Replacement of a front brake hose on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. This is a hydraulic-only job — no HV systems are touched — but brake fluid bleeding is required afterward.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake hose (left or right as applicable) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model S front brake hose — verify side and VIN
• Copper sealing washers for banjo fitting × 2 — OEM-spec copper crush washers, sized to banjo bolt

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (verify spec by VIN — newer Model S may require DOT 4) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the nose cowl panel in the front trunk). Note: some 2021+ Plaid variants use a 16V lithium unit under the rear seat — verify your configuration.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place Service Mode is NOT required for this job, but if comfortable, enabling it via the touchscreen will disable regen and reduce nuisance alerts during the repair.
7. Loosen the front lug nuts a quarter turn while the wheel is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved lift points with puck adapters and support on jack stands. Do not lift on battery pack seams or pinch welds.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side and set aside on its face to protect the finish.
10. Place a catch pan under the caliper area and protect surrounding paint and suspension bushings from brake fluid contact.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document routing
   Photograph the existing brake hose routing, bracket clip orientation, and how the hose passes through the chassis bracket and connects to the caliper. The replacement must follow the identical path to avoid contact with the tire, suspension, or steering components at full lock and full droop.
2. 2

   Minimize fluid loss (optional)
   If desired, remove the brake fluid reservoir cap in the frunk and use a clean syringe to draw the reservoir down to the MIN line, or apply a hose pinch-off tool to the rubber section of the hose upstream of the work area. Do not clamp a hard line.
   ⚠Never let the reservoir run dry — air in the ABS/iBooster module can require Tesla Toolbox to bleed properly.
3. 3

   Disconnect hose at the caliper (banjo end)
   Position the catch pan beneath the caliper. Loosen and remove the banjo bolt at the caliper using a 6-point socket. Catch the two copper washers — discard them. Cap the hose end and the caliper port to limit fluid loss and contamination.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Release the chassis bracket retainer
   Locate the hard-line-to-soft-hose junction at the chassis bracket. Remove the spring clip (horseshoe clip) that retains the hose fitting in the bracket. Set the clip aside on a clean surface — it will be reused unless damaged.
5. 5

   Disconnect hose at the hard line
   Using a flare-nut (line) wrench, hold the hard-line fitting steady and unscrew the brake hose fitting from the hard line. Do NOT use an open-end wrench — it will round the fitting. Once separated, immediately cap both sides.
   ⚠Twisting the hard line will kink it. If the hard line rotates, stop and reposition the line wrench.
6. 6

   Remove intermediate hose bracket(s)
   If the hose passes through an intermediate bracket on the strut or knuckle, remove the small fastener securing it and free the hose from the chassis. Note clip orientation for reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Install new hose at the chassis end
   Route the new hose along the documented path, ensuring no twists. Thread the hose fitting into the hard line BY HAND first to confirm clean threads — cross-threading the fitting will ruin the hard line. Snug with a flare-nut wrench, then torque to the OEM specification — refer to the Tesla Service Manual.
8. 8

   Seat hose in chassis bracket and reinstall retainer clip
   Seat the hose fitting fully into the chassis bracket and install the spring clip until it locks in place. Verify the hose cannot be pulled out of the bracket.
9. 9

   Reattach intermediate hose bracket
   Reinstall any intermediate hose retaining bracket(s) and torque the small fasteners.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect banjo fitting at caliper
    Place a NEW copper washer on each side of the banjo fitting (one between bolt head and hose, one between hose and caliper). Thread the banjo bolt by hand, then torque to spec. Verify the hose is not twisted and rotates freely to its natural rest position.
    ⚠New copper washers are mandatory. Old washers will weep fluid even at correct torque.
    Torque spec

    Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Bleed the brake circuit
    Top off the master cylinder reservoir with the correct DOT-spec fluid (verify by VIN — DOT 3 or DOT 4). Bleed the affected front caliper using a pressure or vacuum bleeder until clear, bubble-free fluid is observed. Maintain reservoir level above MIN throughout. Torque the bleeder screw on completion.
    ⚠If the reservoir runs dry or pedal feel is spongy after bleeding, the iBooster/ABS module may require an automated bleed via Tesla Toolbox — STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final leak check under pressure
    With the bleeder closed, have an assistant pump and hold the brake pedal at firm pressure for 30 seconds while you inspect both the banjo connection and the hard-line fitting for any seepage. Wipe joints dry and re-inspect after 1 minute.

Reassembly

1. Confirm reservoir is filled to the MAX line with the correct DOT-spec fluid and the cap is fully seated.
2. Reinstall the front wheel. Run lug nuts down by hand in a star pattern, then torque in two passes (50% then full).
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground and final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery and close the frunk.
5. Power up the vehicle. Allow the touchscreen and instrument display to fully boot before testing the pedal.

Verification

• With the vehicle ON but stationary, press the brake pedal firmly several times — pedal should be high and firm, not spongy. A soft pedal indicates remaining air; re-bleed.
• Inspect the banjo fitting and chassis-end fitting one final time for any sign of weeping fluid.
• Check the touchscreen for any brake-related alerts (ABS, traction control, regen disabled). Persistent alerts after a key cycle may indicate the iBooster/ABS module requires a Toolbox-assisted bleed.
• Perform a low-speed (5–10 mph) brake test in a safe area, then a moderate stop from 25 mph. Confirm the vehicle tracks straight under braking and there is no pull to the affected side.
• Re-check lug nut torque after the first 50–100 miles.
• Note: Tesla recommends a full brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If the existing fluid is more than 2 years old, complete a full 4-corner flush now while the system is open.
• Torque values used: Wheel Lug Nuts (136 Nm / 100 lb-ft), Brake Hose Banjo Bolt (25 Nm / 18 lb-ft), Brake Hose Bracket (10 Nm / 7 lb-ft), Bleeder Screw (14 Nm / 10 lb-ft).

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