Complete replacement of all brake lines from master cylinder to all four wheels, including hard lines and flexible hoses. Critical safety procedure requiring proper flaring, routing, and bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Complete brake line kit for 2019-2024 RAV4 FWD × 1 — Use OEM specification or pre-bent kit specific to FWD model
• Brake line clips and retainers × 1 — Included with line kit or order separately
• Copper crush washers for banjo fittings (if applicable) × 4 — 90430-12031 or equivalent
• Brake fluid DOT 3 × 2 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 2 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake firmly. Place wheel chocks behind and in front of rear wheels.
2. Verify you have a complete brake line kit with all necessary fittings, or materials to fabricate lines with proper double-flare tool.
3. Take detailed photos of existing brake line routing from multiple angles before removal, documenting every clip, bracket, and routing point.
4. Open brake fluid reservoir and use turkey baster or fluid extractor to remove as much old fluid as possible to minimize spillage during line removal.
5. Lift entire vehicle safely using floor jack and support on four jack stands at designated jacking points. Ensure vehicle is stable before working underneath.
6. Remove all four wheels to access brake calipers and flexible hoses.
7. Spray all brake line fittings with penetrating oil and allow 15-30 minutes to soak before attempting removal.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document and disconnect master cylinder lines
   Working from under the hood, identify the two output lines from the master cylinder (one feeds front brakes, one feeds rear). Use masking tape to label each line clearly. Using appropriate flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the two brake line fittings from the master cylinder. Immediately plug the master cylinder ports with clean plugs to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Cap the removed lines as well. Have drain pan positioned to catch fluid.
2. 2

   Remove front flexible brake hoses
   At each front wheel, locate the flexible brake hose connection to the rigid line (typically near the strut). Use flare nut wrench on the hard line side while holding the hose fitting with another wrench to prevent twisting. Once disconnected from hard line, remove the banjo bolt or hose fitting at the caliper end. Note the position of any copper crush washers. Cap all open ports immediately. Remove the hose bracket retaining clip or bolt from the strut.
3. 3

   Remove rear flexible brake hoses
   At each rear wheel, disconnect the flexible hose from the hard line using flare nut wrench on the chassis-mounted junction. Then remove the banjo bolt or fitting at the caliper/wheel cylinder. Note exact routing and any brackets. Cap all openings immediately to prevent contamination and fluid loss.
4. 4

   Remove hard lines from chassis - front section
   Working from front to rear, trace the hard brake lines along the chassis rail. Remove all retaining clips and brackets holding lines to the chassis and crossmembers. Use line wrenches to disconnect junction fittings. The front section typically runs from master cylinder area back to the rear axle area with junctions for left/right distribution. Remove bracket bolts as needed. Keep track of all mounting hardware and note exact clip positions using your reference photos.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove hard lines from chassis - rear section
   Continue removing the rear brake lines that run along the rear axle beam or trailing arms to each rear wheel. These lines connect to the flexible hoses you already removed. Remove all clips and brackets. Pay special attention to routing around the fuel tank, exhaust hangers, and suspension components. Mark the position of any spacers or grommets in mounting clips.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Prepare and install new hard lines - master cylinder to junction
   If using pre-bent line kit, verify each line matches the old line length and bend configuration before installation. If fabricating lines, measure carefully and create double flares on all ends using proper ISO/DIN flaring tool. Begin installation at master cylinder, routing the main lines from master cylinder back toward the front-to-rear distribution junction. Secure lines in all original clip positions but do not fully tighten fittings yet. Ensure no contact with exhaust, suspension, or steering components through full range of motion.
7. 7

   Install hard lines - front wheel distribution
   Install the hard lines that run from the main distribution junction to each front wheel connection point where flexible hoses will attach. Route exactly as factory configuration, installing all clips and brackets. Verify adequate clearance from CV axles, steering components, and subframe edges. Hand-tighten all fittings initially.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Install hard lines - rear wheel distribution
   Install hard brake lines running to each rear wheel connection point. Route along rear axle beam or chassis rails exactly as factory specification. Ensure lines have adequate slack for suspension travel but do not hang low enough to contact ground or road debris. Install all clips and brackets. Verify no contact with exhaust system, fuel tank, or suspension through full compression and extension cycle.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install new flexible brake hoses - front
   Install new front flexible brake hoses, ensuring they are not twisted. The hose should have natural curvature without strain. Install bracket to strut first if applicable. Connect hose to hard line junction using new copper crush washers if banjo-style, ensuring proper sealing surface. Then connect to caliper using new crush washers, torquing banjo bolts per specification. If using threaded fittings instead of banjos, hand-tighten first.
   Torque spec

   Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install new flexible brake hoses - rear
    Install rear flexible brake hoses with same attention to routing and twist-free installation. Connect to chassis hard line junction and to caliper/wheel cylinder. Use new copper crush washers on banjo connections. Verify hoses have adequate length for full suspension travel without stretching or kinking.
    Torque spec

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Torque all brake line fittings and connections
    Working systematically from master cylinder rearward, torque all brake line fittings using flare nut wrenches. Standard brake line fittings are typically torqued to 15-18 Nm (11-13 lb-ft) though this is NOT in your provided torque spec list - consult factory service manual for exact values. Torque all bracket bolts securing line clips to chassis. Do not over-torque soft metal brake line fittings as this will damage the flare.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Connect lines to master cylinder
    Remove plugs from master cylinder ports and new brake lines. Connect the two main brake lines to master cylinder outputs, ensuring correct line goes to correct port (typically front/rear split or diagonal split depending on system design - verify with service manual). Torque master cylinder line fittings per specification. Do not cross-thread the fittings.
13. 13

    Fill brake fluid reservoir and begin bleeding sequence
    Fill brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from sealed container. Begin brake bleeding procedure starting with wheel furthest from master cylinder (typically right rear), then left rear, right front, left front. Use pressure bleeder or two-person manual bleeding method. Attach clear tube to bleeder screw with other end submerged in clean brake fluid in collection container. Open bleeder screw and allow fluid/air to flow until stream is bubble-free.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Complete brake system bleeding
    Continue bleeding each wheel in sequence until all air is removed from system. Monitor master cylinder reservoir constantly and never let it run dry or air will re-enter system. Pump brake pedal several times between each bleeder opening. Fluid should flow clear without air bubbles. After bleeding all four corners, repeat the entire sequence one more time to ensure complete air removal. Check all fittings for leaks while helper applies firm brake pedal pressure.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Pressure test and final inspection
    With vehicle still safely supported, have assistant apply firm, steady pressure to brake pedal (50-60 lbs force) and hold for 60 seconds. Inspect every single brake line fitting, junction, and connection for any sign of fluid seepage. Pedal should remain firm and not sink. Check all line routing again for proper clearance. Verify all clips and brackets are secure. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line. Reinstall all four wheels and torque lug nuts in star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure brake fluid reservoir is filled to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid.
2. Verify all brake line fittings are torqued and show no signs of leakage.
3. Confirm all brake line clips and brackets are installed and secure.
4. Double-check that no brake lines contact exhaust, suspension, or rotating components.
5. All wheels must be reinstalled and torqued to specification before lowering vehicle.

Verification

• Before moving vehicle, pump brake pedal 20-30 times to build pressure. Pedal should become firm and stay firm without sinking when held under pressure.
• Perform static brake test: With engine running and vehicle in park/neutral, apply maximum brake pedal force and verify pedal does not sink to floor. Check all fittings again for leaks.
• Perform low-speed brake test in safe area: At 5-10 mph, apply brakes firmly. Vehicle should stop smoothly without pulling to either side. Test repeatedly from both forward and reverse.
• Road test at progressively higher speeds in safe area with no traffic: Test braking from 20 mph, then 30 mph, then 40 mph. Braking should be smooth, straight, and proportional to pedal input.
• After first 50 miles of driving, re-inspect all brake line fittings, junctions, and flexible hoses for any signs of leakage or seepage. Re-torque any fittings if needed.
• Check brake fluid level after first drive cycle and top off if necessary. Fluid level should stabilize after initial settling period.
• If brake pedal feels spongy, brake warning light illuminates, or any fluid leakage is observed, stop driving immediately and re-inspect entire brake system.

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