Replace the upper strut bearing (top mount bearing) on the 2024 Tesla Roadster. Note: this vehicle's chassis architecture is largely derived from a Lotus-platform lineage and exact factory service data is limited — proceed with caution and verify all fasteners against the OEM service manual before final torque.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Strut bearing / upper mount bearing (OEM-spec) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified strut bearing for 2024 Roadster — verify with OEM
• Cotter pin (if ball joint is disturbed) × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• Strut top nut (single-use, if specified by OEM) × 1 — OEM-spec self-locking nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery. See architecture notes for location — refer to OEM documentation if uncertain.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen wheel lug nuts on the affected corner while the vehicle is still on the ground.
7. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points. Do NOT lift on the battery enclosure or floor pans.
8. Remove the wheel and visually inspect the strut, upper mount, knuckle, ball joint, and sway bar link for damage before disassembly.
9. Photograph alignment marks on the strut, knuckle, and any cam bolts before loosening anything.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect sway bar end link
   Separate the sway bar end link from the strut (or lower control arm, depending on configuration). Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning.
2. 2

   Support the lower control arm
   Place a jack under the lower control arm to support the spring load and prevent the knuckle/hub assembly from dropping when the strut is unbolted. Apply only light upward pressure.
3. 3

   Disconnect brake line / ABS sensor bracket if needed
   If brake hose or ABS wiring is clipped to the strut body, unclip it carefully. Do not stretch or kink the brake hose. Do not open the hydraulic brake circuit.
   ⚠Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose if removed — support it with a hook or strap.
4. 4

   Separate strut from steering knuckle
   Remove the strut-to-knuckle through-bolts. Note orientation of any eccentric/cam bolts for camber and mark them before removal. Tap the knuckle gently with a soft mallet if the strut is seized in the knuckle bore.
   Torque spec

   Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove strut tower nuts
   From inside the appropriate access point (front trunk or wheel well, depending on configuration), support the strut from below and remove the upper strut tower nuts. Do NOT remove the center top nut at this stage.
   ⚠️Removing the center strut top nut while the spring is uncompressed will release the spring violently. The center nut comes off only AFTER the spring is fully compressed on the bench.
   Torque spec

   Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove strut assembly from vehicle
   Maneuver the complete strut/spring assembly out of the wheel well. The assembly is heavy and awkward — use two hands and watch for paint contact on body panels.
7. 7

   Compress the coil spring
   Mount the strut in a soft-jaw vise by its lower bracket (never by the damper tube). Install an external spring compressor symmetrically on the coil and compress only until the upper spring seat is no longer loaded by the spring.
   ⚠️Verify spring compressor hooks are fully seated on the coils and are not slipping before applying force.
8. 8

   Remove top nut and disassemble upper mount
   Hold the strut shaft with the manufacturer-specified tool (or hex on the shaft end) and remove the center top nut. Lift off the upper mount, the strut bearing (the part being replaced), the upper spring seat, and the bump stop / dust boot in order. Lay components out in assembly orientation.
9. 9

   Inspect and replace the strut bearing
   Compare the new bearing to the old one for orientation, ID/OD, and height. Inspect the upper spring seat, isolator, bump stop, and dust boot — replace any that are cracked, collapsed, or torn. Pack the new bearing only if the OEM design calls for it; most modern sealed bearings are pre-lubricated.
10. 10

    Reassemble strut
    Reinstall the bump stop, dust boot, lower spring isolator (if separate), and the compressed spring onto the strut shaft, ensuring the spring end is seated in the lower seat's locator. Install the upper spring seat aligned to its index mark, then the new bearing, then the upper mount. Install the top nut and torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
    ⚠Spring ends must seat fully in both upper and lower seat pockets before decompression. A misaligned spring will cause noise, ride height error, and possible failure.
11. 11

    Decompress spring and verify alignment
    Slowly and evenly release the spring compressor while watching that both spring ends remain seated. Confirm the upper mount studs align to the same orientation as on disassembly (relative to the lower bracket) — strut clocking matters.

Reassembly

1. Install the strut into the tower; start the strut tower nuts by hand and torque to spec (Strut Tower Nuts).
2. Reinsert the strut into the steering knuckle, restoring any camber cam bolt to its marked position. Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts to spec (Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts).
3. Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key, and torque (Sway Bar Link Nuts).
4. Reattach any brake hose / ABS sensor brackets to the strut.
5. If a ball joint or control arm fastener was disturbed, reinstall with a NEW cotter pin (Ball Joint Nut) and torque control arm bolts at ride height (Control Arm Bolts).
6. Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts.
7. Lower the vehicle until the suspension is at ride height before final-torquing any rubber-bushed control arm fasteners.
8. Final-torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern (Wheel Lug Nuts).
9. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, turn the steering lock-to-lock and listen for clicking, popping, or grinding from the upper strut area — a faulty or misinstalled bearing is most audible during slow steering input.
• Bounce-test the corner: motion should damp within 1-2 cycles with no metallic noise from the top mount.
• Visually confirm ride height is symmetric side-to-side; a re-clocked spring or misaligned upper mount will show as a height difference.
• Test drive at low speed over uneven pavement; listen for clunks on compression and rebound.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed — any strut R&R changes camber and possibly caster on this platform.
• Re-check all critical fasteners (strut tower nuts, strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link, lug nuts) after the first 50-100 miles.
• Service-interval reminder while the vehicle is in the air: brake fluid is due every 2 years regardless of mileage on Tesla vehicles, and tire rotation is recommended every ~6,250 miles — good time to inspect both.

More procedures for this vehicle