Replacement of a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The front hub assembly must be removed from the steering knuckle and the bearing pressed out/in using a hydraulic press or on-car bearing press kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (press-in type, OEM or equivalent) × 1 — Tesla Model Y front wheel bearing — verify by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use stake nut or cotter-pin nut) × 1 — OEM single-use axle nut
• Cotter pin (if applicable) × 1 — OEM cotter pin
• Hub bolts (replace if showing wear or per OEM guidance) × 3 — OEM-spec hub-to-knuckle bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the front trunk area on Model Y — refer to Tesla Service Manual for exact access).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Jack Mode in the vehicle touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to disable suspension self-leveling routines and prevent unintended wake events.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Loosen the axle nut (stake or cotter-pin style) while the wheel is still on the ground and the brake is applied — this fastener is at 250 Nm and is far easier to break loose with the wheel loaded.
9. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack pads and support on rated jack stands. Never lift on the battery pack rails.
10. Remove the front wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts from the rear of the steering knuckle. Lift the caliper and bracket off the rotor as an assembly and suspend with a hanger — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip/screw if present and pull the rotor off the hub. If seized, thread bolts into the rotor's service holes to push it free.
   ⚠If brake fluid is more than 2 years old, plan a brake fluid flush — Tesla recommends every 2 years regardless of mileage.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt from the steering knuckle and carefully extract the sensor. Unclip the harness from any retainers along the upper control arm and knuckle. Set the sensor aside where it cannot be damaged.
   ⚠Do not pull on the sensor wire. If the sensor is seized in the knuckle, gently rock it free with pliers on the body — a torn sensor will trigger ABS/traction faults.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate the axle from the hub
   Remove the axle nut completely (and discard if single-use). Push the outer CV stub inward through the hub splines using a brass drift or hub puller. Do not hammer the axle threads directly. If the splines are seized, apply penetrant and use a slide hammer / hub puller. Support the half-shaft with a bungee strap once free.
   ⚠Do not let the half-shaft drop or overextend the inner CV/tripod joint.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate steering and suspension joints from knuckle
   Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the knuckle (remove nut, separate with proper puller — no pickle fork on aluminum knuckle ears). Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle per OEM procedure. If removing the entire knuckle for press work, also separate the upper control arm ball joint. Inspect ball joint boots while accessible.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle. Use a separator tool or controlled mallet blows on the ball-joint stud area only.
5. 5

   Remove the hub from the knuckle
   Remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts (typically accessed from the rear of the knuckle). Pull the hub flange forward out of the knuckle bore. The bearing inner race may stay on the hub flange — this is normal for press-in designs.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Press the old bearing out
   Move the knuckle (and hub if applicable) to a hydraulic press, or use an on-car bearing press kit if working in-vehicle. Support the knuckle on the press bed using sleeves that bear ONLY on the outer race seat — never on the aluminum knuckle face. Press the old bearing out in the correct direction per the bearing's shoulder. If the inner race remained on the hub flange, remove it with a bearing splitter or grinder relief + chisel (do not nick the hub).
   ⚠Improper press support can crack the aluminum knuckle. If unsure, remove the knuckle and take it to a machine shop.
7. 7

   Clean and inspect the knuckle bore
   Wire-brush the bearing bore in the knuckle. Inspect for scoring, ovaling, or cracks. A worn or damaged bore will spin the new bearing and ruin it within miles. Wipe clean and apply a light film of clean assembly lube to the bore.
8. 8

   Press in the new bearing
   Press the new bearing into the knuckle, applying force ONLY on the outer race using a properly sized driver. Press until fully seated against the knuckle shoulder. Never press through the inner race — this destroys the bearing instantly. If the bearing has a sealed/magnetic encoder side, install it facing the ABS sensor (typically the inboard side — confirm with bearing manufacturer instructions).
   ⚠️Pressing on the inner race transmits load through the balls/rollers and will cause premature failure even if the bearing 'feels' fine.
9. 9

   Press the hub flange into the new bearing
   Support the bearing's INNER race on a press fixture and press the hub flange through it. Pressing against the outer race at this stage will destroy the new bearing. Continue until the hub flange is fully seated.
10. 10

    Reinstall hub assembly to knuckle
    If the knuckle was removed, reinstall it to the upper/lower control arms and tie rod. Reattach the hub assembly to the knuckle (if it was a separate hub-to-knuckle design) with the hub bolts. Torque to the verified hub bolt specification.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Slide the outer CV stub through the hub splines. Apply a small amount of anti-seize on the splines (not on the threads).
2. Install a NEW axle nut. Do not fully torque yet — snug only until the wheel is back on the ground.
3. Reconnect tie rod end and ball joints. Torque all suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor and route the harness exactly as removed. Torque the sensor bolt to spec.
5. Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper assembly. Torque caliper bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
6. Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts.
7. Lower the vehicle until tires bear weight, then final-torque the axle nut to 250 Nm and stake/install new cotter pin as appropriate.
8. Final-torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 140 Nm.
9. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, spin the wheel by hand (lifted again briefly) — listen for any roughness or grinding from the new bearing.
• Power on the vehicle. Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings on the touchscreen. If a wheel speed sensor fault appears, recheck sensor seating and harness routing.
• Test drive at low speed first (under 25 mph) listening for hum, growl, or vibration. Then drive at highway speed and during gentle cornering — bearing noise typically changes with cornering load.
• Recheck axle nut staking / cotter pin after the test drive.
• After ~50 miles, recheck wheel lug nut torque (140 Nm) — Tesla's aluminum hub interface can settle slightly.
• While servicing, note other Tesla interval items: tire rotation every 6,250 mi, brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years, and front drive unit fluid inspection per current Tesla guidance (no longer 'lifetime').

More procedures for this vehicle