Replacement of a rear upper control arm on the 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor AWD). Note: this vehicle is a low-volume, low-confidence platform — verify all chassis specifics against the Tesla Service Manual before proceeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear upper control arm assembly (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster rear upper control arm — verify by VIN
• New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — Generic cotter pin sized to OEM ball joint stud
• Ball joint nut (if single-use per OEM spec) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified — replace if OEM specifies
• Control arm pivot bolts/nuts (if single-use per OEM spec) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified hardware kit

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery. See architecture notes — Roadster LV battery location should be verified against the Service Manual before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
7. Raise the vehicle on a lift or with jack stands at the manufacturer-specified rear lift points. Do NOT lift on the battery enclosure or under any orange cabling.
8. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side and set aside.
9. Photograph the upper control arm orientation, any shim packs, and the cam bolt positions (if equipped) before disassembly to aid reinstallation.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Visually inspect the rear upper control arm, ball joint, bushings, and surrounding hardware. Note any alignment shims, eccentric (cam) bolts, or marked positions. Mark the cam bolt heads relative to the subframe with a paint pen so the rough alignment can be restored.
2. 2

   Support the rear hub assembly
   Place a transmission jack or hub stand under the rear hub/upright to support its weight. This prevents the assembly from dropping when the upper control arm is disconnected and avoids stressing the lower arm, brake hose, and any wiring.
   ⚠Do not let the hub hang on the brake flex line or wheel speed sensor harness.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar end link blocks access to the upper control arm, disconnect it at the lower attachment. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove cotter pin and ball joint nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Discard it. Loosen and remove the ball joint castle nut.
   ⚠Cotter pin is single-use. A new one is required on reassembly.
5. 5

   Separate ball joint from upright
   Use a proper ball joint separator tool to release the upper ball joint taper from the upright. Avoid pickle-fork tools if the boot is to be reused, as they typically destroy the boot. Once free, swing the control arm clear of the upright.
   ⚠Do not strike the upright or chassis with a steel hammer — aluminum/composite components can crack. Use the separator tool's clamping action.
6. 6

   Remove inboard control arm pivot bolts
   Support the control arm. Remove the inboard pivot bolt(s)/nut(s) attaching the upper control arm to the chassis/subframe bracket. Note the orientation of any cam bolts or washers and the side they install from. Remove the control arm.
7. 7

   Compare new arm to old
   Lay the new upper control arm next to the original. Verify ball joint orientation, bushing type, length between pivots, and any handed (left/right) markings. If the parts differ, STOP and verify the correct part number before installing.
8. 8

   Install new upper control arm to chassis
   Position the new control arm into the inboard chassis bracket. Install the pivot bolts in the same orientation as removed, matching any cam bolt position marks made earlier. Snug — but do NOT final-torque — the bolts at this stage; final torque is applied at ride height.
   ⚠Final torque of the inboard pivot bolts must occur with the suspension loaded at ride height to avoid pre-loading the bushings.
9. 9

   Connect ball joint to upright
   Raise the upright to engage the upper ball joint stud into the upright taper. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening only as needed to align the next castellation with the cotter pin hole — do NOT back off. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
   ⚠️If the cotter pin hole does not align within the allowed over-torque range, replace the nut — never loosen below the specified torque.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar link (if disconnected)
    Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the internal shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel
    Mount the rear wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts. Snug in a star pattern. Final torque will occur after the vehicle is on the ground.

Reassembly

1. Lower the vehicle so the suspension takes the full vehicle weight at ride height.
2. With the wheel on the ground, final-torque the upper control arm inboard pivot bolts to the Control Arm Bolts specification.
3. Final-torque the rear wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the Wheel Lug Nuts specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery and allow the vehicle to wake.
5. Verify the touchscreen shows no chassis or stability-control faults. Cycle the vehicle through Park/Drive briefly with brake applied to allow ABS/ESC self-checks.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension warnings, ABS, traction control, or stability control faults are displayed on the center touchscreen.
• With the vehicle on the ground, visually confirm the new cotter pin is installed and properly bent at the upper ball joint.
• Re-check that the inboard pivot bolts were torqued at ride height (not while drooped).
• Schedule and perform a four-wheel alignment immediately — control arm replacement always changes camber/toe geometry on this platform.
• Road test at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps and checking for steering pull or unusual rear tracking.
• Re-inspect torque on the ball joint nut and pivot bolts after the first 100–200 miles of driving.
• Reminder: while you have the vehicle in the air, this is a good moment to inspect rear brake fluid condition (Tesla recommends brake fluid service every 2 years) and check tire wear (Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle