suspension
Sway Bar Link - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Easy
Time
30 min
Tools
10
Steps
10
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace a rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) end link on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The link connects the sway bar to the rear suspension knuckle/control arm and is a non-HV chassis job.
Warnings
⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. The HV battery floor pack runs the length of the underbody — keep all jack/stand contact at the OEM-designated lift points only.
⚠Aluminum body and subframe components — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or rubber mallet only if persuasion is required.
⚠Tesla lift points are specific puck locations on the rocker pinch areas. Lifting elsewhere can crush the HV battery enclosure or deform the aluminum floor structure.
⚠Sway bar link studs commonly spin when loosening. You MUST hold the stud with an Allen/hex key while turning the nut, or the stud will spin endlessly and damage the link or boot.
ℹ️Replace sway bar links in pairs (left and right) when possible — uneven link condition can cause handling asymmetry.
Tools required
Floor jack rated for EV curb weight (5,000+ lb)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (puck adapters for lift points)Essential
Torque wrench covering 40–125 Nm rangeEssential
Metric socket setEssential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Allen/hex key set (to hold sway bar link stud while torquing)Essential
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Torx/E-Torx set (for any underbody fasteners encountered)
Parts
- Rear sway bar end link (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model S LR AWD) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear sway bar link — verify by VIN
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake (via screen if applicable).
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (If this 2024 build uses a 16V Li-ion unit, follow the same disconnect procedure at that location.)
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place 'Service Mode' considerations: if air suspension is fitted (Plaid/Performance) — verify trim. Standard Long Range typically uses coil springs, but confirm before lifting; if equipped with air suspension, enter Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting to prevent the system from attempting to re-level.
- Chock the front wheels.
- Loosen the rear lug nuts on the affected side(s) before lifting.
Procedure
- 1Lift and support the rear of the vehicleUsing a floor jack with a Tesla-compatible puck adapter, lift the vehicle at the OEM-designated rear lift point. Support the vehicle on jack stands rated for EV curb weight at the manufacturer-specified support locations. Never rely on the jack alone.⚠Lifting at any point other than the designated puck locations can damage the HV battery enclosure.
- 2Remove the rear wheelRemove the lug nuts and pull the rear wheel off. Set it aside on its sidewall to protect the finish (especially on 21"/22" optional wheels).
- 3Locate the rear sway bar end linkIdentify the end link connecting the rear sway (anti-roll) bar to the suspension knuckle/control arm. The link has a stud at each end with a nut, and a hex broach in the center of each stud for holding while loosening.
- 4Apply penetrating oil if neededIf the link or fasteners show corrosion or road grime, apply penetrating oil to both nuts and allow it to soak for several minutes. The link studs can seize, especially in salt-belt vehicles.
- 5Loosen the upper sway bar link nutInsert an Allen/hex key into the broach in the end of the stud to hold it stationary. Using a wrench on the nut, loosen and remove the upper nut. Do NOT use an impact gun without holding the stud — the stud will spin and damage the boot or link.⚠If the stud spins despite holding the hex, grip the body of the link with locking pliers — the link is being replaced anyway.
- 6Loosen the lower sway bar link nutRepeat the same procedure on the lower end of the link. Hold the stud with the hex key and remove the nut.
- 7Remove the old sway bar linkSeparate the link from the sway bar and from the suspension mounting point. Inspect the mating surfaces for corrosion or damage, and inspect the sway bar bushings and bracket while access is available.
- 8Compare the new link to the oldVerify the replacement link is the correct length, has matching stud orientation, and includes new nuts. Confirm any orientation marking (some links are side-specific or have a designated 'up' end).
- 9Install the new sway bar linkPosition the new link with its studs through the sway bar eye and the suspension mount. Hand-thread both nuts to ensure the threads are clean and engaging properly.
- 10Torque the sway bar link nutsUsing the Allen/hex key to hold each stud stationary, torque both nuts to specification with a calibrated torque wrench.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the rear wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle until the wheel just contacts the ground, then final-torque the lug nuts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
- Lower the vehicle fully off the jack stands.
- If the vehicle is air-suspension equipped, exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
- Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk.
- Close the frunk and confirm latching.
Verification
- With the vehicle on the ground, visually confirm both ends of the new link are seated and the nuts are flush against the link bushings/washers.
- Bounce the rear of the car and listen for any clunks — a properly installed link is silent.
- Test drive at low speed over a speed bump or rough surface; listen for clunks or rattles from the rear suspension.
- After 100–200 miles, re-inspect the link nuts for tightness — sway bar link studs occasionally need a re-check after seating.
- Note: While the vehicle is on stands, this is a good opportunity to inspect rear sway bar bushing brackets, control arm bushings, and (for air suspension trims) air strut condition.
- Service interval reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years and tire rotation every 6,250 miles — check service history while the wheel is off.