steering
Tie Rod End - Outer
for 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
11
Steps
10
Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor AWD). Note: production Roadster service data is extremely limited; this procedure follows generic outer tie rod best practices and must be cross-referenced against the official Tesla Service Manual before performing the work. A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.
Warnings
⚠️The 2024 Roadster is a low-volume, high-performance EV with limited published service information. If any step looks different from the actual vehicle, STOP and consult Tesla directly — guessing on steering components can cause loss of vehicle control.
⚠️Steering components are safety-critical. Use only OEM or OEM-equivalent parts. Failure of a tie rod end at speed will cause loss of steering.
⚠Do NOT route around or pierce any orange high-voltage cabling that may run near the front subframe. If an orange cable is in your work area, stop and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after replacement. Do not return the vehicle to road use until alignment is verified within Tesla spec.
ℹ️Aluminum/composite chassis components — do NOT strike with a steel hammer. Use a tie rod puller, not a pickle fork, if the boot or rack is to be preserved.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Lug nut socket (check Tesla Roadster spec)Essential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end puller / pickle fork (puller preferred to protect boot if reusing)Essential
Open-end wrench set (metric)Essential
Needle-nose pliers (for cotter pin)Essential
Side cutters / diagonal pliersEssential
Paint marker or thread-marking pen (to record position)Essential
Vernier calipers or steel ruler (to measure thread exposure)
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Parts
- Outer tie rod end assembly (manufacturer-specified for Tesla Roadster) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster outer tie rod end — verify with Tesla parts
- New cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — Size to match castle nut
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the low-voltage (12V/16V) auxiliary battery per the Tesla Service Manual for this Roadster. Refer to the manual for exact location and disconnect sequence.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Confirm the replacement tie rod end matches the side (left/right) and the existing part exactly.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points and support securely on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and clean the tie rod assemblyWire-brush dirt and debris from the tie rod end, the inner tie rod lock nut, and the steering knuckle taper. Apply penetrating oil to the lock nut threads and the castle nut. Allow to soak.
- 2Mark the existing tie rod positionUsing a paint marker, mark the inner tie rod shaft where the lock nut currently sits. Measure and record the exposed thread length between the lock nut and the outer tie rod end. This reference is used to set the replacement near factory toe so the vehicle is drivable to alignment.ℹ️This is a reference only — a professional alignment is still required afterward.
- 3Loosen the inner lock nutHold the inner tie rod shaft with an open-end wrench and break loose the tie rod lock nut. Back it off just enough to free rotation against the outer tie rod end — do not run it down the shaft.
- 4Remove the cotter pin and castle nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end stud. Discard the cotter pin — it must not be reused. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on the last few threads to protect the stud during separation.
- 5Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckleUse a proper tie rod end puller to break the tapered stud free from the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle forks unless the boot is being discarded, as they can damage the knuckle, the boot, and any surrounding aluminum components. Once the taper releases, remove the castle nut fully and lift the stud out of the knuckle.⚠Do not strike the aluminum steering knuckle with a hammer. Damage may not be visible but can compromise the part.
- 6Count turns while removing the outer tie rod endWhile holding the inner tie rod shaft stationary, unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Count the exact number of turns required for full removal and record it. This is the most accurate way to install the replacement at the same toe setting.
- 7Install the new outer tie rod endThread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod shaft using the same number of turns recorded in the previous step. Verify the exposed thread length matches your earlier measurement. Do not snug the lock nut yet.
- 8Seat the stud in the steering knuckleInsert the tapered stud of the new tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Ensure the boot is seated correctly and not pinched. Hand-thread the castle nut onto the stud.
- 9Torque the castle nut and install new cotter pinTorque the castle nut to specification. If the slots in the castle nut do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved, staying within an acceptable additional rotation. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over to secure.⚠️Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin slot. Always tighten.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 10Preliminary lock nut snugSnug the inner tie rod lock nut against the new outer tie rod end by hand and with a wrench just enough to prevent rotation while moving the vehicle. Final torque is applied AFTER alignment.ℹ️Do not apply final lock nut torque until the alignment shop has set toe.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Reconnect the low-voltage auxiliary battery per the Tesla Service Manual sequence.
- Drive the vehicle ONLY the minimum distance required to reach an alignment rack. Pay attention to any pull, vibration, or unusual steering feel — return immediately if anything feels wrong.
- After alignment is completed and toe is set, torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to its final specification while holding the inner tie rod stationary.
Verification
- Confirm the new cotter pin is fully installed and bent over on the castle nut.
- Visually verify the boot on the new tie rod end is seated, undamaged, and has no twist.
- Confirm the lock nut is fully torqued AFTER alignment — refer to torque spec for Tie Rod Lock Nut.
- Confirm wheel lug nuts torqued to spec; re-torque after approximately 50 miles.
- Have a four-wheel alignment performed and verify toe, camber, and caster are within Tesla Roadster specification.
- Test drive at low speed first: check for steering centering, any pulling, clunks over bumps, or steering free play. Escalate any abnormality before higher-speed driving.
- Service-interval reminder unrelated to this job but worth checking while the vehicle is up: tire rotation is recommended every ~6,250 miles on Tesla vehicles, and brake fluid every 2 years.