brakes
Brake Lines - Complete Set
for 1966 Chevrolet Corvette 327ci V8 · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
6.6 h
Tools
15
Steps
15
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Complete replacement of all brake lines from master cylinder to all four wheels, including front and rear hard lines and flexible hoses.
Warnings
⚠️Brake system failure can result in complete loss of braking ability, causing serious injury or death. If you are not completely confident in your ability to fabricate, flare, and install brake lines to OEM standards, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never drive a vehicle with improperly installed, kinked, or leaking brake lines. Test brakes thoroughly in a safe area before returning to normal driving.
⚠️Brake fluid is extremely corrosive to paint. Cover fenders and painted surfaces. Flush immediately with water if contact occurs.
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Brake fluid absorbs moisture and should be used from sealed containers only. Dispose of old brake fluid properly.
⚠Double flares are required for brake lines. Single flares are not safe and will fail under pressure.
ℹ️This vehicle uses a dual master cylinder system with separate front and rear circuits. All lines must be replaced as a complete set for this procedure.
Tools required
Tubing cutter or hacksawEssential
Tube flaring tool (double flare)Essential
Tubing benderEssential
Line wrenches (3/16", 1/4", 3/8")Essential
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (4)Essential
Wheel chocksEssential
Brake bleeder wrenchEssential
Clear tubing for bleedingEssential
Catch pansEssential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Tube bending spring (3/16")
Pressure bleeder
Torque wrench
Parts
- Complete brake line kit (3/16" steel tubing pre-bent or straight stock) × 1 — Use OEM specification or aftermarket complete kit
- Front brake hoses (left and right) × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Rear brake hose × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Brake line clips and retainers × 1 — Assorted frame mount clips
- Brake line fittings (inverted flare) × 1 — 3/16" and 1/4" assortment
Fluids
- DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 2 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and set parking brake firmly
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen all four wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise vehicle and support securely on four jack stands at frame rail points
- Remove all four wheels
- Place drain pans under master cylinder and all four wheel cylinders/calipers
- If working with pre-bent line kit, lay out all lines and verify fitment before beginning removal
- If fabricating lines from straight stock, take detailed photographs and measurements of existing line routing before removal
- Apply penetrating oil to all brake line fittings at least 30 minutes before attempting removal
Procedure
- 1Drain master cylinder reservoirUsing a turkey baster or fluid transfer pump, remove as much brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder reservoir. Wipe up any spills immediately to prevent paint damage. This minimizes fluid loss during line removal.
- 2Disconnect lines at master cylinderLocate the two brake line fittings at the master cylinder (front and rear circuits). Using appropriate line wrenches, carefully loosen and remove both lines from the master cylinder ports. The front line typically feeds the front disc brakes, and the rear line feeds the rear drum brakes through a distribution block. Cap or plug the master cylinder ports immediately to prevent contamination. Allow remaining fluid to drain into catch pan.
- 3Remove front brake linesStarting at the master cylinder, trace the front brake line to the distribution block on the frame. Disconnect the line at the distribution block using a line wrench. Follow each line forward to where it connects to the flexible brake hose near each front wheel. Disconnect the hard line from the flexible hose at each front wheel location. Remove all frame clips and retainers securing the front lines to the frame and body. Extract the complete front hard line assembly. Note routing, clip locations, and clearances from exhaust, suspension, and steering components.
- 4Remove front flexible brake hosesAt each front wheel, locate where the flexible brake hose connects to the caliper. Using a line wrench, disconnect the hose from the caliper. Remove the bracket bolt securing the flexible hose to the frame or suspension component. Remove both front flexible hoses completely. Inspect caliper ports for damage or corrosion.
- 5Remove rear brake lineFrom the master cylinder distribution point, trace the rear brake line along the frame toward the rear axle. Disconnect the line at the distribution block using a line wrench. Follow the line rearward to where it connects to the rear flexible hose or distribution block on the rear axle housing. Disconnect the hard line at this junction. Remove all frame clips securing the rear line. Extract the complete rear hard line assembly, noting routing and clip positions.
- 6Remove rear flexible hose and axle linesDisconnect the flexible brake hose from the frame-mounted bracket. At the rear axle housing, disconnect the hose from the axle-mounted distribution block or tee fitting. Remove the flexible hose. If present, disconnect the hard lines running along the rear axle housing to each wheel cylinder. Remove the retaining clips securing lines to the axle housing. Extract all rear axle lines completely.
- 7Clean all fittings and mounting pointsUsing a wire brush, clean all fittings at the master cylinder, distribution blocks, calipers, and wheel cylinders. Remove rust, old thread sealant, and debris. Inspect all threaded ports for damage. Chase threads with appropriate tap if necessary. Clean all frame-mounted clip locations. This ensures proper sealing and torque values when installing new lines.
- 8Install new front brake linesIf using pre-bent lines, route the new front brake lines along the original path, ensuring proper clearance from exhaust, suspension, and steering components. If fabricating from straight stock, bend tubing carefully using a tubing bender to match original routing. Maintain minimum 2-inch clearance from exhaust components and 1-inch clearance from suspension travel paths. Install frame clips loosely to allow final positioning adjustment. Do not fully tighten fittings yet.
- 9Install new front flexible brake hosesInstall new front flexible brake hoses at each front wheel. Mount the hose bracket to the frame or suspension mount. Connect the hose to the hard line fitting, ensuring the hose is not twisted. The hose should hang naturally without tension or kinking throughout full suspension travel and steering range. Tighten the bracket bolt securely. Snug the line-to-hose fitting but do not fully tighten yet.
- 10Connect front lines to calipersConnect the flexible hoses to the front brake calipers. Verify the hose is not twisted and allows full suspension and steering movement without binding or stretching. Tighten the caliper fitting snugly but do not fully torque yet.
- 11Install new rear brake lineRoute the new rear brake hard line from the master cylinder distribution point along the frame to the rear axle area. Follow the original routing path, maintaining proper clearances from exhaust (minimum 2 inches) and suspension components. Install frame clips loosely. If fabricating from straight stock, ensure all bends are smooth without kinks and use a bending spring or tubing bender to prevent collapse.
- 12Install rear flexible hose and axle linesInstall the rear flexible brake hose from the frame hard line to the rear axle distribution block. Ensure the hose has adequate length to accommodate full axle travel without stretching or binding. Mount any brackets securely. Install the hard lines along the rear axle housing to each wheel cylinder, securing with retaining clips. Verify all lines are clear of rotating components and axle shafts.
- 13Final tightening of all fittingsStarting at the master cylinder and working toward each wheel, tighten all brake line fittings using line wrenches. Tighten inverted flare fittings firmly, typically 10-12 ft-lbs for 3/16" lines and 12-15 ft-lbs for 1/4" lines, but avoid overtightening which can damage the flare. Tighten flexible hose-to-caliper fittings to 18-20 ft-lbs. Secure all frame clips and verify no lines contact moving or hot components. Check each connection visually for proper flare seating.
- 14Bleed brake systemFill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Bleed the brake system in the correct sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, left front (farthest from master cylinder to nearest). At each wheel, attach clear tubing to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw until fluid flows and air bubbles cease, then close the bleeder before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream. Keep the master cylinder reservoir full throughout the process. Alternatively, use a pressure bleeder following manufacturer instructions. Repeat the entire sequence a second time to ensure all air is purged.
- 15Final inspection and leak testWith the vehicle still on jack stands, have an assistant firmly apply the brake pedal while you inspect every fitting, connection, and line for leaks. The pedal should feel firm and hold pressure without sinking. Check for fluid seepage at all fittings, particularly at flare connections and flexible hose junctions. Wipe all fittings dry and recheck after 10 pedal applications. Inspect all lines for contact with frame, suspension, exhaust, or other components throughout the full range of suspension and steering travel. Make any necessary adjustments to line routing or clip positions.
Reassembly
- Reinstall all four wheels and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern
- Lower vehicle to ground and torque lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs
- Top off master cylinder reservoir to proper level with DOT 4 brake fluid
- Verify brake pedal is firm and does not sink when held under pressure
- Clean any brake fluid from painted surfaces immediately
Verification
- Start engine and verify brake pedal firmness with power assist active
- Pedal should be firm within upper half of travel and should not sink when held under constant pressure for 30 seconds
- Perform brake tests in safe area: test brakes at 5 mph, 10 mph, and 20 mph to verify proper operation
- Check for pulling to one side during braking which indicates air in system or other issues
- After test drive, re-inspect all fittings and connections for leaks with vehicle on jack stands
- Verify no brake lines contact moving components by having an assistant turn steering lock-to-lock while you observe clearances
- Check brake fluid level in reservoir after test drive and top off if needed
- Pump brakes firmly 20-30 times and re-inspect all connections for any seepage
- Plan to re-inspect all connections after 50 miles and again after 200 miles of driving