Replacement of a front lower control arm on the 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor. This vehicle is a low-confidence platform with very limited public service data; many front suspension components may share heritage with sports-car platforms rather than other Teslas, so verify hardware against the OEM service manual before final torque.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Lower Control Arm Assembly (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Roadster) × 1 — OEM front LCA — verify side-specific (LH/RH) per Tesla parts catalog
• New ball joint cotter pin × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin sized to ball joint castle nut
• Control arm pivot bolts/nuts (if single-use) × 2 — Replace if specified as single-use by service manual
• Front wheel alignment (post-repair service) × 1 — Four-wheel alignment to Tesla Roadster specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery per the Tesla Roadster service manual. Refer to architecture notes for the actual location on this vehicle.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using manufacturer-specified jacking points and support securely on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
8. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
9. Visually inspect the area for any orange HV cabling, sensor harnesses (ride height, ABS, brake pad wear), and routing clips. Photograph routing before disturbing anything.
10. Apply penetrating oil to the ball joint stud, sway bar link, and control arm pivot bolts and allow to soak.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the lower control arm
   Place a floor jack with a rubber pad under the lower control arm or spring perch area to support the suspension load. Take up just enough load to neutralize the spring/strut preload. Do NOT lift the vehicle off the stands.
   ⚠The coil spring/strut assembly is under significant load. Improper support can cause the assembly to release violently when the ball joint is separated.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link
   Remove the sway bar end link from the control arm (or strut, depending on this chassis's configuration). Use an Allen/hex key to hold the link's internal shaft from spinning while loosening the nut. Swing the link out of the way.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disconnect any sensors or harnesses routed on the control arm
   Carefully release wheel speed sensor cabling, ride-height sensor links (if equipped), and brake hose brackets that route along or through the control arm. Do not pull on wires. Set sensor leads aside without strain.
   ℹ️If you see any orange-jacketed cable in the area, STOP — this is not a normal routing for a control arm and indicates you are in the wrong area.
4. 4

   Separate the lower ball joint from the upright/knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut and discard it. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to catch the joint. Use a press-type ball joint separator to break the taper. Once free, fully remove the nut and lower the joint clear of the upright. Avoid pickle-fork tools if the boot is to be retained.
   ⚠Do not allow the upright/knuckle to hang by the brake hose, ABS sensor, or HV/LV harness. Support it with a bungee or stand.
5. 5

   Mark and remove the inboard control arm pivot bolts
   Mark the orientation of any cam/eccentric bolts (if present) with a paint pen to preserve approximate alignment. Support the control arm, then remove the inboard pivot bolts/nuts securing the control arm to the subframe/chassis. Lower the arm and remove from the vehicle.
   ⚠Pivot bolts may be specified as single-use torque-to-yield. Verify against the Tesla Service Manual and replace if required.
6. 6

   Inspect mating surfaces and related components
   Inspect the subframe mounting points, ball joint taper bore in the upright, sway bar bushings, strut lower mount, and brake/ABS components for wear or damage. Clean threads in the chassis. Compare the new control arm side-by-side with the old one to confirm correct part and side.
7. 7

   Install the new lower control arm — inboard first, hand-tight
   Position the new control arm into the subframe brackets. Install the pivot bolts in their original orientation (matching your alignment marks for any cam bolts). Run the nuts on hand-tight only — final torque happens at ride height.
8. 8

   Reconnect the ball joint to the upright
   Insert the ball joint stud into the upright taper. Install the castle nut and tighten to the specified torque. If the cotter pin slot does not align, tighten further (never loosen) to the next slot. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per service manual.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect the sway bar end link
   Reattach the sway bar end link to the control arm (or strut, per this chassis). Hold the internal shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reattach sensors and brake hose brackets
    Route the wheel speed sensor cable, brake hose, and any ride height sensor link back into their original clips. Confirm there is no strain at full lock or full droop. Verify no wiring is pinched against the control arm.
11. 11

    Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
    Mount the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire is on the ground (or onto drive-on ramps/scissor lift) so that full vehicle weight is on the suspension. This is required before final pivot bolt torque.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque the control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle weight on the wheels and the suspension at ride height, torque the inboard control arm pivot bolts/nuts to specification. Torquing while the suspension is hanging will permanently preload the bushings and shorten their life.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final lug nut torque
    Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star/cross pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery and reinstall any covers removed during disconnection.
2. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the wheels on the ground and confirm no binding, rubbing, or unusual noise.
3. Visually re-inspect the ball joint cotter pin, sway bar link, and pivot bolts for correct installation.
4. Schedule a four-wheel alignment to Tesla Roadster specification before returning the car to normal use.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension or steering warnings on the instrument cluster after the 12V is reconnected and the vehicle has fully woken up.
• Test drive at low speed first: check for pulling, clunks, or steering wheel offset. Any clunk on bumps indicates a torque or assembly error — re-inspect immediately.
• Recheck the ball joint castle nut for cotter pin engagement and the pivot bolts after the first 100–200 miles.
• Have the vehicle aligned on a four-wheel alignment rack — control arm replacement always changes camber and may change caster.
• While the vehicle is in the air for inspection, take the opportunity to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and tire wear (Tesla recommends rotation every ~6,250 mi). These intervals are easy to address during a suspension service.

More procedures for this vehicle