electrical
Headlight Assembly - Pair
for 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
8
Steps
11
Replacement of both front headlight assemblies on a 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid. Requires partial front fascia removal for access; falcon doors are not involved but front trunk (frunk) work is required to disconnect the 12V system.
Warnings
⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cable. If you encounter HV components while working in the front structure, STOP.
⚠Model X uses an aluminum body and composite fascia panels. Do not strike or pry aggressively — bent aluminum support brackets are not easily straightened and dent permanently.
⚠These headlamps contain matrix/adaptive LED modules. They typically require calibration via Tesla service software after replacement; without it, adaptive features and possibly low-beam aim may be incorrect.
ℹ️Falcon doors are not directly involved in this job, but ensure the vehicle is parked where the doors will not auto-open (key fob away, doors closed) so the front structure remains stable while you work.
⚠Headlamp connectors are sealed and locked. Do not pull on wiring — release the lock tab and pull on the connector body only.
Tools required
Plastic trim/panel removal tool setEssential
Torx bit set (T20-T30)Essential
Metric socket set (8mm-13mm)Essential
1/4" drive torque wrench (2-20 Nm range)Essential
Painter's tape (for fender protection)
Soft-faced fender covers
Headlamp aiming target or aiming machineEssential
Insulated gloves and safety glasses
Parts
- Front headlight assembly, Model X (2024) — left/driver side × 1 — Tesla OEM LH headlamp assembly — verify by VIN
- Front headlight assembly, Model X (2024) — right/passenger side × 1 — Tesla OEM RH headlamp assembly — verify by VIN
- Plastic push-pin retainers (fascia/liner) × 10 — Replace any broken on disassembly
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (frunk-mounted, similar position to Model S). Insulate the negative terminal so it cannot spring back.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Service Mode prior to disconnecting 12V if you intend to use Tesla service software for headlamp calibration afterward (note: full recalibration requires Tesla Toolbox — plan accordingly).
- Cover the front fenders and hood edge with soft fender covers or painter's tape to protect paint while reaching into the headlamp pockets.
- Confirm replacement headlamps match the VIN configuration (matrix/adaptive vs. standard LED, market region) before removing the originals.
Procedure
- 1Open frunk and remove frunk liner edge fastenersOpen the frunk and remove the perimeter push-pin fasteners along the front and side edges of the frunk liner as needed to access the upper headlamp mounting points and fascia clips. Set fasteners aside in order; replace any that break.
- 2Remove front wheel arch liner fasteners (both sides)Turn the steering as needed for access. Remove the forward-most screws and push-pins of each front wheel arch liner to expose the lower outboard mounting tab of the headlamp and the lateral fascia attachment.
- 3Release and partially remove the front fasciaRemove the upper fascia fasteners along the leading edge under the frunk lip, and the lower fascia fasteners under the front splitter area. Carefully release the fascia side clips at each fender. The fascia does not need to come fully off — it can be supported forward on padded stands to gain headlamp access. Disconnect any sensor harnesses (parking sensors, ambient temp, fog/marker if equipped) before allowing the fascia to move forward. Refer to Tesla Service Manual for full fascia removal sequence if needed.⚠Aluminum and composite — never pry against painted fender edges. Use a plastic trim tool only.
- 4Disconnect headlamp electrical connectorsLocate the main headlamp connector(s) at the rear of each assembly. Press the lock tab fully and pull the connector straight out by its body. Inspect pins for corrosion or backed-out terminals before installing the new assembly.
- 5Remove headlamp mounting fasteners — driver sideRemove the upper, inboard, and outboard headlamp mounting bolts/screws securing the LH assembly to the front structure. Support the headlamp as the last fastener is removed so it does not drop into the fascia or fender.Torque specModule Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 6Withdraw driver-side headlamp assemblyPull the LH headlamp forward and slightly outboard to clear the locating dowels on the support bracket. Do not twist — the alignment tabs are plastic and break easily. Place the assembly lens-up on a clean, padded surface.
- 7Remove headlamp mounting fasteners — passenger sideRepeat the fastener removal procedure for the RH headlamp assembly, supporting it as the last fastener comes free.Torque specModule Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 8Withdraw passenger-side headlamp assemblyWithdraw the RH assembly using the same forward-and-outboard motion. Inspect the headlamp support bracket and locating dowels for damage; replace per the manufacturer-specified bracket if bent.
- 9Transfer any reusable hardware and inspect new assembliesCompare new headlamp assemblies side-by-side with the originals to confirm correct part numbers, connector style, and adaptive/matrix configuration. Transfer any clip-on brackets or alignment grommets only if they are not pre-installed on the new units.ℹ️Mismatched matrix vs. non-matrix lamps will throw a vehicle fault and disable adaptive functions.
- 10Install new headlamp assembliesSeat each new headlamp onto its locating dowels with the assembly oriented straight-in. Hand-start all mounting fasteners before torquing any. Once aligned, torque the headlamp mounting bolts to specification.Torque specModule Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 11Reconnect headlamp electrical connectorsPlug each headlamp connector in fully until the lock tab clicks. Tug-test each connector lightly to confirm engagement. Verify no harness is pinched between the headlamp and fender or hood structure.
Reassembly
- Reposition the front fascia onto its side clips and locating tabs; reconnect any sensor harnesses removed earlier (parking sensors, ambient temp).
- Reinstall fascia fasteners (upper, lower, and side), then wheel arch liner fasteners on both sides. Replace any broken push-pins.
- Reinstall the frunk liner edge fasteners.
- Verify panel gap symmetry between fascia, fender, and hood on both sides before final tightening.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk. Torque the battery terminal bolts to specification.
- Close the frunk and confirm latch engagement.
Verification
- Power up the vehicle and verify no lighting-related alerts appear on the center display.
- Test low beam, high beam, daytime running lights, turn signals, and (if equipped) cornering/adaptive matrix function on both sides.
- Visually verify beam pattern symmetry against a wall at the manufacturer-specified distance; perform formal headlamp aim with an aiming machine or proper target. Adaptive matrix headlamps will require calibration via Tesla service software — schedule a service center visit if you do not have access.
- Confirm parking sensors, front camera (if disturbed), and ambient temperature reading all function normally — these share the front fascia harness.
- Walk around the front of the vehicle and verify fascia gaps, hood line, and headlamp lens flush-fit are even side-to-side.
- Note: while the front is open, this is a good opportunity to check 12V battery age (Tesla 12V batteries typically need replacement at 3-5 years on AGM units) and cabin air filter interval (every 2 years, or 3 years for HEPA-equipped Model X with Bioweapon Defense Mode).