suspension

Upper Control Arm

for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

1.5 h

Tools

Steps

Replacement of an upper control arm on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. The Model S front suspension uses a multi-link aluminum design with multiple upper links — verify which specific upper link is being replaced before ordering parts.

Warnings

⚠️The Model S has high-voltage components routed through the floor and front sub-structure. Do not pry, drill, or strike anywhere near orange cabling. If you see an orange cable in your work area, STOP.

⚠Model S body and many suspension components are aluminum. Do not strike with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift. Aluminum cracks rather than deforms.

⚠Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts MUST be done with the suspension at ride height (vehicle weight on wheels). Torquing at full droop will pre-load the bushings and cause premature failure.

⚠If equipped with air suspension (Performance/Plaid), disable the air system via the touchscreen (Service Mode → Suspension) before lifting to prevent the compressor from running while unloaded. Do NOT cut or disconnect air lines under pressure.

ℹ️An alignment is required after any control arm replacement. Camber and caster will shift.

Tools required

Metric socket set (10–21mm)Essential

Metric combination wrench setEssential

Calibrated torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential

Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie rod pullerEssential

Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shafts if disturbed)

Floor jack with rubber jack pad (Tesla-approved lift points)Essential

Jack stands rated for EV curb weight (~2200 kg)Essential

Torx and E-Torx socket set

Wheel chocksEssential

Drive-on ramps or alignment-friendly support (for final torque under load)

Parts

Upper control arm assembly (Model S 2024, side-specific — verify left vs right) × 1 — OEM Tesla upper control arm — confirm by VIN
Ball joint nut (replace if prevailing-torque/self-locking) × 1 — OEM-spec self-locking nut

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V (or 16V on Plaid) low-voltage battery — located in the front trunk under the nose cowl panel on Model S. Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence.
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
If equipped with air suspension, enter Service Mode and place suspension in Jack Mode / Transport Mode before disconnecting 12V.
Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
Lift vehicle only at Tesla-designated lift points using a rubber pad — the battery pack runs the length of the floor and the rocker pinch welds are NOT lift points on Model S.
Support on rated jack stands and confirm stability before going underneath.
Identify whether the failed arm is the forward or rearward upper link; order the correct side and position.

Procedure

1
Remove front wheel
Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Set aside on its sidewall to avoid scratching the finish. Inspect the wheel bearing and brake components while access is open.
2
Inspect work area for HV and air lines
Visually trace the area around the upper control arm. Identify any orange HV cabling, air suspension lines, ride-height sensor links, and ABS/wheel speed sensor harness. Note their routing so they are not damaged during arm removal.
⚠️If any orange cable is in the work path, stop and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
3
Detach ride-height sensor link (if equipped)
On air suspension cars, the upper control arm may have a ride-height sensor linkage attached. Carefully unclip the linkage and move it aside. Do not bend or stress the sensor body.
4
Support the knuckle/upright
Place a jack with a wood block under the lower control arm or directly under the steering knuckle to support its weight once the upper ball joint is released. This prevents the half-shaft, brake hose, and lower joints from being stressed.
⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor harness.
5
Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle
Remove the cotter pin/retainer if present, then loosen the ball joint nut. Back the nut off but leave it threaded on by a few turns to catch the joint. Use a ball joint separator to break the taper free from the knuckle, then remove the nut completely and lift the ball joint stud out.
⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly. Use the separator tool or strike a steel adapter, not the knuckle itself.
Torque spec
Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6
Remove inboard control arm pivot bolts
Locate the inboard mounting bolts where the upper arm bolts to the body/sub-frame bracket. Mark the eccentric/cam washer position if present (some Model S upper arms use cam-style adjusters). Support the arm and remove the through-bolts and nuts.
ℹ️Photograph alignment cam positions before removal — even though an alignment is required after, this gives the alignment tech a starting baseline.
7
Remove the upper control arm
Maneuver the arm out of the chassis bracket and away from the knuckle. Note bushing orientation and any spacers/washers, keeping them with their original positions.
8
Compare new arm to old
Lay the new arm next to the old one. Verify length, ball joint orientation, bushing type, and side-specificity match exactly. Confirm any included hardware matches OEM specification.
9
Install new upper control arm — inboard side
Position the new arm in the chassis bracket. Insert the through-bolts in the same direction as removal, with any cam washers oriented as marked. Thread nuts on but leave them snug only — do NOT final-torque yet.
⚠Final torque on the pivot bolts must be done at ride height, not now.
10
Connect upper ball joint to knuckle
Seat the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install a new self-locking nut and torque to specification. Install a new cotter pin if the design uses one.
Torque spec
Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11
Reattach ride-height sensor link (if equipped)
Reconnect the ride-height sensor linkage. Verify it moves freely through suspension travel without binding.

Reassembly

Reinstall the front wheel and snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
Lower the vehicle to the ground so full curb weight is on the suspension.
With the vehicle at ride height, final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolts to specification.
Torque wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery in the frunk.
If air suspension was placed in Jack Mode, exit Service Mode and allow the system to self-level.
Verify no warning messages on the touchscreen related to suspension, ABS, or stability control.

Verification

Confirm steering wheel turns lock-to-lock without binding, clunks, or interference.
Bounce-test the front corner — listen for any knocks from the new bushing or ball joint.
Inspect the ball joint nut and pivot bolts visually after a short test drive to confirm nothing has loosened.
Test drive at low speed first, then highway speed — watch for pulling, off-center steering wheel, or wandering.
Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately. Caster, camber, and toe will all be affected; Tesla's specs are tight and improper alignment will chew through the expensive 19/21/22-inch tires quickly.
On air suspension cars, confirm the vehicle returns to correct ride height at all four corners and no air-suspension fault appears on the touchscreen.
Re-torque pivot bolts can be re-checked after ~100 miles of driving for peace of mind.
Note: while the vehicle is in the shop, check tire rotation interval (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi) and brake fluid age (Tesla recommends every 2 years) — both are commonly overdue at the time of suspension work.