2024 TESLA MODEL S

Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
6 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Founding sponsor spot is openYour name on every procedure for this vehicle, permanently.Sponsor — $99 →
steering

Tie Rod End - Inner

for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
10
Steps
12

Replacement of an inner tie rod end on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The inner tie rod threads into the steering rack and requires an inner tie rod tool to remove without damaging the rack bellows or rack housing. A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair.

Warnings

⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cabling routed under the vehicle. If you encounter HV components near the steering rack area, stop and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Model S body panels are aluminum. Do not strike suspension or subframe components in a way that transmits shock to body panels — aluminum cracks rather than deforms.
A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after inner tie rod replacement. Driving long distances without alignment will rapidly destroy the tires (Model S weight + instant torque accelerates wear).
Do not use a pickle fork on the outer tie rod ball joint if reusing the outer tie rod — it will tear the boot. Use a proper tie rod puller.
ℹ️Center the steering rack and lock the steering wheel before disconnecting the tie rod to avoid damaging the steering angle sensor / clockspring.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands (rated for EV curb weight)Essential
Torque wrench (5–150 Nm range)Essential
Inner tie rod removal/installation tool (crowfoot-style or dedicated inner tie rod tool)Essential
Tie rod end puller / pickle fork (preferably puller to avoid boot damage)Essential
Metric socket and wrench setEssential
Boot clamp pliers (CV-style)
Breaker bar
Wheel chocksEssential
Trim panel removal tools
Tape measure or alignment string (for rough toe pre-set)

Parts

  • Inner tie rod end (front, side-specific) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S 2024 inner tie rod assembly — verify by VIN
  • Steering rack bellows boot clamps (inner and outer) × 2 — OEM-spec replacement clamps if originals are stretch/crimp type
  • Cotter pin for outer tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
  • Steering rack bellows boot (recommended if torn or aged) × 1 — OEM-spec bellows

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the nose cowl panel in the front trunk). If this vehicle is equipped with a 16V lithium low-voltage battery, follow the appropriate disconnect procedure for that unit.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. If you encounter an orange cable or are unsure whether a system is de-energized, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  5. Center the steering wheel straight-ahead and lock it in place (seat belt through the wheel, or steering wheel lock tool) so the clockspring/steering angle sensor is not rotated while the tie rod is disconnected.
  6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
  7. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
  8. Before disassembly, measure and record the exposed thread length between the outer tie rod jam nut and the inner tie rod, or the overall tie rod length, to provide a baseline toe setting for driving to the alignment shop.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect and access
    With the wheel removed, turn the steering rack manually (if possible with the wheel unlocked momentarily, then re-lock centered) to gain access to the inner tie rod boot area. Inspect the steering rack bellows boot for tears, the outer tie rod for play, and confirm the failure is in the inner tie rod (radial/axial play at the rack-side joint).
  2. 2
    Loosen outer tie rod jam nut
    Loosen (do not remove) the lock/jam nut between the outer tie rod end and the inner tie rod shaft. This will allow the outer tie rod to be unthreaded later while preserving an approximate toe setting if you count rotations.
  3. 3
    Separate outer tie rod from steering knuckle
    Remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut, then remove the castle nut. Using a proper tie rod puller (not a pickle fork if the outer is being reused), separate the outer tie rod taper from the steering knuckle.
    Support the outer tie rod as it releases — sudden separation can damage the ABS/wheel-speed sensor wiring or the brake hose.
  4. 4
    Remove outer tie rod assembly (optional but recommended)
    Count the number of turns as you unthread the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod shaft, or simply leave it threaded and remove as an assembly with the inner. Either approach is acceptable; counting turns helps re-establish a rough toe setting for the drive to the alignment rack.
  5. 5
    Release the steering rack bellows boot
    Release the outer (small) clamp and the inner (large) clamp on the steering rack bellows boot. Slide the boot off the inner tie rod and back toward the rack housing, or remove it entirely if it will be replaced. Inspect the boot for cracks; replace if compromised.
    ℹ️Note the orientation of the boot before removal — installing it backward can cause it to balloon or chafe at full lock.
  6. 6
    Remove the inner tie rod from the rack
    Hold the steering rack shaft with a backup wrench on the flats provided (do NOT clamp the rack shaft in a way that scores the sealing surface). Using an inner tie rod tool sized to the joint, unscrew the inner tie rod counterclockwise from the rack. Some inner tie rods use a staked or crimped lock feature — inspect and follow the manufacturer-specified release method.
    Never apply rotational force to the rack toothed shaft without holding the designated wrench flats — internal damage to the rack can result, requiring full rack replacement.
  7. 7
    Inspect rack threads and shaft
    Inspect the rack shaft threads for damage and the sealing/wiper area for scoring. If damaged, the rack must be replaced — do not attempt to chase or repair the threads. Wipe the threads clean.
  8. 8
    Install new inner tie rod
    Thread the new inner tie rod onto the rack shaft by hand to ensure clean engagement. Hold the rack shaft on its wrench flats and tighten the inner tie rod to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the inner tie rod-to-rack torque value (do not substitute outer tie rod torque values). If the design uses a staking or thread-locking feature, follow the manufacturer-specified locking method.
    Do not guess this torque value — under-torque allows the joint to back off and lose toe; over-torque can damage the rack shaft.
  9. 9
    Reinstall steering rack bellows boot
    Slide the bellows boot back into position over the inner tie rod and seat it onto the rack housing in its original orientation. Install new clamps (inner large clamp on the rack housing, outer small clamp on the inner tie rod shaft groove).
  10. 10
    Reinstall outer tie rod and set rough toe
    Thread the outer tie rod (with jam nut) back onto the inner tie rod shaft to the same number of turns counted during removal, or to the previously measured exposed-thread length. This is a rough setting only — final toe must be set on an alignment rack.
  11. 11
    Reconnect outer tie rod to steering knuckle
    Insert the outer tie rod taper into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification, then align the slot to the cotter pin hole (tighten further to align — never loosen). Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Tighten outer tie rod jam nut (preliminary)
    Snug the outer tie rod jam (lock) nut for the drive to the alignment shop. Final torque on the lock nut must be applied AFTER the alignment is set.
    ℹ️Final lock nut torque (Tie Rod Lock Nut: 68 Nm / 50 lb-ft) is applied after alignment is complete.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the front wheel. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
  4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk and reinstall the cowl/cover.
  5. Unlock the steering wheel.
  6. Drive carefully and at low speed directly to an alignment facility — the rough toe setting is not safe for highway speeds or extended driving.

Verification

  • Confirm no play at the inner tie rod joint by grasping the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and rocking — there should be no clunk or perceptible play from the inner joint.
  • Confirm the steering rack bellows boot is correctly seated at both ends with no twisting or ballooning, and that clamps are secure.
  • Confirm a NEW cotter pin is installed at the outer tie rod castle nut and properly bent.
  • Have a four-wheel alignment performed on an alignment rack capable of handling Tesla Model S specs (the technician will need the Tesla-specified caster/camber/toe targets for this VIN and trim).
  • After alignment is complete, torque the outer tie rod jam (lock) nut.
  • Test drive: verify the steering wheel is centered, there is no pull, no clunk over bumps, and no abnormal tire scrub on turns.
  • Tesla service interval reminder: rotate tires every ~6,250 miles — Model S weight and instant torque wear tires quickly, especially after any toe-affecting repair.
  • Re-torque check: re-verify the outer tie rod castle nut and lock nut torque after the first 100–200 miles.

More procedures for this vehicle

⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2024 Tesla Model S repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Tesla Model S — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 50 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →