suspension
Ball Joint - Upper
for 2021 Toyota RAV4 2.5L I4 · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.6 h
Tools
14
Steps
15
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the upper ball joint on a 2019-2024 Toyota RAV4 with the 2.5L I4 engine. The upper ball joint is integrated into the upper control arm on this vehicle.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠The upper ball joint is integrated into the upper control arm on this vehicle. The entire control arm assembly must be replaced.
⚠Do not hammer directly on the ball joint stud as this can damage steering components. Use a proper ball joint separator tool.
ℹ️Final torque of control arm bolts must be performed with vehicle weight on suspension (wheels on ground or with weight simulator).
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket (lug nuts)Essential
17mm wrench and socketEssential
14mm socketEssential
Ball joint separator tool or pickle forkEssential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Hammer
Allen key set (for sway bar link)
Cotter pin removal tool or needle nose pliersEssential
Parts
- Upper control arm with integrated ball joint × 1 — Use OEM specification (48068-42040 or equivalent)
- Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Control arm mounting bolts (if reusing shows damage) × 2 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points
- Remove front wheel on affected side
- Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak (optional but recommended)
Procedure
- 1Remove cotter pin from ball joint nutLocate the upper ball joint castle nut where it connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten the cotter pin ends with pliers and pull it out through the nut. Discard the old cotter pin.
- 2Loosen ball joint castle nutUsing a 17mm socket, loosen the upper ball joint castle nut but do not remove it completely. Leave the nut threaded on by 2-3 threads to protect the ball joint stud when using the separator tool.
- 3Separate ball joint from knucklePosition a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork between the upper control arm and steering knuckle at the ball joint. Strike the tool with a hammer or use mechanical pressure to break the taper fit. Once separated, remove the castle nut completely and lower the knuckle away from the ball joint stud.⚠If reusing the control arm boot, avoid damaging it with the separator tool. Position tool carefully to contact metal surfaces only.
- 4Support the knuckle assemblyUse a piece of wire or bungee cord to support the steering knuckle and prevent it from hanging on the brake hose or ABS sensor wire. Ensure there is no tension on flexible brake or ABS lines.
- 5Remove upper control arm mounting boltsLocate the two control arm mounting bolts at the frame rail. Using a 17mm socket and wrench, remove both bolts securing the upper control arm to the frame. Note the orientation and position of any alignment shims or washers for reinstallation. Remove the upper control arm assembly from the vehicle.
- 6Inspect and clean mounting surfacesClean the ball joint taper seat in the steering knuckle with a wire brush. Inspect for damage, scoring, or excessive wear. Clean the control arm mounting surface on the frame and inspect the mounting bolt holes. Check that alignment shims (if present) are in good condition.
- 7Install new upper control armPosition the new upper control arm assembly into the frame mounting location. Install any alignment shims or washers in their original positions. Thread in both control arm mounting bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Do not torque at this time.
- 8Connect ball joint to knuckleRemove the support from the knuckle assembly. Guide the upper ball joint stud into the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. Ensure the taper is properly seated and the stud pulls through completely. Thread on the new castle nut by hand.
- 9Torque ball joint castle nutUsing a torque wrench and 17mm socket, torque the upper ball joint castle nut to 102 Nm (75 lb-ft). Ensure one of the castle nut slots aligns with the cotter pin hole in the ball joint stud. If necessary, tighten the nut additional degrees (do not loosen) until alignment is achieved.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 10Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud hole. Bend the ends of the cotter pin outward in opposite directions to secure it. Ensure the cotter pin is properly seated and will not back out.
- 11Preliminary torque control arm boltsSnug the upper control arm mounting bolts to approximately 80-100 Nm, but do not apply final torque at this time. The vehicle weight must be on the suspension before final torquing to prevent bushing bind.
- 12Reinstall wheelInstall the wheel onto the hub and thread on all lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern with a hand wrench but do not torque at this time.
- 13Lower vehicle to apply suspension loadCarefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands until the full weight is on the suspension but the vehicle is still slightly elevated. The suspension should be at normal ride height with weight transferred through the control arm bushings.
- 14Final torque control arm mounting boltsWith vehicle weight on the suspension, use a torque wrench to tighten both upper control arm mounting bolts to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft). This prevents bushing preload and binding during suspension travel.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 15Lower vehicle and torque wheel lug nutsLower the vehicle completely to the ground and remove the jack. Using a torque wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern to ensure even seating.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification in the proper sequence
- Verify the new cotter pin is properly installed and secured
- Check that no tools or parts were left in the wheel well area
Verification
- Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while stationary to verify no binding or unusual noises
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify proper steering operation with no clunking or looseness
- After 50-100 miles of driving, re-check the ball joint castle nut and cotter pin for security
- Have a professional wheel alignment performed as control arm replacement will affect camber and caster settings