brakes
Brake Caliper - Rear
for 2021 Toyota RAV4 2.5L I4 · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.1 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear brake caliper on a 2019-2024 Toyota RAV4 with the 2.5L I4 engine, including brake fluid bleeding.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL SYSTEM: Brake system failure can result in loss of vehicle control, serious injury, or death. If you are uncertain about any step, seek professional service immediately.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands on a level, solid surface.
⚠️Brake fluid is toxic and corrosive. Avoid skin contact and eye exposure. Brake fluid damages paint - clean spills immediately with water.
⚠Do not allow brake calipers to hang by the brake hose as this can damage the hose internally. Support with wire or bungee cord.
⚠After brake work, pump the brake pedal multiple times before attempting to drive. The first pedal stroke may go to the floor.
⚠Brake fluid absorbs moisture and degrades over time. Use only fresh brake fluid from a sealed container.
ℹ️This procedure requires brake system bleeding. Air in brake lines will cause brake failure.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Socket set including 14mm and 17mmEssential
Brake line flare nut wrench or 12mm flare nut wrenchEssential
Brake bleeder kit or clear tubing and catch bottleEssential
C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool
Wire or bungee cord for caliper support
Turkey baster or brake fluid transfer pump
Penetrating oil
Brake cleaner
Thread locker (medium strength)
Parts
- Rear brake caliper assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Brake fluid banjo bolt copper washers × 2 — 90430-A0006 or equivalent
- DOT 3 brake fluid × 1 — Use Toyota genuine or DOT 3 specification
Fluids
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake firmly
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground, but do not remove
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands rated for vehicle weight at proper jacking points
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Remove approximately 1/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or fluid pump to prevent overflow when compressing caliper piston
- Inspect brake hose for cracks, bulges, or damage - replace if any defects found
- Have all tools, new parts, and fresh brake fluid ready before disconnecting brake lines
Procedure
- 1Access and support the caliperLocate the rear brake caliper. Before removing any bolts, prepare to support the caliper weight. If you plan to reuse the caliper (for pad replacement only), support it with wire or bungee cord to prevent hanging by the brake hose. For caliper replacement, you will disconnect the brake line so support is temporary.
- 2Disconnect the brake hose from caliperLocate the brake hose banjo bolt connection at the rear of the caliper. Place a drain pan beneath the connection point. Using a 12mm flare nut wrench or banjo bolt wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Immediately plug the brake hose end with a rubber cap or clean lint-free rag to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo fitting - these must be replaced with new washers.⚠Brake fluid will drain from both the hose and caliper. Have drain pan ready and minimize spills on painted surfaces.
- 3Remove caliper mounting boltsUsing a 17mm socket or wrench, remove the two caliper mounting bolts (also called slide pin bolts or caliper bolts) that secure the caliper to the bracket. These bolts are located on the inboard side of the caliper. The caliper will now be free. Carefully remove the caliper from the rotor and bracket assembly. Inspect the brake pads and shims - note their orientation if reusing.ℹ️Caliper mounting bolts may be tight. Ensure socket is fully seated to avoid rounding bolt heads.
- 4Remove caliper bracket (if replacing)If replacing the entire caliper assembly or servicing the bracket, remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket. These bolts secure the bracket to the rear knuckle and require significant torque. Remove the bracket from the knuckle. Clean the bracket mounting surface on the knuckle with brake cleaner. Inspect the bracket bolt threads and apply medium-strength threadlocker to bolt threads before reinstallation if recommended.ℹ️Bracket bolts are very tight (100 Nm). Use a breaker bar if necessary and ensure wrench is properly seated.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 5Prepare the new caliperRemove the new caliper from packaging. Verify the caliper piston is fully retracted. If not, carefully compress the piston using a C-clamp or brake piston tool - ensure piston goes in straight without cocking. Remove any protective caps or plugs from the brake hose port on the new caliper. Verify the bleeder screw moves freely (loosen 1/4 turn then retighten) - this confirms it is not seized.ℹ️Some new calipers come with brake pads pre-installed. Verify compatibility with your rotor and brake system specifications.
- 6Install caliper bracket (if removed)Position the caliper bracket onto the rear knuckle mounting surface. Install the two bracket bolts and hand-tighten. Using a torque wrench and 17mm socket, torque the bracket bolts to specification in a cross pattern. Verify the bracket is seated flush against the knuckle.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 7Install brake pads and caliperIf brake pads were removed, install the inner and outer brake pads into the caliper bracket with anti-rattle shims in correct orientation. Apply a thin coating of high-temperature brake grease to pad slide points on bracket (not on friction surfaces). Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and pads, aligning the caliper mounting bolt holes with the bracket slide pins.
- 8Install and torque caliper mounting boltsInsert the two caliper mounting bolts through the caliper into the bracket slide pins. Hand-thread both bolts first to ensure proper alignment. Using a torque wrench and 17mm socket, torque both caliper mounting bolts to specification. Verify the caliper moves freely on the slide pins.
- 9Connect brake hose to caliperInstall one NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo fitting of the brake hose. Position the banjo fitting into the port on the caliper with the hose properly routed (not twisted or kinked). Install the second NEW copper washer onto the banjo bolt from the opposite side. Thread the banjo bolt through the washers and into the caliper port. Hand-tighten first, then torque to specification using a torque wrench. Verify the brake hose has clearance and will not contact suspension components through full wheel travel.⚠Never reuse old copper crush washers. Failure to use new washers will result in brake fluid leaks and potential brake system failure.
- 10Bleed the rear brake caliperAttach clear brake bleeding tubing to the bleeder screw on the caliper. Submerge the other end in a clear container partially filled with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 5-6 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 turn while assistant maintains pedal pressure - fluid and air will flow into the tube. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the tubing and only clean fluid flows. Monitor the master cylinder reservoir constantly and refill as needed - never let it run dry. Torque the bleeder screw to specification.⚠️If the master cylinder reservoir runs empty during bleeding, air will enter the system requiring complete brake system bleeding. Check fluid level after every 2-3 bleeder cycles.⚠The bleeder screw is brass and easily damaged. Do not exceed torque specification or it may strip or break.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 11Final brake system checkTop off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Wipe all components clean of brake fluid. Inspect all connections for leaks. Pump the brake pedal repeatedly (engine off) until firm resistance is felt - the pedal should not go to the floor. If pedal remains soft, repeat bleeding process.⚠️A soft or spongy brake pedal indicates air in the system. Do not drive the vehicle until a firm pedal is achieved.
- 12Reinstall wheel and testReinstall the rear wheel onto the hub. Install all lug nuts and hand-tighten in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (wheel cannot spin). Using a torque wrench, torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.
Reassembly
- Ensure all brake line connections are tight and show no signs of leakage
- Verify brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir is at MAX line
- Confirm brake pedal is firm and does not sink slowly to floor when held under pressure
- Double-check all torque specifications have been met, especially caliper bolts and wheel lug nuts
Verification
- With engine off, pump brake pedal 10-15 times - pedal should feel firm and consistent. First pump may be slightly soft but should firm up quickly
- Start engine (power brake assist active) and verify pedal height is normal and firm
- Inspect all brake connections for fluid leaks while assistant applies firm brake pressure for 30 seconds
- Check brake fluid level in reservoir - should be at MAX line
- Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area: test brakes at 5-10 mph to verify proper operation and no pulling to one side
- After test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks and verify brake fluid level has not dropped
- Verify wheel lug nuts are properly torqued after first 50-100 miles of driving
- CRITICAL: If brake pedal feels soft, spongy, or travels too far, or if vehicle pulls to one side during braking, DO NOT DRIVE - repeat bleeding procedure or seek professional service immediately