With suspension links freed and halfshaft pushed clear, remove the knuckle from the vehicle. Move it to a clean workbench for bearing service.
7. 7

   Press out the old hub and bearing
   Support the knuckle in the press. Press the hub flange out of the bearing inner race first. The inner race will typically remain on the hub — remove it with a bearing splitter or by grinding a relief and splitting it. Remove the internal snap ring retaining the bearing in the knuckle bore using snap ring pliers. Then press the outer bearing race out of the knuckle bore using a properly-sized driver, supporting the knuckle on the correct side.
   ⚠Always press against the appropriate race. Pressing through the wrong race can shatter the bearing and send shrapnel.
   ⚠The knuckle is aluminum on Model 3 rear suspension — do not over-stress the bore lip and never drift the bearing with a hammer.
8. 8

   Inspect and clean the knuckle bore
   Inspect the bore for scoring, ovality, or cracks. A damaged bore means the knuckle must be replaced — a new bearing will not stay seated. Clean the bore with brake cleaner and a lint-free rag. Lightly oil the bore.
9. 9

   Press in the new bearing
   Press the new bearing into the knuckle bore using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race. Press until the bearing is fully seated against the bore shoulder. Install the internal snap ring, ensuring it is fully seated in its groove.
   ⚠️Pressing on the inner race to install will destroy the new bearing immediately. Use the outer-race driver only.
10. 10

    Press the hub into the new bearing
    Support the knuckle with the inner race of the new bearing fully supported on a press tube (NOT the outer race or the knuckle). Press the hub flange in from the outboard side until fully seated. Spin the hub by hand — it must rotate smoothly with no roughness or binding.
    ⚠️Failure to support the inner race during hub install will destroy the new bearing. This is the single most common DIY mistake on press-in bearings.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the knuckle to the vehicle, threading the halfshaft splines through the hub as the knuckle is positioned.
2. Reconnect upper control arm, toe link, and sway bar end link. Snug fasteners but leave final torque until vehicle is at ride height. Torque values: refer to Tesla Service Manual.
3. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor and route the harness in original clips. Torque the ABS Sensor Bolt to spec.
4. Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper bracket / caliper. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. Install a NEW axle nut. Torque the Axle Nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin or stake the nut per OEM design. Do this with the vehicle's weight on the ground or with a helper firmly holding the brake.
6. Reinstall the rear wheel. Torque Wheel Lug Nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
7. Lower the vehicle to ride height and final-torque the suspension link fasteners at ride height to avoid preloading the bushings.
8. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, confirm no warning lights remain after a short drive — ABS, traction, and stability lights should self-clear once the wheel speed sensor sees rotation.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for grinding, humming, or roughness from the repaired corner. Bearing noise typically rises with speed and changes with cornering load.
• Recheck axle nut staking / cotter pin is properly secured before releasing the vehicle.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment — required any time rear suspension links have been disturbed on Model 3.
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after approximately 50-100 miles of driving (Tesla's standard recommendation after wheel service).
• Note: Tesla recommends rear drive unit gear oil service at 12,500 mi initial then every 25,000-50,000 mi — if this vehicle is near that interval, consider servicing while the rear is apart access-friendly.

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