body
Side Mirror Glass
for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Easy
Time
30 min
Tools
4
Steps
6
Replace the side mirror glass on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range. The glass is retained by clips and a heater electrical connector — no fasteners, but the housing is fragile and the mirror tilts to its outer limit to release.
Warnings
⚠️If the existing glass is cracked, wear cut-resistant gloves and eye protection — broken automotive mirror glass shatters into sharp shards.
⚠Tesla Model S mirror housings are painted aluminum/plastic composite. Do NOT pry against the painted housing edge — use tape and a plastic tool only. Paint chips here are not field-repairable.
⚠The mirror glass on this generation has two heater wires on a small clip-on connector. Pulling the glass straight off without disconnecting will tear the heater leads out of the new glass.
ℹ️Auto-dimming/blind-spot camera glass: confirm whether your replacement matches the original (heated, auto-dim, signal indicator). Mismatched glass will cause feature loss but no fault codes.
Tools required
Plastic trim/pry tool setEssential
Microfiber cloth
Painter's tape (to protect mirror housing edge)
Cut-resistant glovesEssential
Parts
- Side mirror glass assembly (heated, with backing plate) × 1 — Tesla Model S 2024 LH or RH heated mirror glass — verify side and refresh-style housing by VIN
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (Some 2021+ Plaid variants use a 16V Li-ion unit — confirm by VIN.)
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Before disconnecting 12V, use the touchscreen Controls > Service menu (or mirror adjust) to tilt the mirror inward/downward to its travel limit — this exposes the upper-outer edge of the glass for tool access. After this, disconnect 12V.
- Verify left vs. right replacement glass and feature set (heated, auto-dim, signal repeater) matches the OEM unit being removed.
- Apply painter's tape along the outboard edge of the mirror housing where you will insert the pry tool to protect the paint.
Procedure
- 1Position mirror for accessWith 12V already disconnected (mirror was tilted before disconnect during prep), the glass should be tilted so its inner edge is proud of the housing on one side. If not pre-tilted, you will need to work the pry tool deeper but more carefully.
- 2Release the glass from the carrierInsert a wide plastic pry tool between the glass backing plate and the mirror housing at the inner edge (closest to the door). Apply gentle, even outward pressure. The glass is held by spring clips on a plastic carrier — it will release with a soft pop. Work around the perimeter only if needed; do not flex the glass itself, especially if it is intact and being reused for inspection.⚠Pry only against the black plastic carrier behind the glass, never against the painted mirror housing.
- 3Disconnect heater leadsTilt the released glass forward to expose the back side. Locate the two spade-terminal heater wires (typically red and black, push-on connectors). Pull each connector straight off its tab — do not yank the wires. If the glass also has an auto-dim or blind-spot module, disconnect its connector by releasing the locking tab.ℹ️Photograph the wiring orientation before disconnecting if your replacement glass is unmarked for polarity (heater is non-polarized, but auto-dim is not).
- 4Inspect the carrier and actuatorWith the glass removed, inspect the plastic carrier plate for cracked clips, the mirror motor for free movement, and the housing for water intrusion or corroded heater tabs. Damaged carrier clips will cause the new glass to vibrate or fall out — replace the full carrier/actuator assembly if clips are broken.
- 5Connect heater (and auto-dim) on new glassPush the two heater spade connectors firmly onto the tabs on the back of the new glass. If equipped, reconnect the auto-dim/BSM connector until the locking tab clicks. Tug-test each connection.
- 6Seat the new glass into the carrierAlign the four (typical) spring clips on the back of the new glass with the corresponding posts on the carrier plate. Press firmly and evenly with the flats of both palms in the center of the glass — never press on a corner. You will feel and hear each clip snap into place. Confirm the glass sits flush with the housing on all four edges.⚠Do not push on the glass with thumbs at the edges — uneven pressure can crack the new glass before the clips are seated.
Reassembly
- Remove the protective painter's tape from the mirror housing.
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk and reinstall any cowl panel removed for access.
- Close the frunk and allow the vehicle to wake up fully (touchscreen boots, no fault banners present).
Verification
- Power on the vehicle and adjust the mirror via the steering-wheel scroll wheel through its full range of motion in all four directions — confirm smooth travel and that the glass does not bind against the housing.
- Activate the rear defrost (mirror heaters energize with rear defrost on this vehicle). After 2–3 minutes, the mirror glass should feel warm to the touch — confirms heater circuit is intact.
- If the glass is auto-dimming, cover the cabin auto-dim sensor and shine a light at the mirror; the glass should darken within a few seconds.
- If equipped with blind-spot indicator LED, verify it illuminates during a lane-change signal with a vehicle in the adjacent lane (or via Service Mode self-test).
- Drive at low speed and confirm no wind whistle or rattle from the mirror — indicates the glass is fully seated in all clips.
- Note: this job is not part of any Tesla scheduled service interval, but while you have the 12V disconnected, it is a good time to check 12V battery age — AGM units in Model S typically last 3–5 years.