Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
5 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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drivetrain

Wheel Bearing Hub - Rear

for 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
11
Steps
13
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace the rear wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The rear hub on AWD models is splined to the half-shaft, so the axle nut must be removed and the half-shaft separated from the hub flange.

Warnings

⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cabling under the vehicle. Although this job does not require HV disconnection, orange cables run nearby — stop and consult a Tesla-certified tech if in doubt.
The axle nut is torqued to 200 Nm and may be staked. Loosen it ONLY with the wheel on the ground and the vehicle's weight on the tire — never with the vehicle in the air.
Model Y has aluminum suspension and body components. Do not strike control arms, knuckle, or subframe with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift.
Once the axle nut is removed, do not allow the vehicle's weight to rest on the wheel bearing — it will damage the new bearing.
ℹ️Regen braking will feel different until the wheel speed sensor recalibrates after a short drive. ABS/TC warnings should self-clear; if not, a scan tool may be required.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model Y, this is accessed under a panel in the front trunk area — follow Tesla's documented LV disconnect procedure.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Chock the front wheels.
  7. While the vehicle is still on the ground, break loose the rear wheel lug nuts and the rear axle nut on the affected side (axle nut may require a long breaker bar).
  8. Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points only — Model Y has designated puck locations; jacking elsewhere can damage the battery pack enclosure or pinch welds.
  9. Support the vehicle on jack stands rated for EV weight.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove rear wheel
    Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Set aside on its sidewall to protect the finish.
  2. 2
    Remove brake caliper and caliper bracket
    Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Support it with wire or a bungee — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Then remove the two caliper bracket bolts from the knuckle and set the bracket aside.
    Do not depress the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
  3. 3
    Remove brake rotor
    Remove the rotor retaining clip or screw if present and slide the rotor off the hub. If seized, apply penetrant to the hat and tap with a dead-blow mallet — do not strike the rotor face.
  4. 4
    Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
    Locate the wheel speed sensor on the knuckle. Remove its retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor. Unclip the harness from the knuckle and trailing arm so it is free of the hub area. Inspect the sensor tip for debris.
    ABS sensor tips are fragile. If seized, twist gently — do not pry against the knuckle bore.
  5. 5
    Remove axle nut and separate half-shaft from hub
    With the vehicle now safely supported, fully remove the previously loosened rear axle nut and discard if it is a single-use staked nut. Push the half-shaft splined stub inward to free it from the hub flange. If it is stuck, use a hub puller — do not hammer on the end of the axle.
    Support the half-shaft once free — letting it hang can damage the inner CV joint and seal.
    Torque spec
    Axle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Remove hub assembly mounting bolts
    From the inboard side of the knuckle, remove the four hub mounting bolts. Note bolt orientation. The hub assembly should now be free from the knuckle.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Remove old hub
    Pull the hub assembly off the knuckle. If corroded in place, tap evenly around the flange perimeter with a dead-blow mallet, or use a hub puller. Do not pry between the hub and the aluminum knuckle face.
    Aluminum knuckle — gouges in the mating surface will cause runout and premature bearing failure.
  8. 8
    Clean mating surfaces
    Thoroughly clean the knuckle bore and hub mating face. Remove all corrosion and debris. A light film of anti-seize on the pilot (not on the bolt threads) is acceptable. Inspect the knuckle for cracks or distortion.
  9. 9
    Install new hub assembly
    Position the new hub onto the knuckle, aligning bolt holes. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to hub mounting bolt threads if specified by the manufacturer. Install bolts hand-tight, then torque in a cross pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Reinstall half-shaft and axle nut
    Slide the half-shaft splines back through the new hub. Install a NEW axle nut (do not reuse if staked or single-use per OEM). Final torque is performed after the wheel is reinstalled and on the ground.
    Torque spec
    Axle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Reinstall ABS sensor
    Clean the sensor and its bore in the knuckle. Reinstall the sensor with its retaining bolt and re-clip the harness in its original routing.
  12. 12
    Reinstall rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper
    Place the rotor onto the new hub. Install the caliper bracket onto the knuckle with threadlocker on the bolts and torque to spec. Reinstall the caliper over the pads and torque the guide pin bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
  13. 13
    Reinstall wheel and final-torque axle nut
    Mount the wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Final-torque the axle nut, then the lug nuts in a star pattern. Stake the new axle nut if it is the staked type.
    Final axle nut torque must be done with vehicle weight on the wheel to prevent damaging the new bearing.
    Torque spec
    Axle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Confirm all fasteners are torqued to spec and the ABS sensor harness is fully clipped in.
  2. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
  3. With the brake pedal initially soft, pump the pedal several times before driving to seat the pads against the rotor.
  4. Allow the vehicle to wake fully and clear any transient ABS/traction-control warnings.

Verification

  • Drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area first — listen for grinding, humming, or clicking from the rear.
  • Confirm no ABS, traction-control, or stability-control warnings remain on the touchscreen after a short drive (wheel speed sensor must register pulses).
  • Verify regen braking behavior is normal; abnormal regen cut-out may indicate an unseated ABS sensor.
  • Re-check axle nut and lug nut torque after approximately 50 miles.
  • Since the wheel was off, this is a good opportunity to confirm tire rotation interval — Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi on Model Y due to high tire wear.
  • Inspect for grease weep around the hub seal after the first few drives.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

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More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
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