steering
Tie Rods - Both Sides
for 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
Replace both outer tie rod ends on the 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor). Note: this vehicle's chassis architecture is largely unique and service documentation is scarce — confirm fastener specifications against the official Tesla Service Manual before final assembly, and always finish with a four-wheel alignment.
Warnings
⚠️Tie rods are a primary steering safety component. An incorrectly torqued or improperly secured tie rod end can cause complete loss of steering. Use new cotter pins and verify torque with a calibrated wrench.
⚠The 2024 Roadster has very limited published service data. If any fastener spec, bracket, or routing is unclear, STOP and consult Tesla directly — do not guess.
⚠A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair. Driving the vehicle without alignment can ruin tires within miles and cause unpredictable handling.
ℹ️Aluminum and composite chassis components are common on this platform. Do not strike suspension or chassis members with a steel hammer — use a brass/dead-blow hammer or a tie rod puller tool.
⚠Even on a non-HV job, route all tools and limbs away from any orange cabling you may encounter. If you see an orange cable, STOP.
Tools required
2-post or 4-post lift (or jack + jack stands rated for vehicle weight)Essential
Metric socket set (including deep sockets)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Calibrated torque wrench (10–150 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end puller / pickle forkEssential
Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential
Tape measure or digital caliper (to record tie rod length before removal)Essential
Paint pen or machinist's marker
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Insulated gloves (for 12V/LV battery disconnect)Essential
Parts
- Outer tie rod end assembly (manufacturer-specified) × 2 — OEM tie rod end for 2024 Tesla Roadster — verify with Tesla Parts
- Castle nut / tie rod end nut (if not supplied with tie rod) × 2 — OEM specification
- Cotter pin × 2 — OEM specification — never reuse
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery. Refer to the Tesla Service Manual for exact battery location on the 2024 Roadster, as this platform differs significantly from other Tesla models.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle using manufacturer-specified lift points and support securely on jack stands or a lift.
- Remove both front wheels and set aside.
- Center the steering wheel and lock it in position (steering wheel lock or seat-belt method) so the rack does not rotate during the repair.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and document current tie rod geometryBefore loosening anything, clean the threads of each inner tie rod and lock nut with a wire brush and penetrating oil. Using a paint pen or marker, mark the position of the lock nut on the inner tie rod threads. Measure and record the exposed thread length (or overall tie rod length from inner pivot to ball stud center) on BOTH sides. This is your reference for rough toe re-set so the vehicle is drivable to the alignment shop.
- 2Remove cotter pin and castle nut from outer tie rod endStraighten and extract the cotter pin from the outer tie rod ball stud. Discard it — never reuse a cotter pin. Loosen and remove the castle nut from the ball stud. If the ball stud spins, apply downward pressure on the tie rod end or use a wrench on the flat (if equipped) to hold it.
- 3Separate outer tie rod end from steering knuckleUse a proper tie rod end puller (separator tool) to press the ball stud out of the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle forks if possible — they damage the boot and can deform aluminum knuckles. Once free, swing the tie rod end clear of the knuckle.⚠Do not strike the knuckle with a steel hammer. The Roadster's chassis and suspension components include aluminum and composite materials that crack rather than deform.
- 4Loosen the inner tie rod lock nutWhile holding the inner tie rod stationary with a wrench on its flats, break loose the lock nut that secures the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod threads. Do NOT yet unthread the outer tie rod end.
- 5Count turns while removing the outer tie rod endUnthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod, counting full and partial turns precisely. Record this number for each side. Threading the new tie rod end on by the same count will preserve toe close enough for safe transport to alignment.
- 6Repeat removal on opposite sidePerform steps 2–5 on the opposite side of the vehicle. Keep left and right hardware separated and labeled.
- 7Compare new and old tie rod endsPlace the new tie rod end alongside the old one. Verify thread direction (some vehicles use one LH and one RH thread side), thread pitch, ball stud taper angle, ball stud diameter, and overall length match. If anything is different, STOP and verify the correct part number with Tesla before proceeding.⚠️Installing a tie rod end with the wrong taper or thread will fail catastrophically. Verify part match before installation.
- 8Install new outer tie rod end onto inner tie rodSlide the lock nut onto the inner tie rod first. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by the SAME number of turns recorded in step 5. Snug the lock nut by hand for now — final torque is set after alignment.
- 9Insert ball stud into steering knucklePosition the new tie rod end's ball stud into the steering knuckle taper. Ensure the boot is seated correctly and not pinched. Install a new castle nut and tighten to specification.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 10Install new cotter pinIf the castle nut slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten the nut SLIGHTLY further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved. Insert a new cotter pin and bend the legs over per OEM practice. Trim excess if needed.⚠Never back off a castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — always tighten further within reason. If the next slot is not reachable within a few degrees, re-evaluate fastener and component condition.
- 11Repeat installation on opposite sidePerform steps 8–10 on the opposite side of the vehicle.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 12Snug lock nuts for transportWith both tie rod ends installed and ball studs secured, snug the inner tie rod lock nuts to a moderate setting so the vehicle can be safely driven to the alignment rack. Do NOT apply final torque yet — final torque happens after alignment adjustment is complete.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque front wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Reconnect the 12V/LV battery.
- Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle running (in a safe area or on the alignment rack) and verify no binding or unusual noise.
- Drive carefully and directly to an alignment shop — avoid highway speeds and aggressive maneuvers until alignment is complete.
- After four-wheel alignment is performed and toe is set, torque the inner tie rod lock nuts to specification as the final step.
Verification
- Confirm both new cotter pins are installed and properly bent — visual inspection from below.
- Confirm tie rod boots are intact, seated, and not twisted at full lock left and full lock right.
- Confirm no play in the new tie rod ends by grasping the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and rocking — there should be zero detectable lash from the tie rod end.
- Have a four-wheel alignment performed by a shop with current Tesla Roadster specs. Confirm toe, camber, and caster are within OEM range.
- After alignment, verify inner tie rod lock nuts are torqued to the specified value and that the steering wheel is centered when driving straight.
- Test drive at low speed, then progressively higher speeds, listening for clunks and watching for steering pull or wander.
- Re-check fasteners after the first 100 miles of driving.