steering
Tie Rod Assembly
for 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
9
Steps
10
Replace the tie rod assembly on the 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor AWD). Note: production-status and chassis specifics for this model are not publicly verified; treat all chassis-specific details as low-confidence and confirm against Tesla service documentation before proceeding.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cable. If you encounter HV components in the work area, stop and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠This vehicle is treated as low-confidence for service data. Confirm fastener locations, sizes, and torque values against the official Tesla Service Manual for your specific VIN before applying final torque.
⚠A wheel alignment is REQUIRED after any tie rod replacement. Do not return the vehicle to service until alignment has been performed and the tie rod lock nut torqued post-alignment.
⚠Aluminum and composite body/chassis components may be present — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a tie rod end puller rather than a pickle fork to avoid damaging the boot/knuckle.
ℹ️Count the exposed threads or measure tie rod length before disassembly to provide a baseline alignment that is drivable to the alignment shop.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Torque wrench (range covering 40–110 Nm)Essential
Metric socket and wrench setEssential
Tie rod end puller / ball joint separatorEssential
Cotter pin pliers / side cuttersEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Insulated gloves and eye protection
Calipers or tape measure (for thread-count reference)
Paint marker / scribe (to mark current adjustment)
Parts
- Tie rod assembly (manufacturer-specified for vehicle) × 1 — OEM tie rod assembly — confirm via VIN with Tesla Service
- New cotter pin for tie rod end castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
- Castle nut (if not reusable) × 1 — OEM-spec castle nut
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery. See architecture notes — battery location on this platform is not publicly documented; refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the correct location and disconnect procedure.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Chock the rear wheels. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.
- Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
- Before disassembly, mark the tie rod's current adjustment position (count exposed threads or measure overall length) so a rough toe setting can be restored before driving to the alignment shop.
Procedure
- 1Inspect the work areaVisually inspect the steering rack, tie rod, boot, and surrounding area. Confirm no orange HV cabling is routed near the work area. Verify there are no damaged components beyond the tie rod that would change the scope of work.⚠️If any orange cabling or HV component is in the work area, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- 2Remove cotter pin from tie rod end castle nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with a new one on reassembly.
- 3Loosen the tie rod end castle nutLoosen the castle nut on the outer tie rod end stud. Back the nut off until it sits flush with the end of the stud, but do not fully remove it yet — leaving it on protects the threads when separating the taper.
- 4Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckleUse a tie rod end puller / ball joint separator to break the tapered stud free from the steering knuckle. Do not use a pickle fork as it can tear the boot and may damage aluminum knuckle ears. Once free, fully remove the castle nut and lift the stud out of the knuckle.
- 5Loosen the tie rod lock nutLoosen (do not fully remove) the lock nut between the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod end. Confirm and record the number of exposed threads or overall length of the tie rod so the assembly can be set close to original length.
- 6Remove the tie rod assemblyDepending on whether you are replacing the outer end only or the full inner+outer assembly, either thread the outer end off the inner tie rod, or disconnect the inner tie rod from the steering rack per the manufacturer-specified procedure. If removing the inner tie rod from the rack, refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the correct retention method and any required holding tool — this is not publicly documented for this vehicle.
- 7Compare old and new partsLay the old and new tie rod assemblies side by side. Verify thread direction, thread pitch, overall length, taper size, and stud length match exactly. Any mismatch indicates the wrong part — do NOT install it.
- 8Install the new tie rod assemblyInstall the new inner tie rod (if replaced) to the steering rack per Tesla service procedure. Thread the outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft, setting the overall length to match the marked/measured original. Snug the lock nut by hand only at this stage — final torque happens after alignment.
- 9Reconnect the outer tie rod end to the steering knuckleInsert the tapered stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Align the castellations with the cotter pin hole by tightening (never loosening) within spec, then install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 10Pre-alignment lock nut snugSet the tie rod length as close as possible to the original measurement, then snug the lock nut to hold position for the trip to the alignment rack. Final torque on the lock nut is applied AFTER the alignment is set — do not apply final torque now.⚠Driving with an un-aligned front end will cause rapid tire wear and may cause unpredictable handling. Drive only directly to the alignment shop.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts to seat, then snug in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
- Reconnect the 12V/LV battery per the Tesla Service Manual procedure for this vehicle.
- Drive the vehicle slowly and directly to an alignment shop — do not perform spirited driving until alignment is set.
- After the front-end alignment is completed, torque the tie rod lock nut to its final specification.
- Re-verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent over.
Verification
- Confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight after alignment.
- Verify no clunks, knocks, or play when rocking the wheel side-to-side at 9 and 3 o'clock positions.
- Visually confirm a NEW cotter pin is installed and properly splayed at the tie rod end castle nut.
- Confirm the tie rod lock nut has been final-torqued to specification AFTER alignment.
- Inspect the tie rod boot for damage or twisting from the install procedure — replace if torn.
- Test drive at low and highway speeds to confirm no pulling, vibration, or wandering.
- Recheck tire pressures to Tesla door-jamb specification — alignment shops sometimes alter them.
- Note: this Tesla has electric power steering (no fluid). If the steering wheel angle sensor needs re-centering after alignment, this requires Tesla Toolbox — refer this step to a Tesla service center.
- While the vehicle is being serviced, also consider Tesla's other interval-based items if due: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years, tire rotation every ~6,250 mi, and drive unit fluid per current Tesla recommendations.