suspension
Lower Control Arm - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
8
Steps
13
Replacement of a rear lower control arm on the 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor). This vehicle's chassis lineage and parts availability are limited; verify component specifications against current Tesla service documentation before proceeding.
Warnings
⚠️The 2024 Roadster uses a high-voltage battery system. Although this is a chassis job, do NOT touch or pierce any orange cabling routed near the rear subframe or floor pan.
⚠This vehicle's service information is sparse and not widely published. If hardware does not match documentation, STOP and verify with Tesla Service before proceeding.
⚠Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts MUST be applied with suspension loaded at ride height, otherwise bushings will be preloaded incorrectly and fail prematurely.
ℹ️Aluminum suspension and body components are common on this platform — do not strike with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or brass drift.
⚠A four-wheel alignment is required after any control arm replacement.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)Essential
Torque wrench (20–150 lb-ft range)Essential
Metric socket and wrench setEssential
Ball joint separator / pickle forkEssential
Cotter pin pliersEssential
Breaker bar
Penetrating oil
Drive-on ramps or alignment-friendly support (for final torque under load)
Parts
- Rear lower control arm assembly (manufacturer-specified for Roadster Tri Motor) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear LCA — confirm with Tesla Parts
- Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin
- Control arm pivot hardware (if specified as single-use) × 1 — OEM specification — replace if Tesla service manual lists as one-time-use
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery per the manufacturer-specified procedure for this Roadster.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified lift points and support securely on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
- Inspect the work area for any orange HV cabling, sensor harnesses, or coolant lines routed near the rear suspension and note their paths before disturbing anything.
Procedure
- 1Document and photograph existing geometryPhotograph the control arm orientation, eccentric/cam bolt positions, and any alignment marks. Mark the position of cam bolts with a paint pen so the new arm can be installed in approximately the same alignment position to allow driving to an alignment shop.
- 2Support the rear hub assemblyPlace a jack with a soft pad under the rear hub/upright to support its weight. This prevents the hub from dropping and stressing the brake hose, ABS sensor wiring, or any drive unit components when the control arm is disconnected.⚠Do not allow the hub assembly to hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor harness.
- 3Disconnect sway bar end linkIf the sway bar end link attaches to the lower control arm, remove the link nut while holding the stud with an Allen key on the flats provided. Set hardware aside, organized by location.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 4Disconnect lower strut/shock mount if requiredIf the lower shock absorber bolt passes through the lower control arm on this chassis, remove the strut-to-arm bolt. Support the strut so it does not fall. If the strut does not attach to the LCA on this specific arm, skip this step.Torque specStrut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
- 5Separate the ball jointRemove and discard the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the threads and prevent the joint from popping free uncontrolled. Separate the ball joint taper using a proper ball joint separator. Once free, fully remove the nut.⚠Do not strike the upright with a steel hammer — use a separator tool to avoid damaging aluminum components or boot.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 6Remove inboard control arm pivot boltsSupport the control arm. Remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) securing the control arm to the subframe. Note the orientation of any cam/eccentric washers and the direction the bolt was installed. Withdraw the bolts and lower the control arm out of the vehicle.ℹ️Pivot bolts may be tight from corrosion or thread locker — apply penetrating oil and use a breaker bar as needed.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 7Compare old and new armsLay the new control arm next to the old one. Confirm bushing locations, ball joint position, sway bar mount, strut mount (if applicable), and overall geometry match. Transfer any reusable hardware or brackets per the manufacturer-specified procedure.⚠If the new arm does not match exactly, STOP. Verify the correct part number for this Roadster Tri Motor before proceeding.
- 8Install new control arm — inboard sidePosition the new control arm into the subframe mount. Install the pivot bolt(s) in the same direction as removed, with cam/eccentric washers oriented to your reference marks. Thread nuts on hand-tight only — do not final torque yet.
- 9Reconnect ball jointRaise the hub assembly with the support jack to align the ball joint stud with the control arm. Seat the taper, install a NEW castle nut (or reuse per OEM specification), and torque to spec. Install a NEW cotter pin; if castle nut slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until they align.⚠️A missing or reused cotter pin can allow the ball joint to back off and cause loss of vehicle control. Always use a new cotter pin.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect strut and sway bar linkIf disconnected, reinstall the strut-to-arm bolt and torque to spec. Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key, and torque the nut to spec.Torque specStrut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to load suspensionReinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so its full weight is on the wheels (or use drive-on ramps that allow access to the inboard pivot bolt). The suspension MUST be at ride height before final torque on the control arm pivot bolts.
- 12Final torque on inboard pivot bolts (loaded)With the vehicle weight on the wheels, torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification. This sets the bushings at neutral preload at ride height.⚠Torquing pivot bolts with the suspension hanging will preload the bushings and cause premature failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Final torque lug nutsTorque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reconnect the 12V/LV battery per the manufacturer-specified procedure.
- Cycle the ignition and confirm no chassis or stability control faults are present.
- Verify all tools and hardware are accounted for and removed from under the vehicle.
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — drive directly to alignment if possible, using the cam bolt reference marks made during disassembly to keep the vehicle drivable in the meantime.
Verification
- Visually inspect the new control arm, ball joint, and pivot bolts after a short test drive — confirm no movement, no contact with adjacent components, and cotter pin still in place.
- Confirm absence of clunks, knocks, or steering pull during a low-speed test drive in a safe area.
- Perform a four-wheel alignment to OEM specification — REQUIRED after any control arm replacement.
- Recheck pivot bolt torque after the first 100–500 miles, per typical suspension service practice.
- Note: this job does not affect Tesla service intervals (brake fluid every 2 years, drive unit gear oil per Tesla's updated 12,500 mi initial / 25,000–50,000 mi schedule, coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi). Verify these are up to date during the same shop visit if practical.