suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Front Lower
for 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.5 h
Tools
12
Steps
8
Replace the front lower control arm bushing on a 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor AWD). Note: production-level service data for this vehicle is extremely limited; treat all chassis fasteners as requiring OEM verification before final torque.
Warnings
⚠️The 2024 Roadster is a high-voltage EV. Even though this is a chassis job, route all tools clear of any orange HV cabling under the vehicle. If you see any orange cable in the work area, stop.
⚠Service documentation for the 2024 Roadster Tri Motor is extremely limited at the time of writing. Verify all fastener specs, bushing orientation, and single-use fastener requirements against an official Tesla Service Manual before final assembly.
⚠Aluminum and composite chassis components may be present. Do NOT strike suspension components with a steel hammer — use a soft-face mallet or press only.
⚠Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts MUST be done with the suspension loaded at ride height. Torquing with the suspension hanging will pre-load the new bushing and cause premature failure.
ℹ️An alignment is required after any control arm or bushing service. Plan for a four-wheel alignment immediately after this job.
Tools required
Metric socket set (10–24mm)Essential
Metric combination wrenchesEssential
Calibrated torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)Essential
Hydraulic floor jackEssential
Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)Essential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod separatorEssential
Bushing press / hydraulic press with appropriate adaptersEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shafts)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / side cuttersEssential
Pry bar set
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Front lower control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — OEM front lower control arm bushing for 2024 Tesla Roadster — verify with Tesla parts before ordering
- Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — never reuse
- Control arm pivot bolt(s) × 1 — Replace if single-use / stretch type per OEM specification
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery. Refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the Roadster's specific LV battery location and disconnect procedure — do not assume it matches Model 3/Y/S/X.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle using OEM-specified jacking points and support securely on jack stands. Do not lift on battery pack edges or floor pan.
- Remove the front wheel(s) on the side being serviced.
- Inspect the work area for any orange HV cabling, sensors, or wiring harnesses routed near the lower control arm and protect/reroute as needed.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and documentPhotograph the front suspension assembly from multiple angles before disassembly. Note the orientation of the existing bushing, any alignment marks on cam bolts (if equipped), and the routing of any sensors (ABS, brake pad wear, ride height) attached to the control arm.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end linkHold the end link shaft with an Allen/hex key and remove the nut securing the sway bar end link to the lower control arm (or strut, depending on configuration). Swing the link clear of the work area.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Support the lower control armPlace a floor jack under the lower control arm with a wood block or rubber pad to spread the load. Apply just enough pressure to support the arm without lifting the vehicle off the stands. This preloads the ball joint and prevents the strut from extending unexpectedly.⚠Never work under a control arm supported only by a coil spring or strut without secondary support.
- 4Separate the lower ball jointRemove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint stud and discard it. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to catch the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator to break the taper. Once free, fully remove the nut and lower the knuckle clear of the ball joint stud. Support the knuckle with a bungee or stand — do not let it hang on the brake hose or any wiring.⚠Do not strike the knuckle with a hammer to free the taper — use a proper separator. Hammer blows can damage aluminum components and internal ball joint structure.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 5Remove control arm pivot boltsSlowly lower the floor jack supporting the control arm to release spring/strut preload (if any remains). Mark the position of any eccentric/cam alignment bolts before removal. Remove the inner control arm pivot bolt(s) that secure the arm to the subframe/chassis. Some bolts on this platform may be single-use — verify against the Tesla Service Manual.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 6Remove the lower control armManeuver the lower control arm out of the chassis. Take note of any shims, washers, or spacers and their orientation.
- 7Press out the old bushingSecure the control arm in a press or vise (protect aluminum surfaces with soft jaws). Using the manufacturer-specified bushing tool or appropriately sized press adapters, press the old bushing out in the OEM-specified direction. Inspect the bushing bore for damage, corrosion, or ovalization.⚠If the control arm is aluminum (likely on this platform), do not heat the bore with an open flame — this can weaken the metallurgy. Use only mechanical press force.
- 8Install the new bushingClean the bushing bore. Lightly lubricate with the OEM-specified bushing lubricant only (not grease — most modern bushings have rubber/elastomer that is incompatible with petroleum). Press the new bushing in squarely, in the OEM-specified orientation, until fully seated. Verify it sits flush per the service manual.⚠Bushing orientation can be directional — installing 180° off can cause noise, premature wear, and altered geometry. Confirm orientation with Tesla service documentation.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the lower control arm into the subframe/chassis. Hand-thread the pivot bolt(s) — do not torque yet.
- Raise the control arm with the floor jack to align the ball joint stud with the knuckle. Insert the stud and install the ball joint nut. Torque the ball joint nut to spec and install a NEW cotter pin (Ball Joint Nut: 88 Nm / 65 lb-ft).
- Reattach the sway bar end link to the control arm. Hold the shaft with an Allen key and torque the nut (Sway Bar Link Nuts: 55 Nm / 41 lb-ft).
- Reinstall any sensors, brackets, or wiring previously removed.
- Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground so full vehicle weight sits on the suspension.
- With the suspension loaded at ride height, torque the control arm pivot bolt(s) to spec (Control Arm Bolts: 165 Nm / 122 lb-ft). This is critical — torquing unloaded will damage the new bushing.
- Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern (Wheel Lug Nuts: 136 Nm / 100 lb-ft).
- Reconnect the low-voltage battery per the Tesla Service Manual procedure for this vehicle.
- Allow the vehicle to complete any wake/initialization sequence before driving.
Verification
- Perform a four-wheel alignment immediately. Any control arm or bushing service alters geometry — driving extended distances out of alignment will scrub tires.
- Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks, squeaks, or steering pull. The new bushing should be silent.
- Re-inspect the ball joint cotter pin, sway bar link, and pivot bolts after the first ~50 miles for any sign of loosening or movement.
- Check the Tesla touchscreen for any new chassis, ABS, or stability control fault messages after the first drive cycle.
- Note: while you are in the front suspension area, this is a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid condition — Tesla recommends brake fluid service every 2 years regardless of mileage.
- If unusual noises, vibration, or handling changes occur, stop driving and re-verify all torque values against the Tesla Service Manual.