drivetrain
Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear
for 2021 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
12
Steps
15
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure covers removal of the rear wheel hub assembly, pressing out the old bearing, pressing in a new bearing, and reinstalling the hub on a 2018-2024 Toyota Camry with 2.5L I4 engine.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Pressing operations require proper alignment and support to prevent hub or knuckle damage. Incorrect press procedures will destroy components.
⚠Axle nut requires very high torque (250 Nm). Ensure proper socket engagement to prevent rounding.
ℹ️This procedure requires a hydraulic press. Alternative methods using portable bearing press kits are possible but more time-consuming.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (10-300 Nm range)Essential
Hydraulic press or press adapter kitEssential
Bearing race driver setEssential
Socket set (10mm-32mm)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Snap ring pliersEssential
Bearing puller setEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Rear wheel bearing × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Axle nut (if staked type) × 1 — 90179-32034 or equivalent
- Cotter pin (if applicable) × 1 — Check axle nut design
- Brake caliper mounting hardware × 1 — Use OEM specification if damaged
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- If axle nut is staked type, use punch to unstake the crimped portion while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified lift points
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Clean area around hub, brake components, and suspension with wire brush to prevent contamination
Procedure
- 1Remove brake caliper and rotorRemove the two brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully lift caliper off rotor. Support caliper with wire or bungee cord to prevent stress on brake hose - do not let it hang freely. Remove brake rotor by pulling straight off hub. If rotor is stuck, use rubber mallet to tap from behind or thread M8 bolts into threaded holes to push rotor off.
- 2Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensorLocate ABS wheel speed sensor on rear knuckle or hub assembly. Disconnect electrical connector by pressing release tab. Remove ABS sensor mounting bolt and carefully extract sensor from hub. Secure sensor away from work area to prevent damage.Torque specABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
- 3Remove axle nutUsing a breaker bar and 32mm socket, remove the rear axle nut. This nut is torqued to 250 Nm and will require significant force. If the axle spins, have an assistant apply the brake or use a pry bar against the lug studs. Remove and discard the axle nut if it is the staked type. Remove cotter pin if equipped with castellated nut design.⚠Do not reuse staked axle nuts. Always install a new nut if the old one was staked.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 4Remove hub bolts from knuckleAccess the four hub mounting bolts from the rear side of the knuckle assembly. These bolts secure the hub assembly to the steering knuckle. Remove all four bolts completely. The hub assembly may now be loose but the axle will hold it in place.Torque specHub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 5Extract hub assembly from knucklePull the hub assembly off the axle shaft and away from the knuckle. The hub may require light tapping with a soft mallet if it is tight on the axle splines. Once removed from axle, pull hub assembly straight out from the back of the knuckle. If bearing is seized in knuckle, hub may separate from outer race - this is normal for bearing replacement.
- 6Remove bearing snap ringWith hub assembly on workbench, inspect the inner side of the knuckle bore. Locate the bearing retaining snap ring in the groove. Using snap ring pliers, compress or expand the snap ring (depending on type) and remove it from the knuckle. Set aside for potential reuse if in good condition.
- 7Press bearing out of hubPosition the hub assembly in hydraulic press with proper supports contacting the inner bearing race only. Do not apply pressure to outer race or hub flange. Press the hub through the bearing, which will separate the hub from the inner race. Remove hub and set aside. Then use a bearing race driver or appropriate sized socket to press the bearing races out of the knuckle bore, working from the inner side. Press evenly to prevent cocking the races.⚠Support must contact only the bearing race being pressed, never the hub flange or knuckle casting. Incorrect support placement will crack the knuckle.
- 8Clean and inspect knuckle boreThoroughly clean the bearing bore in the knuckle using a wire brush and brake cleaner. Remove all old grease, rust, and debris. Inspect the bore for scoring, cracks, or damage. Check that the snap ring groove is clean and undamaged. Measure the bore diameter if possible to verify it is within specification (consult service manual for exact dimension).
- 9Press new bearing into knuckleApply a thin film of clean wheel bearing grease to the knuckle bore (optional but recommended). Position new bearing squarely at the bore entrance with any markings or shields facing the correct direction (typically external side faces outward). Place knuckle in press and use a bearing race driver that contacts the outer race only. Press bearing in evenly until it seats fully against the internal shoulder in the knuckle bore. Do not press on inner race. Reinstall snap ring into groove.⚠Press force must be applied only to the outer bearing race. Pressing on the inner race or bearing shield will destroy the bearing immediately.
- 10Press hub into new bearingClean the hub mating surface and axle splines. Apply light coating of grease to hub splines. Position the hub into the inner race of the newly installed bearing. Using press and a driver that contacts only the inner race, press the hub into the bearing until fully seated. The hub should sit flush and rotate smoothly with slight resistance. Verify bearing rotates without binding or roughness.⚠Press force must be applied only to the inner bearing race through the hub. Never press on the hub flange or outer race during hub installation.
- 11Install hub assembly to knuckleAlign hub assembly with axle shaft and slide onto splines. Guide hub assembly into position on rear of knuckle, ensuring proper alignment of mounting bolt holes. Install all four hub mounting bolts and hand tighten. Torque hub bolts in a crisscross pattern to specification.Torque specHub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 12Install and torque axle nutInstall new axle nut (if staked type) or reuse castellated nut with new cotter pin. Thread nut onto axle by hand as far as possible. Using torque wrench and 32mm socket, torque axle nut to specification. If using staked nut, stake the nut into the axle shaft groove using punch and hammer. If using castellated nut, align cotter pin hole and install new cotter pin, bending ends securely.⚠Axle nut must be torqued to exactly 250 Nm. Under-torquing will cause bearing failure; over-torquing may damage hub or axle threads.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 13Reinstall ABS sensorClean ABS sensor tip and bore in hub with brake cleaner. Insert ABS sensor into mounting hole and install mounting bolt, torquing to specification. Reconnect electrical connector ensuring it clicks fully into place. Verify sensor sits flush and cable routing matches original position.Torque specABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
- 14Reinstall brake rotor and caliperSlide brake rotor onto hub, ensuring it sits flat against hub face. Remount brake caliper over rotor and install caliper mounting bolts, torquing to manufacturer specification (typically 65-80 Nm, verify in service manual). Remove caliper support wire or bungee cord.
- 15Install wheel and lower vehicleMount wheel onto hub and hand tighten lug nuts in star pattern. Lower vehicle until tire just contacts ground (weight not fully on wheel). Torque lug nuts to specification in star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts108 Nm (80 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to proper specifications in the order performed
- Verify ABS sensor connector is fully seated and cable is properly routed without tension
- Check that axle nut is properly staked or cotter pin is installed and bent correctly
- Pump brake pedal several times to restore proper brake pad position before moving vehicle
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in safe area and verify no abnormal noise from rear wheel bearing
- Check for proper ABS function - warning light should not illuminate during test drive
- Verify no wheel wobble or vibration at highway speeds
- Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving
- Listen for grinding, humming, or growling noises which indicate improper bearing installation
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0087Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too LowP0088Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too HighP0090Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control CircuitP0091Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit LowP0105Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO CircuitP0106MAP/BARO Pressure Circuit Range/PerformanceP0129Barometric Pressure Too LowP0190Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor CircuitP0191Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0450Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch MalfunctionP0451Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/PerformanceP0470Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →