Rebuild of the front brake caliper on the 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor AWD). This vehicle is a low-volume, low-data platform; service literature is extremely limited, so generic best-practice brake caliper rebuild procedures are used with verified torque values only.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper rebuild kit (piston seals, dust boots, bleeder cap) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front caliper seal kit for this vehicle
• Caliper slide pin boots (if applicable) × 1 — OEM-equivalent slide pin boot kit
• Silicone brake grease (caliper-rated) × 1 — Caliper slide pin lubricant
• Threadlocker (medium-strength, blue) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
• Brake cleaner (chlorinated or non-chlorinated) × 2 — Aerosol brake parts cleaner
• Crush washers for banjo / line fittings (if equipped) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified sealing washers

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery. Refer to vehicle architecture documentation for exact battery location on this Roadster.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Confirm you have the correct front caliper rebuild kit on hand before disassembly — this is a low-volume vehicle and parts may have long lead times.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle and support on jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points. Do not lift on body panels — the Roadster uses a bonded/aluminum chassis sensitive to point loading.
9. Remove front wheels and set aside.
10. Place a catch pan beneath the caliper and have line plugs ready before disconnecting any hydraulic fittings.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document brake assembly
   Photograph the caliper, bracket, brake line routing, and any shims or hardware before disassembly. Note pad wear, rotor condition, and any signs of fluid leakage from the piston seal or line fittings.
2. 2

   Clamp the flexible brake hose
   Use a brake hose clamp on the rubber section of the front brake hose to minimize fluid loss from the master cylinder reservoir. Do not clamp on a hard line.
   ⚠Do not crush the hose so hard it damages internal reinforcement — use a purpose-built hose clamp, not pliers.
3. 3

   Disconnect brake line from caliper
   Using a line/flare-nut wrench, loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the caliper. Catch fluid in the pan. Immediately cap the line and the caliper port to prevent contamination. If the fitting uses crush washers, replace them on reassembly.
   ⚠Always use a line wrench — open-ended wrenches will round off the fitting.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the caliper slide pin bolts (or caliper bolts, depending on caliper design) and lift the caliper off the rotor. Note orientation. If the caliper bracket itself must be removed for full rebuild access, remove the caliper bracket bolts next.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove brake pads and hardware
   Remove the front brake pads, anti-rattle clips, shims, and any wear sensors. Inspect each component and set aside on a clean surface in the order they were removed.
6. 6

   Extract piston(s) from caliper body
   Place the caliper on a padded bench. Use low-pressure compressed air through the fluid inlet (with a wood block in the piston cavity to catch the piston) or a piston removal tool to extract the piston(s). Keep fingers clear — pistons can eject forcefully.
   ⚠️Compressed air can launch a piston with enough force to break bones. Always use a wood block as a stop and keep hands clear.
7. 7

   Remove old seals and clean caliper
   Carefully remove the dust boot and piston square-cut seal from the caliper bore using a non-metallic seal pick to avoid scoring the bore. Clean all components thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect the bore for pitting, scoring, or corrosion — if damaged, the caliper must be replaced, not rebuilt.
   ⚠Any scoring in the piston bore will cause the new seal to fail. Do not attempt to rebuild a corroded caliper.
8. 8

   Install new seals and piston
   Lubricate the new piston seal with clean DOT 3 brake fluid and install it in the bore groove. Install the new dust boot per the rebuild kit's orientation. Lubricate the piston with brake fluid and press it squarely back into the bore by hand until fully seated. Seat the dust boot lip into its groove.
   ⚠Use only fresh brake fluid as assembly lubricant — petroleum-based grease will destroy the rubber seals.
9. 9

   Service slide pins (if applicable)
   Clean the caliper slide pins and bores. Inspect pins and boots for wear or damage. Replace boots if torn. Apply silicone brake grease to the pins before reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall pads and reassemble caliper to bracket
    Install brake pads, anti-rattle clips, and shims into the bracket. Mount the caliper over the rotor and pads. Apply blue threadlocker to the caliper bolts and torque to specification. If the caliper bracket was removed, reinstall it first with threadlocker on the bracket bolts and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

    Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect brake line
    Reconnect the hydraulic line to the caliper using new crush washers if equipped. Use a line wrench and torque the fitting to specification. Remove the brake hose clamp.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Bleed the front brake circuit
    Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Bleed the front caliper at the bleeder screw using a vacuum or pressure bleeder until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. Repeat on the opposite front caliper if both were serviced. Torque the bleeder screw to specification — do not overtighten.
    ⚠Never let the master cylinder reservoir run dry during bleeding or you will introduce air into the ABS module, which on this vehicle may require Tesla service tools to fully purge.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify the master cylinder reservoir is filled to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.
2. Reinstall the front wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
5. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V) low-voltage battery.
6. Allow the vehicle to fully wake up and complete its self-checks before driving.

Verification

• With the vehicle stopped, pump the brake pedal several times until firm. The pedal should not sink slowly to the floor — if it does, air remains in the system or a fitting is leaking.
• Inspect the caliper, line fitting, and bleeder screw for any signs of fluid weeping after pedal pressurization.
• Check the instrument cluster / center display for any brake-related warnings (ABS, brake fluid level, etc.).
• Perform a low-speed (5–10 mph) brake test in a safe area, then a moderate-speed test, listening and feeling for pull, drag, or abnormal noise.
• Recheck fluid level after the test drive and top off as needed.
• Note: Tesla recommends a full brake fluid flush every 2 years regardless of mileage. If the existing fluid is past that interval, schedule a full system flush.
• After 50–100 miles, recheck caliper bolts and line fitting for tightness and inspect for leaks.

More procedures for this vehicle