Replace worn subframe bushings on the 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor. Note: this vehicle's chassis architecture is not well-documented publicly; verify all fastener locations against the Tesla Service Manual before proceeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Subframe bushing set (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — Refer to Tesla parts catalog for 2024 Roadster — confirm front vs rear subframe
• Subframe mounting bolts (replace if single-use / torque-to-yield) × 4 — Per Tesla Service Manual — replace if specified as TTY
• Cotter pin (if ball joint is disturbed) × 2 — Generic, sized to ball joint castle nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery per the Tesla Service Manual for this vehicle.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Confirm you have the correct subframe bushing kit (front vs rear) and verify part applicability for the 2024 Roadster Tri Motor.
7. Review the Tesla Service Manual section for the affected subframe before disassembly — fastener counts, sequence, and any single-use bolts must be confirmed from OEM documentation.
8. Mark the subframe-to-body alignment with a paint pen before loosening any mounting fasteners to preserve baseline alignment reference.
9. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground, then raise the vehicle on a lift or jack stands rated for its weight.

Procedure

1. 1

   Raise vehicle and remove wheels
   Raise the vehicle on a lift or supported jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points. Remove the wheels on the affected axle (or all four if dropping a full subframe).
   ⚠Use only Tesla-approved lift pad locations to avoid damaging the chassis or any HV components routed underneath.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Remove underbody panels and shielding
   Remove the underbody aero/skid panels, splash shields, and any covers obstructing access to the subframe. Note fastener locations and lengths — they are not all interchangeable. Inspect for any orange HV cable routing or HV connectors before proceeding; if any are present in the work area, STOP and reassess.
   ⚠️Stop immediately if orange HV cabling is exposed near the subframe area. Do not flex, pinch, or strain HV cables.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end links
   Disconnect the sway bar end links from the control arm or strut (whichever applies). Hold the stud with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate steering and brake components (as needed)
   If the subframe carries the steering rack or routes brake lines, support or detach them per the Tesla Service Manual. Do NOT let calipers hang from flex hoses — support with a hook or bungee. If the steering shaft must be disconnected, mark the splines first to preserve clocking.
5. 5

   Disconnect ball joints and control arm outboard ends
   If subframe removal requires it, separate the lower ball joint from the upright using a press-style separator. Do not reuse the cotter pin. Avoid striking aluminum control arms with a hammer.
   ⚠A new cotter pin is required on reassembly. The ball joint nut is a critical fastener.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Support subframe with transmission jack
   Position a transmission jack or subframe support fixture under the subframe and raise it just enough to take the weight off the mounting points. Confirm the jack is centered and stable before removing fasteners.
7. 7

   Mark and remove subframe mounting bolts
   Confirm the paint pen alignment marks made during preparation are visible. Loosen the subframe-to-body mounting bolts in the sequence specified by the Tesla Service Manual. Lower the subframe slowly on the jack, watching for any cables, hoses, or lines that may still be attached. If the manual specifies these bolts as torque-to-yield or single-use, replace them.
   ⚠️Lower the subframe slowly. Catching an HV cable, brake line, or wiring harness can cause severe damage or injury.
8. 8

   Remove old bushings
   With the subframe lowered or removed, press out the old bushings using a hydraulic press and the manufacturer-specified bushing tool, or use an in-situ bushing removal kit if the subframe stays on the vehicle. Inspect the bushing bores for cracks, corrosion, or distortion. Clean thoroughly.
   ⚠Do not heat aluminum subframe components with an open flame to free stuck bushings — this weakens the structure.
9. 9

   Install new bushings
   Press in the new bushings using the manufacturer-specified driver, ensuring correct orientation (many bushings are directional and have alignment marks or voids that must point fore/aft or laterally). Press to the depth specified by the OEM. Do not lubricate rubber bushings with petroleum products — use only the lubricant specified by the bushing manufacturer, if any.
10. 10

    Reinstall subframe
    Raise the subframe back into position on the transmission jack. Align to the paint marks made earlier. Start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Snug, then torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the subframe-to-body bolt torque sequence and value (this value is not in the verified list and must not be guessed).
    ⚠Subframe-to-body bolt torque is not in the verified database. Use the Tesla Service Manual value — do not estimate.

Reassembly

1. Reconnect ball joints with new cotter pins; torque the ball joint nut to spec and only tighten further (never back off) to align the cotter pin slot.
2. Reattach control arms; final torque on control arm bolts must be performed with the vehicle's weight on the wheels to set the bushings at ride height.
3. Reconnect sway bar end links, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing.
4. Reconnect steering shaft (if disturbed) aligned to the marks made earlier.
5. Reinstall any brake line brackets, harness clips, and shields that were removed. Verify nothing is pinched or rubbing.
6. Reinstall underbody panels and skid plates with the original fasteners in their original locations.
7. Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
8. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
9. Lower the vehicle to the ground and perform final torque on the control arm bolts at ride height.

Verification

• Perform a full four-wheel alignment — this is mandatory after subframe service. Do not skip.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks, knocks, or steering wander; then at highway speed to verify tracking and stability.
• Re-inspect all disturbed fasteners after the test drive for witness marks indicating movement.
• Verify no HV fault codes or chassis warnings on the center display after reconnecting the 12V battery and powering up.
• Re-check subframe bolt torque after the first 100-200 miles as a precaution on critical structural fasteners.
• Note: while servicing the subframe, inspect drive unit fluid condition if the service interval (12,500 mi initial / 25,000-50,000 mi thereafter) is approaching, since access is already opened up.

More procedures for this vehicle