This procedure covers disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and rebuild of front brake calipers on a 2019-2024 Toyota RAV4 2.5L I4 FWD, including piston seal replacement and slide pin servicing.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper rebuild kit (includes seals, dust boots, slide pin boots) × 2 — Use OEM Toyota specification or quality aftermarket
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) × 1 — Toyota Part #08887-01206 or equivalent
• Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
• Brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) × 2 — CRC Brakleen or equivalent
• Shop towels or lint-free rags × 1 — Use clean, lint-free material

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface, engage parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
2. Remove approximately 1/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or fluid transfer pump - dispose of old fluid properly
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points
5. Remove both front wheels completely
6. Verify you have all rebuild kit components for both calipers before beginning disassembly
7. Have clean workspace prepared with shop towels, parts trays, and all tools within reach

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (14mm) that secure the caliper to the bracket. Support the caliper weight - do not allow it to hang by the brake hose. Use safety wire or mechanic's wire to hang the caliper from the suspension to prevent hose damage. Work on one side at a time.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose
   Place a drain pan underneath the caliper. Using a 17mm wrench, disconnect the brake hose banjo bolt from the caliper body. Remove the two copper crush washers and discard them (new washers should be in rebuild kit). Immediately plug the brake hose end with a rubber cap or tape to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Allow caliper to drain completely into pan.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drip - have drain pan positioned before loosening banjo bolt
3. 3

   Disassemble caliper - remove pads and hardware
   Take caliper to clean workbench. Remove brake pads (if still installed), anti-rattle clips, pad shims, and any remaining hardware. Note orientation and position of all components for reassembly reference. Photograph if necessary. Clean exterior of caliper with brake cleaner and wipe dry.
4. 4

   Remove caliper piston
   Position caliper with piston facing up over a clean shop towel. Using compressed air at LOW pressure (20-30 PSI maximum), apply air to the brake hose inlet port. The piston will gradually move outward - control it with your hand to prevent it from popping out. Once piston is free, remove it completely and set aside on clean surface. NEVER direct air at high pressure or allow piston to eject uncontrolled.
   ⚠️Use only low-pressure compressed air (20-30 PSI). Keep fingers clear of piston path. High pressure or uncontrolled ejection can cause serious injury.
5. 5

   Remove piston seal and dust boot
   Using a non-metallic seal pick (or wooden/plastic tool), carefully pry out the piston dust boot from its groove in the caliper bore. Next, remove the internal piston seal from the groove inside the caliper bore. Work carefully to avoid scratching or gouging the bore surface. Discard old seals and boot.
   ⚠Avoid using metal tools that could scratch the precision-machined caliper bore. Any scratches will cause seal leaks.
6. 6

   Clean and inspect caliper bore and piston
   Thoroughly clean the caliper bore and piston with brake cleaner and lint-free shop towels. Inspect the caliper bore for scoring, pitting, corrosion, or rust beyond light surface oxidation. Inspect piston surface for chrome peeling, pitting, scoring, or deep scratches. Inspect piston seal groove inside bore for damage. If any significant damage is found, the caliper must be replaced - do not attempt to rebuild. Light surface rust in bore can be cleaned with crocus cloth, but any pitting requires replacement.
   ⚠Critical inspection point: Any bore or piston damage beyond very light surface wear requires complete caliper replacement. Compromised sealing surfaces will cause brake fluid leaks and brake failure.
7. 7

   Remove and service slide pins
   Remove the caliper bracket from the vehicle by removing the two caliper bracket bolts (17mm or 19mm, depending on specific model year). Remove both slide pins from the bracket by pulling them out. Remove old slide pin boots. Clean slide pins thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect pins for corrosion, wear, or bending. Check that pins slide smoothly in their bores. Clean slide pin bores in bracket with brake cleaner and dry completely.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Install new seals in caliper
   Ensure caliper bore is completely clean and dry. Lubricate the new piston seal lightly with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Install the new piston seal into the groove inside the caliper bore, ensuring it seats completely around the entire circumference without twisting. Verify seal is properly seated in its groove with no high spots or gaps.
   ⚠Do not use any lubricant other than clean brake fluid on internal caliper seals. Silicone grease is only for slide pins.
9. 9

   Install piston and dust boot
   Lubricate the new dust boot and piston outer surface lightly with clean brake fluid. Install the dust boot into the outer groove of the caliper (consult rebuild kit instructions for proper orientation - some boots install on piston first). Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid and carefully insert it into the caliper bore, rotating slightly to avoid damaging the seal. Push piston in by hand until it bottoms out in the bore. Seat the dust boot lip into its groove on the piston (or caliper, depending on design), ensuring it is properly positioned all around.
10. 10

    Reassemble slide pins and bracket
    Install new slide pin boots onto the caliper bracket bores. Coat slide pins generously with silicone brake grease (DO NOT use other lubricants). Insert slide pins into bracket bores, ensuring boots seat properly. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to caliper bracket bolt threads. Install bracket back onto steering knuckle and torque bracket bolts to specification.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper and connect brake hose
    Position rebuilt caliper over bracket. Using NEW copper crush washers (from rebuild kit), connect brake hose to caliper with banjo bolt. Torque banjo bolt to 27 Nm (20 lb-ft) if using mounting bolt specification (verify with service manual - banjo bolts typically 27-35 Nm for this vehicle). Install caliper onto bracket and apply silicone brake grease to slide pin bolt threads. Torque slide pin bolts to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1-11 for the opposite front caliper. Work methodically and maintain the same attention to cleanliness and inspection standards. Ensure both calipers are fully reassembled before proceeding to bleeding.
13. 13

    Bleed brake system
    Fill master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Starting with the caliper furthest from master cylinder (passenger side on LHD vehicles), attach clear bleeding tube to bleeder screw and submerge other end in container with clean brake fluid. Have helper pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open bleeder screw 1/2 turn, allow fluid and air to escape until stream is solid, then close bleeder before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in tube. Torque bleeder screw to specification. Repeat for driver side. Check master cylinder level frequently and never let it run dry.
    ⚠️Never allow master cylinder to run empty during bleeding - this introduces air into ABS system requiring specialized scan tool bleeding.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Install wheels and perform final torque
    Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-tighten all lug nuts in star pattern. Lower vehicle until wheels just touch ground but most weight still on jack stands. Torque lug nuts to specification in star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Torque lug nuts again in star pattern to verify proper torque.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all caliper bracket bolts, slide pin bolts, and wheel lug nuts are torqued to specification
2. Check master cylinder fluid level and top off to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid
3. Verify no brake fluid leaks at caliper banjo bolt connections or bleeder screws
4. Ensure brake pedal feels firm with no sponginess - if pedal is soft, rebleed system
5. Clean any spilled brake fluid from wheels, suspension components, and body panels immediately

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal several times - pedal should build pressure and feel firm, not spongy
• Start engine and verify brake warning light is off on instrument cluster
• With vehicle still on jack stands or stationary, verify no fluid leaks at calipers, hoses, or bleeder screws
• Perform careful test drive in safe area at low speed (under 15 mph) to verify brakes engage smoothly and evenly with no pulling to either side
• Perform several moderate brake applications from 25-30 mph to seat pads and verify proper operation
• After test drive, recheck all torque specifications and inspect for any fluid leaks
• Check brake fluid level - top off if needed (slight drop is normal as pads seat)
• CRITICAL: Brakes may have reduced effectiveness for first 100-200 miles while pads and rotors mate - drive cautiously and allow extra stopping distance during break-in period

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