steering
Tie Rods - Both Sides
for 2021 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
14
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of both inner and outer tie rod ends on a 2018-2024 Toyota Camry with 2.5L I4 engine, requiring a front-end alignment after completion.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be properly supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠This vehicle uses electric power steering. Do not turn the steering wheel with the engine running while tie rods are disconnected.
⚠Professional wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair. Failure to align will cause tire wear and handling issues.
ℹ️Tie rod threads may be seized or corroded. Apply penetrating oil 30 minutes before starting work.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
19mm wrench for tie rod end nutEssential
22mm wrench for tie rod lock nutEssential
Adjustable pliers or vise gripsEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
White paint marker or tape measure
New cotter pinsEssential
Needle nose pliers for cotter pin removalEssential
Parts
- Left outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Right outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Left inner tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Right inner tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pins (2mm diameter) × 4 — Minimum 4 pieces
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking points
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at frame rails
- Remove both front wheels completely
- Spray penetrating oil on all tie rod threads, lock nuts, and castle nuts
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod position for referenceBefore loosening anything, use white paint marker to mark the position of each outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of exposed threads between the outer tie rod and lock nut. This provides a rough starting point for reassembly to minimize alignment deviation.
- 2Remove outer tie rod end cotter pinsLocate the castle nut on each outer tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle. Use needle nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from each side. Discard old cotter pins as they cannot be reused.
- 3Loosen outer tie rod end castle nutsUsing a 19mm wrench or socket, loosen but do not fully remove the castle nut on each outer tie rod end. Leave the nut threaded on by 2-3 turns to protect the threads and prevent the tie rod from falling when separated.⚠Do not completely remove the nut yet. The tie rod end will drop suddenly when the taper releases.
- 4Separate outer tie rod ends from knucklesUse a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork to break the taper joint between the outer tie rod end ball stud and the steering knuckle. Position the tool between the knuckle and tie rod end, then strike with a hammer or use the screw-type separator. Once the taper releases, remove the castle nut completely and pull the tie rod end out of the knuckle. Repeat for both sides.
- 5Loosen tie rod lock nutsUsing a 22mm wrench, loosen the lock nut on each tie rod that secures the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod. This lock nut is located where the outer tie rod threads onto the inner tie rod. Do not remove the lock nut completely yet; just break it loose.
- 6Remove outer tie rod endsUnscrew each outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod by turning it counterclockwise. Count the number of turns as you remove it to aid in installation. Once removed, thread the lock nut off the inner tie rod. Inspect the inner tie rod threads and clean with a wire brush if needed.
- 7Remove inner tie rod endsThe inner tie rod end connects to the steering rack with a threaded connection and may have a clamp or lock washer. Use adjustable pliers or a wrench to grip the flat surfaces of the inner tie rod (near the boot). Unscrew the inner tie rod from the steering rack by turning counterclockwise. If equipped with a lock washer, note its orientation for reinstallation. Repeat for both sides.⚠Do not grip the inner tie rod by the threaded area where the outer tie rod attaches, as this will damage the threads.
- 8Clean and inspect steering rack threadsWith inner tie rods removed, inspect the threads on the steering rack for damage or excessive corrosion. Clean threads with a wire brush. Check the steering rack boots for tears or damage. Replace boots if compromised.
- 9Install new inner tie rod endsThread the new inner tie rod ends onto the steering rack by hand first to ensure proper thread engagement. If equipped with lock washers, install them in the correct orientation. Tighten the inner tie rods to the steering rack using adjustable pliers on the flat surfaces. Tighten securely by hand; these do not have a specified torque in the provided specifications, but should be very tight (typically 60-70 ft-lb equivalent force).
- 10Install outer tie rod ends to approximate positionThread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod first, followed by the new outer tie rod end. Thread the outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod to match your reference marks or thread count from disassembly. The goal is to get close to the original position. Do not tighten the lock nut yet.
- 11Connect outer tie rod ends to steering knucklesInsert the ball stud of each outer tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Ensure the taper seats properly. Thread the castle nut onto the ball stud by hand, then tighten to specification using a torque wrench.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 12Install new cotter pinsAfter torquing the castle nut, align the slots in the castle nut with the hole in the ball stud. If needed, tighten the nut slightly (never loosen) to align the slots. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends to secure. Repeat for both sides.⚠Never loosen the castle nut to align cotter pin holes. Only tighten further if needed for alignment.
- 13Temporarily tighten tie rod lock nutsHand-tighten the lock nuts against the outer tie rod ends, but do not torque to specification yet. These will be final-torqued after the vehicle receives a professional alignment.ℹ️Lock nuts must not be fully torqued until after alignment is performed.
- 14Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleReinstall both front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the wheels just contact the ground but still have support from the jack stands. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all cotter pins are properly installed and bent
- Confirm all fasteners are at proper torque specifications except tie rod lock nuts
- Check that steering rack boots are properly seated and not twisted
- Test steering wheel for smooth rotation lock-to-lock with engine running
Verification
- Schedule immediate professional wheel alignment (mandatory)
- After alignment is complete, have technician torque tie rod lock nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
- Test drive vehicle in safe area at low speed to verify steering response
- Verify no unusual noises from front suspension during turns
- Re-check wheel lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving
- Monitor tire wear patterns over next 500 miles to confirm proper alignment