Replace the rear lower control arm bushing on the 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor. This vehicle is a low-volume, pre-production-class platform with limited public service documentation — proceed only with OEM service data in hand.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified for Roadster rear suspension) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster rear control arm bushing — confirm via VIN
• New cotter pin for ball joint nut × 1 — Size to match OEM ball joint castellated nut
• Replacement self-locking nuts/bolts as called out by service manual × 1 — OEM specification — replace any single-use fasteners

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery (12V/16V/48V as equipped). Location varies on the Roadster — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for this VIN.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels.
7. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified lift points and support on rated jack stands. The Roadster's lift points are model-specific — refer to the Service Manual.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
10. Confirm you have the correct replacement bushing and any single-use fasteners on hand before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and photograph the rear suspension
   Before disassembly, photograph the rear suspension from multiple angles. Note alignment marks on cam bolts/eccentrics if present — these set rear toe/camber and must be returned to the same position to preserve alignment as closely as possible. An alignment is still recommended after the job.
2. 2

   Support the rear hub assembly
   Place a floor jack with a soft pad under the rear hub/upright to support its weight. This prevents the hub from dropping and stressing the half-shaft, brake line, and any wheel-speed/wiring once the control arm is freed.
   ⚠Do not let the hub hang on the half-shaft or brake hose.
3. 3

   Disconnect the sway bar end link
   Remove the sway bar link from the control arm. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen/hex key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning. Set the link aside.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint (if integral to this arm)
   If the rear control arm being serviced terminates in a ball joint at the upright, remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the ball joint stud. Separate the ball joint from the upright using a proper ball joint separator. Do not reuse the cotter pin.
   ⚠Avoid pickle-fork damage to the ball joint boot if the joint will be reused.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Disconnect strut from arm (if required for clearance)
   If the rear strut bolts to this control arm and removal is needed for bushing access or arm removal, mark the strut's eccentric (camber) bolt position, then remove the strut-to-arm fasteners. Otherwise leave the strut connected.
   Torque spec

   Strut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the inboard control arm bolt(s)
   Mark the position of any eccentric/cam washers used for alignment. Remove the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) at the subframe. Support the arm as the bolt is withdrawn — the arm will become free.
   ℹ️Cam bolts/washers must be reinstalled in the same orientation to retain approximate alignment.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the control arm from the vehicle
   With both ends free, remove the control arm. Inspect the arm for cracks, corrosion, and elongation of the bushing bore. If the arm shows any structural damage, replace the arm rather than just the bushing.
8. 8

   Press out the old bushing
   Using a hydraulic press or proper bushing service tool with correctly sized drivers and receivers, press the old bushing out of the control arm. Support the arm so press force passes through the bushing bore only — not through the arm structure. Do not heat aluminum arms with an open flame.
   ⚠Improper press support will distort or crack the control arm. If unsure, replace the complete arm.
9. 9

   Install the new bushing
   Clean the bore. Lubricate only as specified by the bushing manufacturer (many rubber bushings require dry installation; some polyurethane bushings require silicone grease). Press the new bushing in squarely to the depth specified by the manufacturer. Verify it is centered in the bore.
10. 10

    Reinstall the control arm
    Position the arm on the vehicle. Start the inboard pivot bolt(s) by hand, returning any eccentric/cam washers to their marked orientation. Reconnect the outboard end (ball joint or bolted connection) and reinstall the strut-to-arm fasteners if removed. Snug all fasteners but DO NOT final-torque the control arm pivot bolts yet.
    ⚠Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts must be applied at ride height, not with the suspension hanging.
11. 11

    Reconnect ball joint and sway bar link
    Torque the ball joint nut to specification and install a NEW cotter pin — never reuse. Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the internal shaft with a hex key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Torque the strut fasteners (if disconnected)
    If the strut was disconnected from the arm or tower, torque the strut bolts and any strut tower nuts to specification. Return any eccentric strut bolt to its marked position.
    Torque spec

    Strut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)

    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall the rear wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts, then snug in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire is just touching the ground (or fully on the ground) so the suspension is loaded at ride height.
14. 14

    Final-torque control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle's weight on the wheels (suspension at ride height), final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification. This sets the bushing at its neutral position and is critical for bushing life.
    ⚠Skipping ride-height torque is the #1 cause of premature bushing failure on this type of suspension.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Torque lug nuts and reconnect 12V
    Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Reconnect the low-voltage battery. Allow the vehicle to wake and complete its self-checks before driving.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all fasteners are torqued to OEM specification — anything not on the verified torque list must be looked up in the Tesla Service Manual.
2. Verify the new cotter pin is fully seated and bent over per OEM pattern.
3. Confirm sway bar link, strut, and control arm are free of contact with brake lines, wiring, or HV cabling routed in the rear of the vehicle.
4. Reinstall any underbody panels, fasteners, or aero shields removed for access.
5. Reconnect the low-voltage battery and allow the vehicle to fully boot before any test drive.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, bounce the rear corner and listen for clunks or knocks — any noise indicates an under-torqued or misseated component.
• Confirm there are no chassis or suspension warnings on the center display after a key cycle.
• Perform a low-speed drive in a safe area; check that the vehicle tracks straight and there is no abnormal noise from the rear suspension.
• A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after rear control arm/bushing service — book this immediately. Eccentric mark transfer is a best-effort approximation only.
• Re-inspect fastener torque after the first 100–200 miles, particularly the control arm pivot bolts.
• While the vehicle is up, take the opportunity to note service intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 2 years, drive unit gear oil per Tesla's updated 12,500 mi initial / 25,000–50,000 mi interval guidance, and battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi.

More procedures for this vehicle