Replacement of upper and lower ball joints on the 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor). Note: this vehicle is built on a bespoke Tesla platform with very limited published service information — the original 2008 Roadster used a Lotus-derived chassis, but the new Roadster does not. Treat all chassis specifics as low-confidence and verify against the Tesla Service Manual before proceeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper ball joint assembly (manufacturer-specified) × 2 — OEM Tesla Roadster upper ball joint — verify against VIN
• Lower ball joint assembly (manufacturer-specified) × 2 — OEM Tesla Roadster lower ball joint — verify against VIN
• Cotter pins for ball joint nuts × 4 — Size per OEM specification
• Pinch bolt (new) × 2 — OEM single-use pinch bolt
• Control arm bolts (if specified single-use) — Verify reuse policy in Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery (12V/16V system per this vehicle's architecture). Refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the correct battery location and disconnect sequence on the new Roadster.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels (if servicing front) or front wheels (if servicing rear).
7. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle using manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. The Roadster is a low-clearance vehicle — use low-profile equipment.
9. Remove the wheels and set aside.
10. Photograph the suspension geometry and any shim/marker positions before disassembly to aid reassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document the suspension assembly
   With the wheel removed, inspect the upper and lower control arms, ball joints, knuckle, strut, sway bar link, and any sensor wiring (ABS, brake pad wear, ride-height). Document routing of all wiring and brake hose with photos. Confirm the ball joint design (bolt-in vs. pressed-in) before ordering tools — the new Roadster's design is not publicly documented; verify against the Service Manual.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar link from control arm
   Hold the sway bar link stud with an Allen key and remove the nut. Swing the link clear of the control arm. Inspect the link for play; replace if worn.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the knuckle and disconnect brake/sensor lines as needed
   Support the steering knuckle with a jack stand or strap to prevent it from hanging on the brake hose or wiring. Unclip ABS sensor and brake pad wear sensor harnesses from the control arm if they route across the joints being serviced. Do NOT disconnect hydraulic brake lines unless absolutely necessary.
   ⚠Never let the knuckle hang by the brake hose — it can damage the hose internally and cause a future failure.
4. 4

   Remove cotter pin and loosen upper ball joint nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut. Loosen the nut but leave it threaded on by a few turns to retain the joint while breaking the taper.
5. 5

   Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle
   Use a proper ball joint separator (press-style preferred) to break the taper. Avoid pickle-fork tools if the boot is to be reused. Once the taper releases, fully remove the nut and lift the knuckle off the upper joint stud.
   ⚠Do not strike aluminum knuckles or control arms with a steel hammer — damage may not be visible but can compromise the part.
6. 6

   Remove the upper ball joint from the control arm
   Depending on design, the ball joint will either: (a) unbolt from the control arm, (b) press out of the control arm, or (c) be integral to the control arm requiring full arm replacement. Follow the Tesla Service Manual for this VIN. If pressing, use a proper ball joint press — do not heat or hammer.
   ℹ️If the joint is integral to the control arm, the labor and parts list change — stop and reassess before proceeding.
7. 7

   Remove cotter pin and loosen lower ball joint nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut. Loosen but do not fully remove. Note: on some designs the lower joint is retained by a pinch bolt at the knuckle rather than a castle nut — verify before applying force.
   Torque spec

   Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle
   Use a ball joint separator to break the taper. Support the knuckle as it releases — the lower joint carries the suspension load and the knuckle can drop suddenly. Remove the nut (or pinch bolt) and free the knuckle.
   ⚠The knuckle will swing freely once the lower joint is released. Keep hands clear and ensure it is supported.
9. 9

   Remove the lower ball joint from the control arm
   Remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm per OEM procedure (unbolt or press out). Clean the mounting bore thoroughly. Inspect the control arm for cracks, corrosion, or elongation — replace the arm if any damage is found.
10. 10

    Install new lower ball joint
    Install the new lower ball joint into the control arm using the OEM-specified method (bolt-in to torque, or press to specified depth). Ensure the boot is seated and undamaged. Verify free, smooth rotation of the stud with no binding.
11. 11

    Install new upper ball joint
    Install the new upper ball joint into the upper control arm by the same OEM-specified method. Confirm boot orientation and that any grease fitting (if equipped) is accessible.
12. 12

    Reattach knuckle to lower then upper ball joints
    Lift the knuckle and seat the lower ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut (or new pinch bolt) finger-tight. Then seat the upper ball joint stud and install its castle nut finger-tight. Bring both nuts to specification.
    ⚠Use a NEW cotter pin on each castle nut. If the slot does not align at spec torque, tighten further to the next slot — never loosen to align.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install new cotter pins
    Insert new cotter pins through the castle nuts and ball joint studs. Bend the legs over per standard practice so they cannot back out.
14. 14

    Reconnect sway bar link
    Reattach the sway bar end link to the control arm, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Reattach sensor harnesses and reinstall wheels
    Reroute and clip in any ABS, pad-wear, or ride-height sensor harnesses exactly as documented. Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tires just contact the ground.
16. 16

    Final torque of control arm bolts at ride height
    If any control arm bolts were loosened during this procedure (e.g., to access the ball joints), they MUST be final-torqued with the vehicle's weight on the wheels to avoid preloading the bushings. Lower the vehicle fully before final torque.
    ⚠Torquing control arm bolts with the suspension drooping will damage bushings and cause premature failure.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
17. 17

    Torque lug nuts to spec
    With the vehicle fully on the ground, torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the low-voltage battery per the Tesla Service Manual sequence.
2. Allow the vehicle to power up fully and check for any chassis or stability control fault messages on the center display.
3. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock (engine off, then on) to allow steering angle and suspension sensors to re-baseline.
4. Schedule and perform a four-wheel alignment before any road driving. Ball joint replacement always changes alignment geometry.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension, ABS, stability control, or ride-height warnings on the touchscreen after reassembly.
• With the vehicle on the ground, push down on each corner and observe smooth, controlled rebound — no clunks or knocking.
• Test drive at low speed in a safe area and listen for any clunking over bumps or during steering input. Investigate any noise before highway use.
• Verify alignment is within Tesla specification for this VIN (toe, camber, caster) on a four-wheel alignment rack.
• Re-inspect ball joint torque and cotter pin retention after the first 100-200 miles of driving.
• Note: this job is not on a fixed Tesla service interval, but if brake fluid (2-year interval) or drive unit gear oil (initial 12,500 mi, then 25,000-50,000 mi) are due, consider performing them while the vehicle is already in the air.

More procedures for this vehicle