steering
Tie Rod End - Outer
for 2021 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
11
Steps
11
This procedure covers removal and replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2018-2024 Toyota Camry with 2.5L I4 engine, including preparation for wheel alignment.
Warnings
⚠Vehicle must be aligned after tie rod replacement. Driving with improper alignment can cause tire wear and handling issues.
⚠Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
ℹ️This vehicle uses electric power steering with no fluid system.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Lug wrench or 21mm socketEssential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
19mm wrench (tie rod end nut)Essential
22mm wrench (lock nut)Essential
Torque wrench (30-150 Nm range)Essential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
White paint marker or tape measureEssential
Needle-nose pliers (cotter pin removal)Essential
Hammer
Parts
- Outer tie rod end (left or right) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin × 1 — 2mm x 20mm or OEM equivalent
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn before raising vehicle
- Raise and support vehicle on jack stands at manufacturer-specified lift points
- Remove wheel completely
- Spray tie rod end threads and castle nut with penetrating oil if corroded
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod positionBefore loosening anything, use a white paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end where it threads onto the inner tie rod. Count and record the number of visible threads. This provides a reference for approximate toe setting and will allow the vehicle to be safely driven to an alignment shop.
- 2Remove cotter pinLocate the cotter pin securing the tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin legs, then pull it completely out and discard. The cotter pin may be corroded and require cutting if it cannot be removed intact.
- 3Loosen tie rod end castle nutUsing a 19mm wrench or socket, loosen but do not fully remove the castle nut on the tie rod end ball stud. Leave the nut threaded on several turns to protect the threads when separating the joint.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 4Separate tie rod end from knucklePosition a tie rod end separator or pickle fork between the steering knuckle and tie rod end. Strike the separator tool firmly with a hammer to break the taper connection. Alternatively, use a ball joint separator tool. Once loose, remove the castle nut completely and remove the tie rod end from the knuckle.⚠Do not strike the tie rod end directly with a hammer as this can damage the threads and steering components.
- 5Loosen tie rod lock nutLocate the lock nut on the inner tie rod where the outer tie rod end threads on. This is typically a 22mm jam nut. Hold the outer tie rod end stationary and loosen the lock nut several turns. Do not remove it completely yet.Torque specTie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
- 6Remove outer tie rod endCount the number of turns as you unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record this number for installation reference. Once completely unthreaded, remove the outer tie rod end and lock nut together. Clean the threads on the inner tie rod with a wire brush.
- 7Install new outer tie rod endThread the lock nut onto the new outer tie rod end first (it should slide over the ball stud end). Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the inner tie rod threads. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod, using your reference marks and thread count. Thread it in the same number of turns recorded during removal, aligning with your paint mark.
- 8Install tie rod end to knuckleInsert the tie rod end ball stud into the steering knuckle. Ensure the stud is fully seated in the taper. Thread on the new castle nut by hand, then tighten to specification using a torque wrench. The castle nut slots must align with the ball stud hole for cotter pin installation.⚠If castle nut slots do not align with cotter pin hole at specified torque, tighten further up to 1/6 turn (60 degrees) maximum. Never loosen the nut to align slots.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 9Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud hole. Bend the legs of the cotter pin outward in opposite directions to secure it. The cotter pin should be tight and prevent the castle nut from rotating.
- 10Snug tie rod lock nutHand-tighten the lock nut against the outer tie rod end body, but do not torque it to specification yet. The lock nut will be final-torqued after wheel alignment is performed. This allows the alignment technician to make toe adjustments.ℹ️The Tie Rod Lock Nut should only be torqued to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) AFTER professional wheel alignment is completed.
- 11Reinstall wheelMount the wheel onto the hub and thread lug nuts on by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground to prevent wheel rotation. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Lower vehicle completely and remove jack stands
- Perform final torque check on wheel lug nuts with vehicle on ground
- Test steering operation by turning wheel lock-to-lock while stationary to ensure no binding
Verification
- Verify tie rod end ball stud moves freely without binding when steering wheel is turned
- Check that cotter pin is properly installed and secure
- Confirm no unusual noises when turning steering wheel
- Schedule wheel alignment appointment immediately - vehicle toe setting will be approximate only
- After alignment, verify tie rod lock nut has been torqued to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) by alignment technician