Replacement of EV coolant lines on the 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor. This vehicle's architecture is not publicly documented in detail; this procedure covers accessible low-voltage coolant plumbing only and explicitly excludes any HV battery thermal loop work.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Replacement EV coolant line(s) — manufacturer-specified for Roadster Tri Motor × 1 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual / parts catalog for this VIN
• O-rings / quick-connect seals (as required by line type) × 1 — OEM replacement seals
• Spring-band or worm-gear hose clamps (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM-equivalent

Fluids

• Tesla Battery/Motor Coolant (G-48 specification) — 10 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery per the manufacturer-specified procedure for this Roadster.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Allow the vehicle to cool completely (minimum 2 hours after last drive) before opening the coolant system.
7. Identify, in writing, exactly which coolant line(s) are being replaced and confirm they are NOT part of the HV battery thermal loop. If unsure, stop.
8. Raise and support the vehicle on a lift or properly rated jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
9. Place a catch pan under the work area; the system holds approximately 10 quarts of coolant.

Procedure

1. 1

   Identify and document line routing
   Photograph the coolant line(s) to be replaced from multiple angles, including all connection points, clamp locations, and routing through brackets. The Roadster Tri Motor's plumbing layout is not widely documented; your photos are your only reliable reassembly reference.
2. 2

   Remove access covers and underbody panels
   Remove any belly pan, splash shield, or trim panel needed to access the target coolant line(s). Keep fasteners organized by location. Use a trim tool — do not pry against composite panels.
   ⚠The Roadster shares chassis lineage with the Lotus Elise platform on early units; expect non-Tesla-style fasteners and panel clips.
   Torque spec

   Cover Screws11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Relieve coolant system pressure
   With the system cold, slowly open the coolant reservoir cap to release any residual pressure. Leave the cap loose to assist draining.
   ⚠Hot coolant under pressure can cause severe burns. Do NOT open the cap on a warm system.
4. 4

   Drain coolant
   Position the catch pan beneath the lowest accessible drain or fitting in the loop being serviced. Open the manufacturer-specified drain point and allow the coolant to fully drain. Capture all fluid for proper disposal — Tesla coolant is not to be poured to ground or storm drain.
5. 5

   Disconnect sensors and connectors on the affected line
   If the coolant line being replaced has an inline temperature sensor or quick-connect electrical connector, release the locking tab and disconnect. Do not pull on the wiring harness.
   Torque spec

   Connector Bolts7 Nm (5 lb-ft)

   Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Loosen and remove hose clamps / fittings
   For spring-band clamps, use hose clamp pliers and slide clear of the fitting boss. For threaded fittings, loosen with the correct flare/line wrench to avoid rounding. For quick-connect fittings, depress the locking collar evenly and pull straight off — never pry sideways.
   ⚠Residual coolant will spill from any fitting opened — keep the catch pan in position.
   Torque spec

   Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)

   Coolant Line Fittings15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Release line from chassis brackets
   Remove bracket bolts and any retaining clips securing the line to the chassis. Note the orientation of any anti-chafe sleeves or heat shields.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Remove the old coolant line
   Carefully extract the line, taking care not to damage adjacent harnesses, sensors, or composite panels. Plug both ends with clean shop towels or fitting caps to prevent foreign material entering the system.
   ⚠️If the line you are removing terminates at the HV battery pack, an HV drive unit, or a sealed thermal valve assembly, STOP immediately. This is outside the scope of this procedure.
9. 9

   Inspect mating surfaces
   Inspect each fitting boss for corrosion, scoring, or residual O-ring debris. Clean with a lint-free cloth. Replace any O-ring or seal supplied with the new line. Do not reuse old seals on quick-connect fittings.
10. 10

    Install the replacement coolant line
    Route the new line identically to the original (refer to your photos). Seat each fitting fully — quick-connects should produce an audible click and resist a pull-back tug test. Hand-start all threaded fittings to avoid cross-threading.
    Torque spec

    Coolant Line Fittings15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Secure brackets and clamps
    Reinstall the line into all chassis brackets and torque bracket fasteners. Position hose clamps at their original locations (witness marks visible on the hose) and torque to spec.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)

    Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reconnect sensors and electrical connectors
    Reconnect any temperature sensor or harness connector removed earlier. Verify locking tabs fully engage.
    Torque spec

    Connector Bolts7 Nm (5 lb-ft)

    Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall any belly pan, splash shield, or access cover removed for access; torque cover screws to spec.
2. Refill the coolant system with Tesla Battery/Motor Coolant (G-48 specification). Approximate fill capacity is 10 quarts; actual fill will depend on how much of the loop was drained.
3. Use a vacuum-fill (Airlift-style) tool to pull the system to vacuum and draw coolant in — this is strongly recommended on EV thermal systems to avoid trapped air pockets.
4. Top up the reservoir to the cold-fill mark and install the cap.
5. Reconnect the low-voltage battery per the manufacturer-specified sequence.
6. Lower the vehicle.

Verification

• With the cap secured, power the vehicle on and allow the thermal management system to circulate. Monitor the coolant reservoir level and top up to the cold-fill line as air purges.
• Inspect every fitting, clamp, and bracket replaced for any sign of weeping or drip — repeat after a short test drive and again after the vehicle has cooled.
• Check the touchscreen for any thermal-system, coolant-level, or pack-temperature alerts. Any new fault code after this procedure is a stop-and-diagnose event.
• Verify no coolant pooling on the underbody pan after the vehicle sits overnight.
• Record service date and mileage. Tesla's current guidance is to inspect battery coolant every 4 years / 50,000 mi — log this service against that interval.
• If any HV-related warning, reduced-power message, or thermal fault appears, do NOT continue driving — have the vehicle evaluated by a Tesla-certified technician.

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