2024 TESLA MODEL S

Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
6 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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steering

Tie Rod Assembly

for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
11
Steps
9

Replacement of an outer tie rod end (or full tie rod assembly) on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. This job affects steering geometry — a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after completion.

Warnings

⚠️The Model S curb weight exceeds 2,000 kg. Use only Tesla-specified lift points with rubber pucks — lifting on the battery pack or pinch welds will cause structural damage.
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. If you see an orange cable in the work area, stop and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Aluminum body and suspension components — do NOT strike with a steel hammer. Use a tie rod puller, not impacts, to release the taper.
A four-wheel alignment is required after this job. Do not drive the vehicle further than necessary to reach an alignment rack.
ℹ️Steering is electric power-assist (EPAS) — there is no power steering fluid to refill, but disconnecting the 12V may require steering angle sensor recalibration via Tesla service.

Tools required

Floor jack rated for EV weight (2,300+ kg)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV weight, used at Tesla-specified lift points with hockey-puck padsEssential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end puller / pickle fork (puller preferred to avoid boot damage)Essential
Metric socket set (including deep sockets)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Needle-nose pliers (for cotter pin removal)Essential
Wire brush and penetrating oil
Caliper or thread-pitch measuring tool (to record old tie rod length)Essential
Paint marker or scribe (to mark lock nut position)
Breaker barEssential

Parts

  • Tie rod assembly (outer end or complete inner+outer, as applicable) — manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model S LR AWD × 1 — Tesla OEM tie rod for 2024 Model S; verify by VIN
  • New cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — Standard cotter pin sized to castle nut

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V on applicable Plaid) low-voltage battery, located in the front trunk under the nose cowl panel. Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence.
  4. Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the vehicle is on the ground.
  7. Lift the front of the vehicle using ONLY Tesla-specified lift points with rubber hockey-puck pads. Support securely on jack stands.
  8. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
  9. Turn the steering wheel to expose the tie rod for easier access (note: with 12V disconnected, steering will be heavy/locked — adjust position before disconnect if possible).

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect and document
    Inspect the tie rod, boot, and steering rack area for damage or leaks. Photograph the assembly. Measure and record the exposed thread length between the inner tie rod and the lock nut, OR mark the lock nut position relative to the inner tie rod with a paint marker. This preserves toe setting close enough to drive to alignment.
  2. 2
    Remove cotter pin and loosen castle nut
    Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — it must not be reused. Loosen but do not yet fully remove the castle nut.
    Always replace cotter pins — never reuse.
  3. 3
    Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
    Use a proper tie rod end puller to break the taper between the outer tie rod stud and the steering knuckle. Do NOT use a pickle fork unless the tie rod is being discarded — it will tear the boot. Once the taper releases, fully remove the castle nut and lift the stud out of the knuckle.
    Aluminum knuckle on Model S — do not pry aggressively or strike with a steel hammer.
  4. 4
    Loosen the lock nut
    Holding the inner tie rod (flats are typically machined into the inner shaft) with one wrench, break loose the lock nut between the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod end. Do not yet count the threads — your earlier mark/measurement is the reference.
  5. 5
    Unthread the outer tie rod end
    Count the number of full rotations as you unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Record this count — you will reinstall the new tie rod end the same number of turns to preserve approximate toe.
  6. 6
    Compare old and new parts
    Lay the old and new tie rod ends side-by-side. Verify thread pitch, stud taper, overall length, and orientation are identical. If replacing the entire assembly (inner + outer), confirm the inner tie rod connection to the rack matches the OEM specification.
    If any dimension differs, STOP — wrong part will cause toe error or stud pull-through under load.
  7. 7
    Install new tie rod end
    Thread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod shaft (do not tighten yet). Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft the SAME number of rotations recorded in Step 5. Align to your paint mark / measured thread exposure.
  8. 8
    Seat the tie rod stud in the knuckle
    Insert the outer tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice. If the castle nut slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved.
    Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — only tighten further.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Snug the lock nut (do not final-torque yet)
    Lightly snug the lock nut against the outer tie rod end. Final torque to spec is performed AFTER alignment, when the technician sets final toe. Leaving it snug-but-adjustable allows the alignment shop to set toe correctly.
    ℹ️Tie Rod Lock Nut final torque (68 Nm / 50 lb-ft) is applied after alignment, not now.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the front wheel.
  2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
  4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
  5. Close frunk and verify vehicle wakes normally.
  6. Carefully drive (or trailer) the vehicle to an alignment rack — do not drive at speed or for extended distance with un-aligned toe.
  7. After four-wheel alignment is performed and final toe is set, torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to specification.
  8. If a steering angle sensor fault appears on the touchscreen after 12V reconnect, a Tesla service center may need to perform a steering angle calibration.

Verification

  • With wheels straight ahead, confirm the steering wheel is centered. If off-center by more than a few degrees, alignment must correct via equal-and-opposite tie rod adjustment, not by re-clocking the steering wheel.
  • Confirm no clunking, binding, or play when turning lock-to-lock with the vehicle on the ground.
  • Visually verify the new cotter pin is installed and bent over correctly at the castle nut.
  • Verify the lock nut is fully torqued AFTER alignment — a loose lock nut will allow toe to drift and cause rapid tire wear.
  • Check the touchscreen for any steering, ABS, or stability control fault messages. Clear or address before road use.
  • Test drive at low speed first, then at highway speed, confirming straight tracking and no vibration.
  • Reminder: Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 mi on Model S due to instant torque and vehicle weight — note current mileage for the next rotation interval.

More procedures for this vehicle

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