Replacement of a rear wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD. The hub on Model 3 is a bolt-on unit secured to the rear knuckle, requiring removal of the brake assembly, ABS sensor, and half-shaft from the hub.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing/hub assembly × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 rear hub assembly — verify by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use — replace) × 1 — OEM-spec stretch/staked axle nut
• Hub mounting bolts (replace if specified single-use) × 4 — OEM-spec hub-to-knuckle bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion LV) low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3 Performance, this is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the rear floor area — refer to architecture notes and verify location before cutting power.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: with the wheel still on the ground and parking brake released (vehicle in N if possible, chocked at the front wheels), break the axle nut loose. Re-engage parking brake before raising the vehicle.
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while wheel is on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle ONLY at Tesla-designated lift points (factory pucks recommended to avoid pinch-weld damage). Support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove the rear wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove ABS wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS sensor on the rear knuckle. Remove the single retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor from its bore. Set it aside supported by its harness — do not let it dangle. Inspect the sensor tip for debris.
   ⚠ABS sensors seize in aluminum knuckles. If stuck, twist gently — do not pry on the sensor body or you will destroy it.
2. 2

   Remove rear brake caliper and bracket
   Unbolt the caliper guide pins and remove the caliper from the rotor. Support it from the suspension with a hanger — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose or by the electric parking brake harness. Then remove the caliper bracket bolts from the knuckle. Remove the brake rotor (may require a small bolt threaded into the rotor's puller hole if rust-bonded).
   ⚠Do not unplug the electric parking brake motor connector. If you must, the EPB will need re-calibration via service tools.
3. 3

   Remove axle nut
   If not already broken loose during prep, remove the (already-loosened) axle nut completely. Discard — this is a single-use fastener and must be replaced.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate half-shaft from hub
   Push the half-shaft splined stub inward through the hub. It may require a soft-faced mallet on the end of the shaft, or a puller. If the shaft is seized, apply penetrating fluid and work it free. Once free, support the half-shaft with a strap to the suspension — do NOT let it hang by the inner CV joint, as this can damage the inner joint or pull it from the differential.
   ⚠Do not over-extend the inner CV joint. On the Model 3 rear, pulling the inner joint out of the differential will release gear oil and may unseat the inner tripod.
5. 5

   Remove hub-to-knuckle bolts
   From the rear of the knuckle, remove the bolts (typically four) securing the wheel bearing hub assembly to the knuckle. These are often torqued with threadlocker and may require sustained force on a long breaker bar. Note bolt orientation if any are different lengths.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the hub assembly
   Pull the hub assembly forward out of the knuckle bore. If corroded in place, use a slide hammer on the hub flange or carefully tap with a brass drift around the perimeter. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a steel hammer.
   ⚠If the hub is severely seized, heat may be required. Do not apply heat near brake hoses, ABS harnesses, or any wiring.
7. 7

   Clean the knuckle bore and mating surface
   Wire-brush the hub bore and bolt-hole counterbores in the knuckle. Remove all corrosion and old threadlocker. The new hub must seat flat — a high spot here will preload the bearing unevenly and cause premature failure. Wipe clean with brake cleaner.
8. 8

   Install new hub assembly
   Position the new wheel bearing hub into the knuckle, aligning the ABS tone ring side correctly. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub mounting bolt threads if the OEM bolts are not pre-coated with patch-lock compound. Install bolts hand-tight in a star pattern, then torque to specification in two passes (50% then full).
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall half-shaft and new axle nut
   Slide the half-shaft splines through the new hub. Install a NEW axle nut finger-tight. Final torque happens after the wheel is back on the ground (or with a helper firmly applying the service brake).
   ⚠Never reuse the old axle nut. It is a stretch-to-yield / staked fastener.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall brake rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper
    Place the rotor on the hub. Install the caliper bracket — apply threadlocker to the bracket bolts and torque to spec. Reinstall the caliper over the pads and torque the guide pins per the OEM specification (refer to Tesla Service Manual — not in the verified torque list).
11. 11

    Reinstall ABS sensor
    Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the sensor body shaft (NOT the tip). Seat fully into the knuckle bore and install the retaining bolt to spec. Route the harness back into its original clips.
12. 12

    Final-torque axle nut
    Lower the vehicle so the wheel touches the ground (or have a helper press the brake firmly). Torque the new axle nut to specification. Stake the collar of the nut into the shaft groove if the OEM design requires it.
    ⚠️Under- or over-torquing the axle nut WILL destroy the new bearing. Use a calibrated click-type or digital torque wrench, not an impact.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear wheel; snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
3. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery.
5. Allow the vehicle to wake fully (touchscreen boot complete) before starting.
6. Pump the brake pedal several times before driving to seat pads against the rotor.

Verification

• Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings appear on the touchscreen after a key cycle. The Model 3 will typically self-clear ABS sensor faults after a short drive with a few wheel rotations; if a fault persists, recheck sensor seating and air-gap.
• On a test drive at 25–45 mph, listen for cyclic humming or growling that changes with vehicle load (sway left/right) — this would indicate improper axle nut torque or a damaged new bearing.
• Verify the parking brake engages and releases normally via the touchscreen.
• Re-check axle nut and hub bolt torque after approximately 50–100 miles of driving.
• Tesla Wheel Lug Nuts are a known torque-loss point on Model 3 — re-verify lug nut torque at 50 miles.
• Reminder: Tesla's recommended tire rotation interval is every 6,250 miles — note this in your service log if applicable.

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