Replace a front sway bar end link on the 2024 Tesla Roadster. Note: the new Roadster's chassis details are not publicly documented; this procedure covers the universal sway bar link replacement workflow and defers to OEM-specified hardware locations where Roadster-specific data is not verified.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar end link assembly (OEM Tesla Roadster front) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster front sway bar link — verify part number with Tesla Service

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage (12V/16V) auxiliary battery per Tesla's procedure for the Roadster before working under the vehicle.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts a half turn while the vehicle is still on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved lift points and support securely on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
8. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and confirm failure
   With the wheel off, grasp the sway bar end link and check for play in the upper and lower ball joints. A failed link typically clunks over bumps and shows torn boots, visible play, or seized rotation. Confirm the link itself is the source of the noise — not the sway bar bushings, control arm ball joint, or strut mount — before replacing.
2. 2

   Apply penetrating oil
   Spray penetrating oil on both the upper sway bar link nut (at the sway bar end) and the lower link nut (at the strut or control arm mount, whichever applies on the Roadster). Allow several minutes to soak.
3. 3

   Loosen the upper sway bar link nut
   Insert an Allen key into the hex socket on the end of the link's ball stud to prevent the stud from spinning. Use a wrench on the nut to break it loose, then fully remove. If the stud spins inside a seized ball joint, cut the link off with a reciprocating saw rather than forcing it.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Loosen the lower sway bar link nut
   Repeat the same hold-the-stud-with-an-Allen-key procedure at the lower mounting point. Remove the nut completely.
5. 5

   Remove the old link
   Withdraw the link from the upper and lower mounting holes. Note the orientation (which end faced up, any spacer or washer order) so the new link installs the same way.
6. 6

   Compare new link to old
   Lay the new link next to the old one. Confirm overall length, stud diameter, thread pitch, and orientation of the ball joint angles match. A mismatched link will preload the sway bar and cause poor handling or premature failure. If they do not match, stop and source the correct part.
7. 7

   Install the new link
   Position the new link through the lower and upper mounting holes in the same orientation as the original. Hand-thread both nuts onto the studs to confirm clean engagement before applying torque.
8. 8

   Torque the link nuts
   Holding each ball stud with an Allen key to prevent rotation, torque the upper and lower sway bar link nuts to specification. If the link is supplied with a single-piece stud through both ends with a different fastener style, torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Verify boot seating and clearance
   Confirm the ball joint boots are fully seated on both ends and not pinched. Rotate the steering lock-to-lock (with the wheel still off if possible, otherwise after reinstall) to confirm the new link does not contact the strut, tire, brake hose, or wheel speed sensor wiring at any point in suspension travel.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before snugging.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
4. Reconnect the low-voltage auxiliary battery.
5. Allow the vehicle to wake and complete its self-checks before driving.

Verification

• Bounce the front corner by hand and listen — no clunks should be present from the sway bar area.
• Test drive over a series of small bumps (expansion joints, driveway aprons) at 15-30 mph. The metallic clunk that prompted the repair should be gone.
• Perform slow figure-eight maneuvers in a parking lot. Steering should feel symmetrical left vs. right with no popping from the sway bar.
• After the test drive, re-inspect the link for boot integrity and confirm the nuts are still seated at full torque.
• Recommended: have a 4-wheel alignment checked if any other suspension component was disturbed. Sway bar links alone do not affect alignment, but adjacent bolts being loosened can.

More procedures for this vehicle