This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the lower control arm on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry with 2.5L I4 engine, including ball joint separation and proper torque procedures.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Lower control arm × 1 — 48068-06120 or equivalent
• Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Replace if damaged
• Cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin required

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Chock rear wheels securely
3. Loosen wheel lug nuts with vehicle on ground (do not remove)
4. Raise front of vehicle and support on jack stands at manufacturer frame points
5. Remove wheel completely
6. Spray all control arm bolts and ball joint nut with penetrating oil and let soak 15 minutes if fasteners show corrosion

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove ball joint cotter pin and loosen castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut. Use a 19mm socket to loosen the ball joint castle nut but do NOT remove it completely yet - leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the threads during separation.
2. 2

   Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
   Position ball joint separator or pickle fork between the lower control arm and steering knuckle at the ball joint taper. Strike the separator firmly with a hammer to break the taper fit. Once the joint pops free, remove the castle nut completely and lower the control arm away from the knuckle. Support the knuckle to prevent stress on the brake line and CV axle.
   ⚠The ball joint will separate suddenly. Keep the castle nut threaded on during separation to prevent the stud from falling free and damaging threads.
3. 3

   Remove front control arm mounting bolt
   Locate the front control arm to subframe mounting bolt (closest to radiator). Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove this bolt completely. Note the orientation of any washers or alignment marks. The bolt passes horizontally through the front bushing.
4. 4

   Remove rear control arm mounting bolt
   Locate the rear control arm to subframe mounting bolt. Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove this bolt completely. This bolt also passes horizontally through the rear bushing. You may need to use a pry bar to relieve tension on the bushing before the bolt will slide out freely.
5. 5

   Remove lower control arm
   With both mounting bolts removed and ball joint disconnected, maneuver the lower control arm out of the subframe mounting points. It may be necessary to rotate or angle the arm to clear the sway bar link and other components. Inspect the removed arm for torn bushings, cracks, or deformation.
6. 6

   Clean mounting points and prepare new control arm
   Use a wire brush to clean the subframe mounting bolt holes and remove any rust or debris. Clean the ball joint taper seat in the steering knuckle with a wire brush. Inspect the new control arm to ensure bushings are properly seated and ball joint boot is intact. Compare new arm to old arm to verify correct part.
7. 7

   Install new control arm into subframe
   Position the new lower control arm into the subframe mounting points. Insert the front mounting bolt first (hand tight only). Then insert the rear mounting bolt (hand tight only). Do NOT torque these bolts yet - they must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension.
8. 8

   Connect ball joint to steering knuckle
   Lift the control arm and align the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle. You may need to use a floor jack under the control arm to raise it into position. Insert the ball joint stud through the knuckle and thread on the new castle nut. Torque the castle nut to specification and align the next castle slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.
   ⚠Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole. If the nut exceeds torque spec before alignment, tighten to the next castle slot up to 10% over spec.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel
   Place the wheel back onto the hub and thread on all lug nuts by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a hand wrench but do not torque yet.
10. 10

    Lower vehicle to load suspension
    Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle until the tires just contact the ground and the suspension is carrying the vehicle weight, but the vehicle is not fully lowered. The suspension must be at normal ride height for the next step. You may need to have an assistant bounce the front end to settle the suspension.
    ⚠Control arm bushings must be torqued at ride height. Torquing them while suspension is hanging will preload the bushings and cause premature failure.
11. 11

    Torque control arm mounting bolts
    With the vehicle weight on the suspension at normal ride height, use a torque wrench and 21mm socket to torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. Torque both bolts fully before proceeding.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final wheel installation and torque
    Fully lower the vehicle to the ground. Use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Perform at least two complete passes to ensure even seating.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Always install a new cotter pin - never reuse the old one
2. Verify the ball joint castle nut is properly aligned with the cotter pin hole and the cotter pin ends are bent securely
3. Double-check that control arm bolts were torqued at ride height, not with suspension hanging

Verification

• Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking or rattling noises from the front suspension
• Perform a visual inspection under the vehicle to confirm the cotter pin is secure and no bolts are loose
• Check that steering feels normal with no pulling or vibration
• Schedule a professional alignment within 50 miles as replacing the control arm will affect camber and toe settings

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