drivetrain
Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
11
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replacement of a press-in rear wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range AWD. The bearing is pressed into the rear knuckle and requires removal of the half-shaft and use of a hydraulic press or in-vehicle bearing press kit.
Warnings
⚠️Model X has a floor-mounted HV battery directly inboard of the rear suspension. Do NOT place jack stands or lift pads on or near the HV pack — use only Tesla-designated lift points.
⚠️Never touch, pinch, or route tools near any orange cable. If exposed orange cabling is encountered during this job, stop work.
⚠Model X uses standard air suspension. Disable suspension/jack mode via the touchscreen before lifting and keep the vehicle off the ground only as long as necessary to avoid air strut damage.
⚠Aluminum suspension components — do not strike knuckles or control arms with a steel hammer. Use a brass drift or dead-blow only.
⚠The axle nut is a CRITICAL torque (250 Nm). Under-torque causes bearing failure; over-torque damages the new bearing. Always replace the nut and cotter pin/stake.
ℹ️After any rear suspension/hub disturbance, a brief road test will allow ABS/traction control self-calibration; verify no fault codes remain.
Tools required
Torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)Essential
Soft-face dead-blow malletEssential
Snap ring pliers (internal)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / pick setEssential
Brake caliper hanger / bungeeEssential
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Parts
- Rear wheel bearing assembly (press-in type, OEM-spec for Model X) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear wheel bearing for 2024 Model X LR AWD
- Axle nut (single-use) with new cotter pin or stake-style nut × 1 — OEM rear axle nut, single-use
- Internal hub/bearing snap ring (if equipped) × 1 — OEM-spec snap ring
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Be aware of the Falcon Wing rear doors — keep them closed and powered off during the lift; do not raise the vehicle with a Falcon door open or partially cycled, as the body flex can damage the hinge mechanism.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Follow the Tesla-documented disconnect sequence.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- On the touchscreen (before 12V disconnect): enable 'Jack Mode' to disable air suspension self-leveling. After lift, suspension must remain undisturbed.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
- While weight is still on the wheel, use a breaker bar to break the axle nut loose (do not fully remove yet).
- Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified rear lift points and support on jack stands rated for EV weight. Confirm stable footing before going underneath.
- Remove the rear wheel.
Procedure
- 1Remove brake caliper and rotorRemove the rear caliper bracket bolts and lift the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with a hanger — do NOT let it dangle from the flexible brake line. Remove the rotor retaining clip/screw if present and slide the rotor off the hub. If the rotor is seized, tap evenly with a dead-blow; do not strike with steel.⚠Do not depress the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
- 2Disconnect ABS sensor and parking brakeRemove the ABS wheel speed sensor bolt and carefully extract the sensor from the knuckle. Set it clear of the work area to avoid damage during bearing removal. Disconnect the electronic parking brake actuator electrical connector at the caliper if not already removed with the caliper.⚠ABS sensors are easily damaged. Do not pry on the sensor body — twist gently to free it.Torque specABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
- 3Remove axle nut and free half-shaft from hubRemove the cotter pin (if equipped) and back the axle nut fully off. Discard the nut — it is single-use. Push the half-shaft splines inward through the hub. If seized, use a hub puller; do not hammer the shaft end. The half-shaft does not need to be fully removed from the differential — push it just clear of the hub flange and support it.⚠Do not let the half-shaft hang under its own weight from the inner CV joint — support it with wire to prevent inner joint damage.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 4Separate suspension links to gain knuckle clearanceDepending on press tooling clearance, separate the upper control arm or toe link from the knuckle per OEM procedure. Mark all camber/toe adjuster positions before loosening so alignment can be returned closely on reassembly. An alignment will still be required afterward.⚠Aluminum knuckle and links — use a proper ball joint separator, not a pickle fork, to avoid tearing boots or gouging the metal.
- 5Remove hub flange from knuckleRemove the hub flange retaining bolts (rear of knuckle) and pull the hub flange out of the bearing inner race. If the inner race remains stuck on the hub flange, it must be cut or pulled off with a bearing splitter before reuse — do not reinstall the bearing without removing it.Torque specHub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 6Remove the press-in bearingRemove the internal snap ring(s) retaining the bearing in the knuckle bore using internal snap-ring pliers. Using a hydraulic press or in-vehicle bearing press kit with the correct OD driver, press the old bearing OUT of the knuckle in the manufacturer-specified direction. Clean the bore thoroughly and inspect for scoring, ovality, or corrosion. Replace the knuckle if the bore is damaged.⚠Never press on the inner race of a sealed bearing — only on the outer race. Use a driver matched to the bearing OD.
- 7Press in the new bearingLightly oil the knuckle bore. Orient the new bearing per the manufacturer's marking (magnetic encoder ring, if present, faces the ABS sensor). Press the new bearing in by the OUTER race only until fully seated against the shoulder. Install the snap ring(s) and verify the bearing is fully captured.⚠️Installing the bearing backward will disable ABS, traction control, and stability control — verify encoder ring orientation before pressing.
- 8Reinstall hub flangePress the hub flange into the new bearing's inner race using a press and supporting the inner race only — never press through the outer race or the new bearing will be destroyed. Install the hub flange retaining bolts and torque to specification.Torque specHub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 9Reattach knuckle to suspension and half-shaftReconnect the suspension links separated in Step 4, returning camber/toe adjusters to their marked positions. Slide the half-shaft splines back through the hub. Install the new axle nut finger-tight at this stage.
- 10Reinstall ABS sensor, rotor, and caliperClean the ABS sensor tip and bore, install the sensor, and torque the bolt. Slide the rotor onto the hub. Reinstall the caliper bracket and caliper. Torque caliper hardware to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.Torque specABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
- 11Final axle nut torqueReinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle so weight is on the suspension. Torque the new axle nut to specification, then install a new cotter pin or stake the nut as applicable. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.⚠Axle nut torque is CRITICAL — incorrect torque will destroy the new bearing within hundreds of miles.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Confirm all fasteners are torqued — particularly hub bolts, axle nut, and ABS sensor bolt.
- Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
- Power up the vehicle and disable Jack Mode via the touchscreen; allow the air suspension to self-level fully before moving the vehicle.
- Cycle the brake pedal several times before driving to seat the caliper pistons.
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment — any rear suspension link disturbance on Model X requires alignment verification.
Verification
- With the vehicle off the ground, spin the hub by hand — rotation should be smooth, silent, and free of any roughness or play.
- Check for radial play by rocking the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock — there should be zero perceptible movement.
- Test drive at 30–60 mph and listen for any humming or growling that changes with cornering load (a sign of incorrect bearing orientation or under-torqued axle nut).
- Verify on the Tesla touchscreen Service menu that no ABS, traction control, or stability control fault codes are present. The encoder ring must be read correctly for these systems to function.
- Re-torque check the axle nut and lug nuts after approximately 50 miles.
- Note: Tesla's marketing claim of 'no scheduled maintenance' does not apply to wear items — inspect the opposite-side rear bearing if mileage and symptoms suggest paired wear, and remember brake fluid service is due every 2 years and rear drive unit gear oil is no longer 'lifetime' (inspect/service per current Tesla guidance: initial 12,500 mi, then 25,000–50,000 mi).
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0520Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch CircuitP0521Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/PerformanceP0530A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor CircuitP2229Barometric Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/PerformanceP2230Barometric Pressure Sensor A Circuit LowP2231Barometric Pressure Sensor A Circuit HighP2762Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit LowP2763Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit HighP3023CVT Line Pressure Control PerformanceP3045DCT Hydraulic Pump Pressure LowB0290Heated Steering Wheel CircuitB0641A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →