suspension
Upper Control Arm - Front
for 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.5 h
Tools
10
Steps
13
Replace the front upper control arm on the 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor. Note: production-spec service data for this vehicle is extremely limited; this procedure provides general guidance only and must be cross-checked against the official Tesla Service Manual before proceeding.
Warnings
⚠️Even though this is a non-HV job, the Roadster carries lethal high-voltage systems. Never touch, cut, or pierce orange cabling. If you encounter HV components in the work area, STOP.
⚠The 2024 Roadster shares chassis architecture with the original Lotus Elise platform on early units; some fasteners and bushings may be Lotus-spec rather than Tesla-spec. Verify against the official Tesla Service Manual before substituting parts.
⚠Aluminum suspension and body components — do not strike directly with a steel hammer. Use a brass drift or dead-blow only.
⚠Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts MUST be done with the suspension loaded at ride height. Torquing in the air will pre-load the bushings and cause premature failure.
ℹ️An alignment is required after this repair. Do not return the vehicle to service without a four-wheel alignment.
Tools required
Metric socket set (10–22mm)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Calibrated torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator (pickle fork or press-type)Essential
Floor jack with rubber padEssential
Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)Essential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shaft)
Cotter pin pliers / diagonal cuttersEssential
Pry bar
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Front upper control arm assembly × 1 — OEM-spec front upper control arm — refer to Tesla Service Manual for current part number
- Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
- Control arm pivot hardware × 1 — Reuse only if undamaged; replace per OEM specification if stretch-type
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the low-voltage battery (12V/16V as equipped). Refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the exact battery location on this vehicle — architecture differs significantly from other Tesla models.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle using manufacturer-specified lift points and support securely on jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
- Inspect the surrounding area for any orange HV cabling, sensor harnesses, or brake lines that may be in the path of removal — reroute or support as needed.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and documentPhotograph the upper control arm in place, noting bolt orientation, any shims or alignment cams, and harness routing. The Roadster's front suspension geometry is sensitive — reference photos help ensure correct reassembly.
- 2Support the lower suspensionPlace a floor jack with a rubber pad under the lower control arm or hub assembly to support the suspension's weight. This prevents the spring/strut from dropping suddenly when the upper ball joint is released.⚠Do not jack against any HV component, coolant line, or brake line.
- 3Disconnect any attached sensor or harnessIf a wheel speed sensor harness, brake wear sensor, or ride-height sensor is clipped to the upper control arm, carefully release the clips. Do not pull on wires.
- 4Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nutCut and discard the existing cotter pin. Loosen the castle nut on the upper ball joint stud. Back the nut off but leave it threaded on the last few turns to catch the knuckle when the joint releases.⚠Never reuse a cotter pin. A new one is required on reassembly.
- 5Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckleUse a press-type ball joint separator to break the taper. Avoid pickle-fork tools if the boot is to be reused. Once separated, fully remove the castle nut and lift the knuckle clear of the ball joint stud.⚠Do not let the knuckle hang by the brake hose or any sensor wiring.
- 6Remove the upper control arm pivot boltsNote the orientation of any alignment cams or shims at the inboard pivot points. Mark their position before loosening. Remove the inboard pivot bolts and lift the control arm out of the chassis.⚠Alignment cam position must be preserved or alignment will be significantly off when reinstalled.
- 7Compare old and new control armLay the old and new control arms side by side. Confirm bushing orientation, ball joint stud direction, and overall geometry match. Confirm the replacement is the correct hand (left vs. right).
- 8Install the new upper control armPosition the new control arm into the chassis pivot points. Install the pivot bolts with any cams/shims in their original orientation. Snug the bolts but DO NOT final-torque yet — final torque must occur with vehicle weight on the wheels.
- 9Connect the upper ball joint to the knuckleGuide the knuckle onto the upper ball joint stud. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Align the castellations with the cotter pin hole — only tighten further (never back off) to align. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs properly.⚠Use a NEW cotter pin. Never back off the castle nut to align the hole — only tighten further.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 10Reattach sensor harnesses and clipsReroute and secure any harnesses to the new control arm in their original positions. Confirm no wiring is pinched or near rotating components.
- 11Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleMount the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so its full weight is on the wheels before final torquing the control arm pivot bolts.
- 12Final-torque the control arm pivot bolts at ride heightWith the vehicle's full weight on the wheels (suspension at static ride height), torque the upper control arm inboard pivot bolts to specification. This sets the bushings at neutral preload.⚠Skipping the at-ride-height torque step will destroy the bushings within a few thousand miles.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Final-torque wheel lug nutsTorque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Confirm all fasteners are torqued to specification.
- Confirm the new cotter pin is installed at the upper ball joint and legs are properly bent.
- Reconnect the low-voltage battery.
- Cycle the vehicle on and verify no chassis warning lights (ride height, ABS, stability control) are present.
- Drive the vehicle to a four-wheel alignment immediately — do not put it back in regular service first.
Verification
- Perform a four-wheel alignment using Tesla-specified front camber, caster, and toe values for the 2024 Roadster. This is mandatory after any control arm replacement.
- After a short test drive, re-check upper ball joint castle nut and control arm pivot bolts for movement (paint mark verification).
- Listen for any clunks or knocks over bumps — could indicate improper bushing preload or a loose pivot fastener.
- Inspect the new ball joint boot for proper seating and no tearing.
- Confirm no chassis or stability fault codes are stored. While this job does not touch HV systems, suspension sensors on the Roadster may require recalibration via factory service tooling — consult a Tesla-certified technician if any ride-height or chassis fault appears.