Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Model S Plaid (AWD tri-motor). This trim uses adaptive air suspension, so the system must be placed in Jack Mode before lifting and final fastener torque must be set with the vehicle at normal ride height.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly (left or right as required) × 1 — Tesla Model S (2021+ refresh / Plaid) front LCA — verify by VIN
• Ball joint castle nut cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — never reuse
• Control arm pivot bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 1 — Verify reuse policy in Tesla Service Manual by VIN

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model S Plaid this is the 16V lithium unit — refer to architecture notes and the Tesla Service Manual for exact location and disconnect procedure on your VIN.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: with 12V/LV still connected, enter the touchscreen Service menu and enable Jack Mode (raises vehicle and disables self-leveling). Then power down and disconnect LV battery as above.
7. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle using factory pinch-weld jack points with Tesla-approved pucks only — never lift on the battery floor or suspension components.
9. Support the vehicle on rated jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points.
10. Have a four-wheel alignment appointment scheduled — alignment is mandatory after this job.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove road wheel
   Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off the affected corner. Set the wheel aside on its face to protect the finish (21"/22" Plaid wheels are easily curbed).
2. 2

   Photograph and inspect
   Take reference photos of the control arm orientation, bolt directions, and any alignment cam markings. The Model S front suspension uses multi-link geometry; documenting original bolt orientation makes reassembly faster and helps the alignment shop.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar end link blocks ball joint access, hold the link's internal hex with an Allen key and remove the nut. Swing the link clear. This is model-dependent; on some Model S front geometries this is not required.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the knuckle / hub assembly
   Place a jack under the steering knuckle to prevent it from dropping when the ball joint is separated. Allowing the knuckle to hang can damage the CV axle inner joint, ABS sensor wiring, and brake hose.
   ⚠Do not let the hub assembly hang by the brake hose or ABS line.
5. 5

   Separate the lower ball joint
   Remove and discard the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut. Loosen the nut but leave it threaded a few turns to retain the joint while you break the taper. Use a proper ball joint separator — not a pickle fork — to preserve the boot if reusing the knuckle. Once the taper releases, fully remove the nut and lower the arm away from the knuckle.
   ⚠Always use a NEW cotter pin on reassembly. Never reuse.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Mark and remove inner pivot bolts
   If the inner pivot uses an alignment cam, mark its position relative to the subframe with a paint pen before loosening. Support the control arm, then remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) securing the arm to the subframe. Note bolt direction and any washer/cam stack-up.
   ℹ️Some Tesla suspension fasteners are torque-to-yield single-use. Verify reuse policy in the Tesla Service Manual for your VIN before reinstalling original bolts.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the control arm
   Maneuver the lower control arm down and out of the subframe. Compare old and new arms side-by-side: bushing orientation, ball joint angle, and any brackets must match exactly.
8. 8

   Install new control arm — inner pivot
   Position the new arm into the subframe pocket. Install the inner pivot bolt(s) hand-tight only at this stage. Do NOT final-torque yet — bushings must be clamped at ride height to avoid pre-loading them.
9. 9

   Reattach ball joint to knuckle
   Raise the knuckle with the support jack to align the ball joint stud through the knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification, then continue tightening (never loosening) only enough to align the slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar end link (if removed)
    Reinstall the end link, holding the internal shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle so its full weight is on the wheels at normal ride height. For air-suspension Plaid, exit Jack Mode after reconnecting LV power so the system returns to standard ride height before final torque.
3. With the vehicle weighted at ride height, final-torque the inner control arm pivot bolt(s).
4. Reconnect the low-voltage battery.
5. Power on the vehicle and exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen if not already done. Allow the air suspension to self-level.
6. Verify no fault messages on the instrument cluster (suspension, ABS, stability control).

Verification

• Confirm wheel lugs torqued to Wheel Lug Nuts spec (136 Nm / 100 lb-ft) in a star pattern; re-check after a short drive.
• Confirm ball joint castle nut torqued to Ball Joint Nut spec (88 Nm / 65 lb-ft) with a NEW cotter pin installed and legs bent.
• Confirm inner Control Arm Bolts torqued to 165 Nm / 122 lb-ft with the suspension at ride height (not drooped).
• Visually verify the air strut, ride height sensor link, ABS sensor wiring, and brake hose are routed correctly and not stretched, pinched, or contacting the new arm.
• Cycle the air suspension through Low / Standard / High via the touchscreen and confirm smooth, even movement on both sides with no fault codes.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks. Then road-test and confirm straight tracking and centered steering wheel — note any pull for the alignment tech.
• MANDATORY: have a four-wheel alignment performed at a shop with Tesla Model S specifications before returning the vehicle to normal service.
• While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, this is a good opportunity to check Tesla's other interval items: brake fluid (every 2 years — DOT 3/4 per VIN), cabin/HEPA filter (2-3 years), and tire rotation (every 6,250 mi).

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