suspension
Sway Bar Links - Front Pair
for 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
8
Steps
9
Replace both front sway bar end links on a 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor). Note: the production Roadster has not yet been released in volume; this procedure assumes the conventional double-wishbone front suspension with vertical sway bar links typical of this class of car. If your vehicle's front suspension does not match this description, stop and consult Tesla service information.
Warnings
⚠️The 2024 Roadster is a production-limited Tesla with very little public service documentation. If anything you encounter does not match this procedure — especially orange HV cabling routed near the front subframe — STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠️Never touch, cut, or pierce orange high-voltage cabling. The Roadster's HV system is lethal.
⚠The Roadster uses extensive aluminum and carbon-fiber body structure. Do not strike suspension components with a steel hammer against body panels or subframe mounting points.
⚠Sway bar links are safety-critical. A loose or incorrectly torqued link can cause unpredictable handling at speed.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket setEssential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Allen/hex key set (to hold link stud while loosening nut)Essential
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Insulated gloves (for 12V disconnect)
Parts
- Front sway bar end link assembly (left and right) × 2 — OEM Tesla Roadster front sway bar link — refer to Tesla Service Manual for current part number
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery before lifting the vehicle. Refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the 12V battery location on this model.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen front lug nuts a half turn while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified lift points and support on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Remove both front wheels and set aside.
Procedure
- 1Inspect the work areaWith both front wheels removed, locate the sway bar end links on each side. Each link connects the front sway (anti-roll) bar to the strut or lower control arm. Confirm there is no orange HV cabling, coolant line, or wiring harness routed across the link before applying tools. Apply penetrating oil to both upper and lower link nuts and allow several minutes to soak.⚠️If you see orange cabling near the front suspension, stop immediately.
- 2Loosen the driver-side upper link nutPlace a hex/Allen key into the center of the link's upper stud to hold it stationary. Using an open-end or crow-foot wrench on the nut, break the upper nut loose. Do not fully remove yet.
- 3Loosen the driver-side lower link nutRepeat the hold-and-loosen process on the lower end of the link where it attaches to the sway bar. Hold the stud with a hex key, loosen the nut with a wrench.
- 4Remove the driver-side linkFully remove both nuts. Withdraw the link from its mounting points. If the studs spin in their sockets and the nuts won't come off, hold the stud firmly with the hex key and use a slow, steady wrench pull — do not use an impact gun on a spinning stud, as this destroys the boot and stud.⚠If a stud is seized and spinning, cutting the link with a reciprocating saw between the ball joints is acceptable since the part is being replaced. Protect surrounding components from the blade.
- 5Compare old and new linksPlace the removed link next to the new replacement. Verify overall length, stud thread size, and orientation match exactly. The Roadster front links are handed in some configurations — confirm left vs right before installation.
- 6Install the driver-side new linkInsert the new link into its upper and lower mounting points. Thread both nuts on by hand to avoid cross-threading. Snug both nuts but do not final-torque yet.
- 7Final-torque the driver-side link nutsHolding each stud with the hex key, torque the link nuts to specification. Use the verified torque value for the sway bar link nuts.⚠Hold the stud with an Allen key while torquing — failure to do so will spin the stud in its socket and give a false torque reading.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 8Repeat for the passenger sideRepeat steps 2 through 7 on the passenger-side front sway bar link. Apply penetrating oil, hold the stud with a hex key, loosen and remove both nuts, install the new link, and torque to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 9Verify sway bar bracket boltsWhile the front sway bar is exposed, visually verify the sway bar bracket bolts (which clamp the bar to the subframe) are present and tight. If you loosened or removed them for any reason, torque to the verified bracket bolt specification.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying any tool.
- Lower the vehicle so wheels just touch the ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified wheel lug nut specification.
- Lower fully and remove jack stands.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- With the driver door closed and key fob present, allow the vehicle 30-60 seconds to wake and re-initialize all modules before pressing the brake pedal.
Verification
- Confirm both link nuts are torqued to the verified Sway Bar Link Nuts specification (55 Nm / 41 lb-ft) by re-checking with the torque wrench.
- Bounce each front corner of the vehicle and listen for any clunking — a properly installed link is silent.
- Take a low-speed test drive (under 25 mph) on a smooth surface. Listen for clunks over small bumps and during gentle steering inputs.
- Follow with a higher-speed test (35-50 mph) over moderate road imperfections to confirm no rattles or knocks from the front suspension.
- After the test drive, re-inspect both links visually for proper seating and check for any oil weeping from the new ball joints.
- Note: The Tesla Roadster does not have a published lifetime service interval for sway bar links — inspect them at every tire rotation (Tesla recommends every 6,250 miles) for play or torn boots.