drivetrain
CV Axles - Front Pair
for 2021 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
13
Steps
15
This procedure covers the removal and installation of both front CV axles on a 2018-2024 Toyota Camry with the 2.5L I4 engine, including separation from the steering knuckle and transmission.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Transmission fluid will drain when axles are removed. Have drain pan ready and expect to lose 1-2 quarts per side.
⚠Axle nut is torqued to 250 Nm and must be loosened with wheel on ground and vehicle weight on suspension to prevent hub/bearing damage.
ℹ️New axles should come with new axle nuts. If reusing old nuts, verify they are in good condition and use new cotter pins or properly stake.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (50-300 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
30mm or 32mm axle nut socketEssential
17mm wrench and socket for ball joint nutEssential
14mm socket for CV joint boltsEssential
Breaker barEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry barEssential
Hammer
Wire brush
Drain panEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Front CV axle - driver side × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Front CV axle - passenger side × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Axle nut cotter pin or stake nut × 2 — 90179-06062 or equivalent
- Ball joint castle nut × 2 — Inspect and replace if damaged
- Toyota WS ATF × 1 — 00289-ATFWS or equivalent
Fluids
- Toyota WS ATF — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Break loose axle nuts with breaker bar while vehicle is on ground and brakes applied - do not remove yet
- Lift front of vehicle and secure on jack stands at manufacturer frame support points
- Remove front wheels completely
- Place drain pans under transmission to catch ATF from axle seals
Procedure
- 1Remove axle nutNow that vehicle is lifted, completely remove the 30mm or 32mm axle nut from both sides. Remove and discard cotter pin or un-stake the nut first if present. Set nuts aside (they should be replaced with new ones).
- 2Disconnect lower ball jointRemove the 17mm castle nut securing the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle on both sides. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Do not damage the ball joint boot if reusing suspension components.⚠Ball joint separator tools can damage boots. Use care if not replacing control arms.
- 3Separate axle from steering knucklePush the steering knuckle outward and pull the axle shaft out of the hub bearing. If axle is stuck, use a brass punch or soft mallet to tap the axle end through the hub. Support the axle to prevent it from hanging by the inner CV joint.⚠Do not let axle hang by inner CV joint as this can damage the joint or transmission seal.
- 4Remove inner CV joint bolts - driver sideLocate the six bolts securing the inner CV joint flange to the transmission output flange on the driver side. Use a 14mm socket to remove all six bolts. Rotate the axle as needed to access all bolts. Support the axle as you remove the final bolts.Torque specCV Joint Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 5Remove driver side axlePull the driver side axle assembly straight out, separating it from the transmission. ATF will drain from the seal area. Allow fluid to drain into pan, then remove axle from vehicle. Plug the transmission opening with a clean rag to minimize fluid loss.
- 6Remove passenger side axleFor the passenger side, use a pry bar between the inner CV joint housing and transmission case to carefully pry the axle out of the transmission. The passenger side uses a splined stub shaft that pulls straight out. Be careful not to damage the transmission seal. Allow ATF to drain and plug opening.⚠Do not pry against transmission case in a way that could crack the housing. Use proper leverage points.
- 7Clean and inspect hub and transmissionClean the hub splines and transmission seal areas with a wire brush. Inspect transmission seals for damage. Inspect hub bearings for play or roughness (this is a good time to replace if needed). Clean the ball joint taper on the steering knuckle.
- 8Install passenger side axleRemove rag from transmission opening. Carefully insert the new passenger side axle into the transmission, aligning the splines. Push firmly until you feel the circlip seat with a distinct click. Tug on the axle to confirm it is locked in place. Insert the outer end through the hub bearing.ℹ️Ensure axle circlip is properly seated. You should hear and feel a click, and axle should not pull back out.
- 9Install driver side axleRemove rag from transmission opening. Insert the outer end of the driver side axle through the hub bearing first. Then align the inner CV joint flange with the transmission output flange. Hand-thread all six bolts to hold the axle in position before tightening.
- 10Torque inner CV joint bolts - driver sideTorque all six inner CV joint flange bolts to specification using a torque wrench. Tighten in a crisscross pattern to ensure even seating. Rotate axle as needed to access all bolts.Torque specCV Joint Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 11Reconnect ball jointsPush both steering knuckles back onto the lower ball joint studs. Install the castle nuts and torque to specification. Install new cotter pins through the castle nut slots and ball joint stud holes. Bend cotter pins to secure.ℹ️If cotter pin holes do not align, tighten nut slightly more (never loosen) until next slot aligns.Torque specBall Joint Nut102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 12Install axle nutsInstall new axle nuts on both sides. Do not fully torque yet - snug them hand-tight with a wrench. The final torque must be done with wheels on ground.
- 13Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleInstall both front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower vehicle until wheels touch ground but suspension is not fully loaded. Torque wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
- 14Final torque axle nutsLower vehicle completely to ground. Have an assistant apply brakes or place transmission in Park. Torque both axle nuts to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft). Install new cotter pins through castle nut slots if applicable, or properly stake the nut collar into the axle shaft groove per manufacturer specification.⚠Axle nut must be torqued with vehicle on ground and brakes applied to prevent hub bearing damage.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 15Refill transmission fluidCheck transmission fluid level using dipstick (if equipped) or fill plug. Add Toyota WS ATF as needed to restore proper level. Typically 1-2 quarts total will be needed to replace what was lost. Start engine, cycle through gears, and recheck level with engine at operating temperature.
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification
- Verify axle nuts are properly secured with cotter pins or staked
- Confirm transmission fluid is at proper level on dipstick
- Check that no tools or parts were left in wheel wells or under vehicle
Verification
- Test drive vehicle and verify no clicking, popping, or vibration from CV axles during turns and acceleration
- Verify no transmission fluid leaks from axle seals after test drive
- Recheck axle nut torque and security after 50-100 miles
- Verify smooth steering operation with no binding or unusual resistance
- Check transmission fluid level again after test drive when at operating temperature